Another one bites the dust.. :( alum...

[nvrstuk]

4th one... look close as it seems like it's coming from the core to tank seam. All 3 other failures were tank to core seam failures also.

I got 3 replaced on warranty & they are done with that.

So am I, going back to copper/brass. I had a Griffin that was stocked at all large auto retailers like Summit, Jegs, Speed... etc, etc. Thought I had quick access to a replacement in case a stick went thru it on a trip but I can't find anything OE that is a direct replacement and my tube frt end is built around this-literally.

US Radiator is what I'm looking at now. Any other good builders?

I have looked thru 8 yrs of Ford cars/trucks since I have an Exploder hose setup and nothing OE so far will fit.

 

[Yeller]

A seam failure I’d fix, my debacle was core to tube failures, so far so good, been close to a year since the last one. I’m with you, another issue and I will find an OEM one that fits. Mounting was a big part of my issues, I know, so I didn’t even try to warrantee them.

 

[toddz69]

4th one... look close as it seems like it's coming from the core to tank seam. All 3 other failures were tank to core seam failures also.

I got 3 replaced on warranty & they are done with that.

So am I, going back to copper/brass. I had a Griffin that was stocked at all large auto retailers like Summit, Jegs, Speed... etc, etc. Thought I had quick access to a replacement in case a stick went thru it on a trip but I can't find anything OE that is a direct replacement and my tube frt end is built around this-literally.

US Radiator is what I'm looking at now. Any other good builders?

I have looked thru 8 yrs of Ford cars/trucks since I have an Exploder hose setup and nothing OE so far will fit.

Can you say what brand?

Todd Z.

 

[nvrstuk]

A seam failure I’d fix, my debacle was core to tube failures, so far so good, been close to a year since the last one. I’m with you, another issue and I will find an OEM one that fits. Mounting was a big part of my issues, I know, so I didn’t even try to warrantee them.

look really close at the 4 second video. After about the 3rd timeI watched it, I noticed a small horizontal line next to where I thought the leak was. It looks like it's coming from the core to tube and then spraying horizontally from the DS to the PS across the weld.

The spray/line starts on the right and continues to the left- least that's what I see. Look right at the row between the top two rows

Let me know. All of these radiators leaked at the core to tank seam, different spots, but- everytime.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yeah, TZ I can, was going to text and tell ya since you had a few issues with alum over the years. Guess I get to buy a $950 radiator. I still haven't figured out why my desktop can't upload a video (here on CB only).

Griffin

 

[Soylent]

Yeah, TZ I can, was going to text and tell ya since you had a few issues with alum over the years. Guess I get to buy a $950 radiator. I still haven't figured out why my desktop can't upload a video (here on CB only).

Griffin

Why $950? Can’t you get a good copper/brass for $400? Or do you need something well above the 3 core factory replacement? I may be in the market soon and am not enthusiastic about the aluminum ones.

 

[nvrstuk]

I need something above the 3 core factory replacement. I need 420 sq in of surface area or close to it for cooling. I have a few extra hp to cool.

 

[bronco italiano]

Are you having one built?

 

[nvrstuk]

I sure hope I can find one closer to $5-600 but it's not looking good. Main reason I went with the setup I did was:

1- will it cool my setup

2- will it fit? I made my tube front end to fit

3- are replacements available asap? Extremely important to me is when I'm using my rig a thousand miles from home and maybe a stick protrudes thru the grill and ruins my radiator I don't have to wait 4-8 weeks for a replacement ruining a trip.

 

[nvrstuk]

Are you having one built?

I hope not. I really want something that can be replaced in a day or two if/when needed. Reversed radiator hose location adds a bit to the search... I'm going thru one year at a time on every Make & model on US Radiators & others (custom but carried in stock for generic replacements) websites... time suck but... calling tomorrow.

Just driving now with the cap on loose so I can drive it all I want w/o pressure to keep leakage to essentially nothing.

 

[Shimmy]

4th one!! this makes me feel better about sticking with my oe one

 

[nvrstuk]

4th one!! this makes me feel better about sticking with my oe one

For sure! If it's OE it's 50 yrs old but the quality of stuff is disheartening.

I have heard nothing but good about US Radiator so unless I hear other recommendations that's who I'm thinking of going with at this time.

 

[bronco italiano]

Is there something wrong with WH Copper/brass radiators?
There is a 2nd gen radiator builder in Stockton named James Fortune at West Lane Radiator.
He rebuilds my tractor core radiator every 5 years
But as we all know it won't be cheap, but it will be right.
He probably knows of someone closer to you that builds radiators, true craftsmen are getting harder/harder to find.

 

[ba123]

Brian, if your stuff is built around that radiator, I'd find a radiator shop and have them do whatever they need to do to the one you have, or make you a new one that's the same setup.

Looks like there are at least THREE in Yakima. A little drive might be easier than shipping.

After 3 of those already, I'd bet you'd be happier just finding a shop that can fix or make you what you want then trying and trying multiple rads until you eventually go through the same thing again.

 

[nvrstuk]

Is there something wrong with WH Copper/brass radiators?
There is a 2nd gen radiator builder in Stockton named James Fortune at West Lane Radiator.
He rebuilds my tractor core radiator every 5 years
But as we all know it won't be cheap, but it will be right.
He probably knows of someone closer to you that builds radiators, true craftsmen are getting harder/harder to find.

Stock radiator is 361sqin. Current one is 403. My old OE Granada one from OReilly's was 434. It worked and I am seriously looking at going back to it. Definitely not as efficient I would guess as any good modern designed (and built properly) radiator but tech has changed since 1974 and I run 300% more power than a Granada did... but it worked pretty dang good 8 yrs ago but that was appr 500hp and now I'm running 20% more than that.


Ben - you are right on. "Looks like there are at least THREE in Yakima. A little drive might be easier than shipping.
After 3 of those already, I'd bet you'd be happier just finding a shop that can fix or make you what you want then trying and trying multiple rads until you eventually go through the same thing again."



Still looking and yes, I will contact the shops in Yakima. I'm sure they have access to cores in different size configurations and then it's brazing tanks and fittings on... (well, a bit more but).

 

[nvrstuk]

Is there something wrong with WH Copper/brass radiators?
There is a 2nd gen radiator builder in Stockton named James Fortune at West Lane Radiator.
He rebuilds my tractor core radiator every 5 years
But as we all know it won't be cheap, but it will be right.
He probably knows of someone closer to you that builds radiators, true craftsmen are getting harder/harder to find.

I will contact him and see what he has to say. Thanks Don.

 

[nvrstuk]

Failures aren't the radiator being bound due to mounts- unless an upper radiator hose is too stiff and is causing the failures.

Essentially a triangle support with the bottom being supported the entire width and a single 2 1/2 in mount centered at the top.

The radiator sits on foam mounted in channel under the core for it's entire width. The single upper support is in the middle of the core at the top. It is a 2 1/2" pc of alum with foam sandwiched btw it and the core. There are stops on either side of the upper support to keep it from sliding too far left or right. The top corners of the radiator is allowed slight movement this way for frame flexing. I ran this idea past 3 radiator manufacturers before I did it and they all said it's a great way to mount it with minimal stress locations.

 

[ba123]

makes sense, but if your leaks keep showing up on the top corner, then maybe it's time for a change on that. Can't tell for sure with your close up pics. Is your hose on the corner where it leaks?

Maybe the rad mounted in the center and the hose in that corner is causing the stress and you'd be better with a support at the corners/tanks.

 

[nvrstuk]

All the leaks have been on the right/pass side. Spread out vertically btw the tank to core.

Yes, hose is on that upper pass side corner. Stock eb upper hose but spliced so I could rotate the ends to fit rad and tstat necks.

 

[ssray]

Your thought about the hose being stiff….how much hose is “hanging out there“ back behind the radiator? Between the hose and the water inside the g’s from bouncing or oscillations in the hose could be causing stress cracks?

Or maybe the radiator structure itself is flexing from g forces, not stress being your mount allows movement. Weight plays into the design but maybe extra structural support around the radiator itself and floating that whole structure to the frame points would help in off-road apps. Not great though as it would mean rebuilding everything, providing there was room in the first place.

Plan B: Two smaller radiators mounted independently…less flex.