We just purchased a '69 over the weekend. It's a 170 c.i. 3 spd and it needs a clutch. From the research I've done, it appears there's two different clutch options for the 6 cyl? Any comments on which I would need for this setup? Also, anyone had good or bad luck with a particular brand? Thanks.
Community
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
Fuel Tank Access Plate
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
Another clutch question...
- Thread starter jamiebraz
- Start date
ahansen_1985
Bronco Guru
Really good luck w the LUK gold series
1966 bronco, almost nothing factory
1966 bronco, almost nothing factory
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 51,622
The '69 might have the more common squarish-shaped boot over the clutch fork. Check yours for type and condition. Might as well replace it while you're in there.
When you have the bell housing off, make absolutely sure that the fork pivot bracket is still tightly riveted to the bell housing. I'm not sure if there were two types used during '69, but the rectangular one that the spring clip on the back of the fork slips over is prone to braking after so many years. And sometimes just working loose on it's rivets.
Definitely resurface the flywheel. Even if it looks good.
Replace the pilot bearing too. Without question.
Inspect for oil (gear lube) leaking out of the front snout (bearing retainer) of the transmission. If leaking, it's a quick & inexpensive fix.
If they used two types of clutches, it was likely to be the 10 or 11 inch size differences. Hopefully you have the 11" which is more desirable in a truck anyway. Even with a small-ish engine.
Are you going to do it yourself, or have it done? If yourself, make sure that before you remove the transfer case from the back of the transmission you lock the shift arms in gear First gear with a zip tie. There is a special metal brace/tool that was available back then, or that you could make based on instructions in the manuals (which are good to have at this point, owning a 44 year old truck!), but a strong zip-tie should do the deed pretty good I would think.
This is a very IMPORTANT step by the way. It keeps the main tailshaft from pulling out far enough to drop the roller bearings to the bottom of the trans. Doing that is a good excuse for a trans rebuild, but it's also a nice thing to avoid completely if you're not into rebuilding right now.
There is a proper sequence for adjusting the clutch afterwards. It's pretty simple and straightforward, but we'll leave that until later.
I think that's it. There was something else that crossed my mind, but it flew right back out as I was typing. Hate it when that happens...
Good luck. A new clutch is a beautiful thing.
Oh, and what makes you think it needs a new one now? What symptoms?
Oh again... And welcome to CB too by the way!
Paul
When you have the bell housing off, make absolutely sure that the fork pivot bracket is still tightly riveted to the bell housing. I'm not sure if there were two types used during '69, but the rectangular one that the spring clip on the back of the fork slips over is prone to braking after so many years. And sometimes just working loose on it's rivets.
Definitely resurface the flywheel. Even if it looks good.
Replace the pilot bearing too. Without question.
Inspect for oil (gear lube) leaking out of the front snout (bearing retainer) of the transmission. If leaking, it's a quick & inexpensive fix.
If they used two types of clutches, it was likely to be the 10 or 11 inch size differences. Hopefully you have the 11" which is more desirable in a truck anyway. Even with a small-ish engine.
Are you going to do it yourself, or have it done? If yourself, make sure that before you remove the transfer case from the back of the transmission you lock the shift arms in gear First gear with a zip tie. There is a special metal brace/tool that was available back then, or that you could make based on instructions in the manuals (which are good to have at this point, owning a 44 year old truck!), but a strong zip-tie should do the deed pretty good I would think.
This is a very IMPORTANT step by the way. It keeps the main tailshaft from pulling out far enough to drop the roller bearings to the bottom of the trans. Doing that is a good excuse for a trans rebuild, but it's also a nice thing to avoid completely if you're not into rebuilding right now.
There is a proper sequence for adjusting the clutch afterwards. It's pretty simple and straightforward, but we'll leave that until later.
I think that's it. There was something else that crossed my mind, but it flew right back out as I was typing. Hate it when that happens...
Good luck. A new clutch is a beautiful thing.
Oh, and what makes you think it needs a new one now? What symptoms?
Oh again... And welcome to CB too by the way!
Paul
Tedster100
Chairman of the Bored
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2010
- Messages
- 1,762
I just put a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch on my 302. I had been running a new clutch and pressure plate from Autozone and only had about 2000 miles on it. Worked good but chattered if you jumped on it. Put the centerforce on when I installed a new trans and the difference is night and day! I would recommend the centerforce and a new flywheel or get your flywheel turned.
