Another radio wiring question

[broncobuddha]

Been combing through threads looking at diagrams and discussions.

I have zero of the factory radio or speaker in my '73.

I've bought a new Pioneer head unit and 2 6x9's to just get something in the way of sound for now.

Head unit is going in a Tuffy console and the 6x9s under the bedrails right behind the front seats.

So, for others simply looking for where to manually wire up a radio, I wanted this post to be out there.

I know I need:

1) 12V unswitched source - for clock/preset saving
2) 12V switched source - for main power to the stereo
3) Ground

I'm not running an amp and I don't necessarily care about tying into a dimmer source.

So, in the order listed above, here's where I'm going:

1) Tying into the yellow bat wire coming off of the ignition
2) Tying into the black w/green ACC wire off of the ignition
3) Wherever is good.

Correct me if these won't work please. Paul? Lol.

Thanks!

 

[CATMdude45]

I just replaced the original AM head with a new radio I went off the ignition and off the lighter socket…..

 

[Oldtimer]

I hate tapping into (compromising) wires at ignition switch.

For switched power there should be a Yellow/Black stripe wire with connector for factory radio, and
for constant power (as CATM pointed out) a Blue/White stripe wire feeding lighter socket.
They are both protected by factory fuses.

 

[broncobuddha]

Excellent, gents! Thanks!

I plan on trying to tackle this tomorrow.

I don't ever recall a cigarette lighter in my truck. I'll look for the BL / W regardless.

 

[broncobuddha]

Sigh....nothing ever seems to go right.

Got wires laid out and spliced together.

Speakers won't fit where I was originally thinking but I wired them up and set them in the general space.

I could not locate the yellow w/black or the blue w/ white wires.

I decided on a different course that unfortunately didn't work:

I had a toggle switch on the dash that used to power an electric fan that I'm not longer using.

It had a wire from the ON side of that switch running directly to a temp switch over on the coolant housing. The 2nd wire from the temp switch ran back over to a relay.
The 2nd wire from the other side of the toggle on the dash runs out to the positive side of starter relay.

I've got the same ground as other working grounds but have absolutely zero power.

My thinking here is the toggle switch would just be in place of the 12v switched source and I could try and find a constant 12v later on as I'm fine if the clock resets for now.

Thoughts?

 

[gnpenning]

For testing purposes that should be fine. For testing you can even run directly from the battery or any B+ for the most part. Just remember to unhook it after testing. After you are happy that it's working properly or before you can find a fitting power source.

 

[broncobuddha]

The toggle switch isn't working though. That's my issue.

 

[lilthom]

Have you tested the toggle switch? They do go bad, especially with the lack of quality these days.

 

[broncobuddha]

Before I re-routed the wire back through the firewall (then cut and spliced it into the red power wire of the stereo) I tested it with a sweep voltmeter. Still need batteries for my digital one.

In the on position is swept all the way across. In the Off, nada. So, I thought it was working.

Wondering if it's possible that the radio requires the unswitched connection as well to power on? Wouldn't think so, but who knows.

Also could be a ground issue as well I guess.

 

[DirtDonk]

A regular radio should not require constant power to work. Just switched.
The constant power is “usually“ just for memory and clock, as you previously mentioned I think.
However, if it’s got a separate amplifier, then it might need constant and switched power.
If the amp is big, that is. A small amp like I have on my old Kenwood, just needs constant power, then switched power to head unit. The head unit switches the amp on.

As always, though… Good grounds! And even more if you want the sound to be clean when the engine is running.

 

[broncobuddha]

No amp or sub on this one. Just a head unit and two 6x9's (rear). Nothing else.

I'll have to pull it all apart and see if I misspliced something. I tried to do one connection at a time as to not get confused.

 

[broncobuddha]

Ugh... Unbelievably frustrating....

I ditched the dash switch idea and tried to do this properly.

Still unable to find a yellow w/black or green with black wire, I used a test light and digital voltmeter to find a 12v always hot (key off) and tied my yellow harness wire into that.
Then I used the same meter to find a switched 12v off of my aftermarket tach.

With the key on, I'm getting 12.60 volts all the way up to where the switched power wire goes into the back of the brand new harness plug for the stereo, and I'm grounding out at the same point where I have the stereo ground. Still won't power the radio on. I don't get it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Maybe you got a bum radio. Happens all the time with other parts, so I don’t see any reason it couldn’t happen with the radios. Don’t think I’ve ever heard of it happening before, but it’s not impossible.
Or you might call the manufacturer to see if there’s something else you need to do. Maybe there’s a security feature tied in with it.

 

[broncobuddha]

Ok, before throwing in the towel and taking it to a stereo shop, I double checked the manual and then got on a chat with Crutchfield (where I bought the unit and speakers).

Guy said it did require both switched and unswitched connections to be made.

I had used the meter on the switched power, but hadn't checked for constant 12v for the yellow wire as I thought it wasn't critical as it only provides keep memory type of power.

Well, I was wrong. Checked my yellow cable up at the harness in Key OFF and nada. Re-spliced into the constant 12v and tried again and finally, it works now.

Phew. Now to try and make it all nice and pretty. I may still go to a shop for that one, lol as I'm about spent on this one....