Anyone built their own Stainless exhaust from bends?

[trailpsycho]

I know several of you have bought bends and built your own exhaust. I was curious who used SS. Where did you source the bends from? How much different is it from using carbon steel? I know I need to use 308 MIG wire and a different gas mix, but I was looking for any other advice on sourcing, materials handling, etc. I have never worked with SS...but I do know there are some. I have looked at some of the Hot Rod Kits, but thats entirely too much $ and tube for a super single setup...unless someone wanted to split a kit. I visited www.stainlessworks.net and spoke with Jim, who was pretty cool (preices were actually a little cheaper on their website as opposed to Jegs or Summit). Their prices seem to be reasonable, especially for 304 SS...not as cheap as the Magnaflow (409 SS) bends through Summit, but not that much more (especially since its a higher grade of SS...and I wont have to wait 3 wks. Even the Magnaflow muffler I want is a 3wk back order...cant catch a break. Anyway, any advice, techniques on splicing to achieve desired radii or other shapes, concerns or criticisms would be appreciated.

Yeah, I know I could probably spend half as much for aluminized tube, but if I only want to do it once and do it right...

If anyone does have any leftover 2.5" SS tube/bends just laying around, please let me know if you want to work out a deal. Thanks.

 

[bronko69er]

IMHO, Aluminized will last plenty long enough, leave the SS for the show truck. I have a few wheeling buddys that did theirs in aluminized over 10 years ago and it looks like they did it yesterday. Only issue is keeping the welds from rusting but painting the welds or using SS wire will take care of that.
[/opinion]
I built my super single the same way (piecing it together, except in aluminized) and I just made my cuts and butted the tubes together. This method is plenty stong, no need for the expand, insert and lap weld technique. To "fine tune" the route of the pipe I just make a slit (most of the way through) on the side I want it to move to, bend untill the slit closes, tack, and fill the remaining gap.

 

[Cavalry]

Here in the salt belt anything not stainless will corrode in less than 3 years. I have seen 3xx stainless behind a cat get rust stained from the corrosive enviroment and heat.

I did one in stainless a few years ago on a j**p. None of it was polished so its hardly show quality. I TIG'd everything, so my setup was not differenet. The 316 tubing came from the local steel place the bends came from a google result of a company selling SS and all sorts of exotic tubing (titanium etc) for exhausts.

Best advise I can give is to design the system so it can be taken out fully and welded outside. Put it up a piece at a time and tack. Dont weld in your mufflers! Remember 3xx stainless is non magnetic so clamps or an extra hand might be a godsend. This stuff wants to grow a mile when heated so make sure your mockup is as tight as possible.

 

[NicksTrix]

i've got a number of sources for bends and collectors.
some sources to check out:
burns stainless
reid washbon racing exhausts
pro fab racing exhaust

spd make a nice cnc flange set up for the sbf in various port sizes. those alone are more than what most vendors charge for a set of headers.

here's a set on my own project.
it's stepped a tri Y package. 2.5 out

stainless is hard to work with unless you have the right tools.a while back a buddy built a complete package for a shelby. did it with a hack saw and a 6" sander. took him a long time but came out awesome. lots of patience involved.
one of the keys is to have tight joints in your fitment.

you'll need a bunch of bends in different radiuses. you just can't say i'll need a couple of this and that. you end up cutting up a few just trying various layouts.
took 3 tries at getting the layout to work on mine. you will have well over a grand in just bends to do a full system. add collectors,flanges, mufflers, hangers and what not you can get close to 2 in materials alone.

a 351 is harder than a 302. that extra 1.3 in deck ht makes a big dif in how it lays out and squeezes in there. just completed one recently for one of my customer builds.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Nice work.

I have done a little in the past. Aluminized exhaust (the rocks will eat it before rust ever sees it) and a set of headers. Just doing headers from a bundle of bends was interesting. Cost about the same as a medium set of headers by the time you add up all the bends (2 boxes of assorted), flanges and collecors. Can't imagine the time it would take to do it in stainless. I just sent the headers out to be coated when I was done. Again, this is Arizona. Not worried about rust here. But the time it would take to work that stainless...

 

[scsm76]

I looked into building a stainless exhaust and cheaped out, because I didn't want to invest in another bottle and roll of wire for my welder.
I made mine out of aluminized as far as the pieces needed it would be about the same. I purchased the following pieces:
J-BEND 2 1/4" 3.375"R - 6" 15"
J-BEND 2 1/2" 3.75"R - 6" 15"
U-BEND 2 1/4" 4.5" - 12" 12"
U-BEND 2 1/2" 5"R - 12" 12" (didn't even use)
6' of 2 1/2" tube (used about 4')
I built a single with crossover starting at WH shorty headers.
It was pretty easy to make, much easier than I anticipated. I would definitly do it again, and might have to because my front HP slightly hits the crossover tube.
I think you could get all the bends and tube for approximitly $200 in 304 stainless.
Here are some pictures of mine:

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

Thats way too much welding and most people will never get it to fit right. Somebody watches way too many shows on cable....It might be worth purchasing a cheap conduit bender if going to that much trouble to build a ss system yourself. I acquired a tubing bender from a muffler shop several years ago to avoid that much unnecessary work with little gain. You can actually bend a template from thick welding rod and have copied by a muffler shop. Its very easy to adjust the bends to make a perfect fit when you get home with the parts. But I guess if you want mandrel bends, and dont want to pay the piper, then whatever it takes.

 

[scsm76]

I should probably add that it took me about 3 hours to build my exhaust and I had never done it before.

 

[trailpsycho]

I am not so gung-ho as too try to build headers on out the back...although after looking at some mufflers--they dont seem that complicated either. I should have been more specific, my bad. I am running a 5.0 Explorer with steelie GT-40s through WH JBA shorty ceramic headers. I plan on running a super single setup. I can definitely see how a single radius would not suffice for all the bends....thats why I inquired on any tricks to modify a radius. Slitting and expanding or contracting makes sense. I used this technique to achieve the right radius on a piece of 16 guage sheet bent at a 90 to match the rounded corner of one of my doors...turned out great. I have already researched most of the super single threads to how most were assembled or routed. I agree, I want it welded--no slip joints, but modular to make the drivetrain accessible...possibly clamps on the muffler, flanges would add too much to the cost and provide great opportunities for leaks. Nothing is permanent except for the hot-dip galvanizing on the frame and the Line-X on the tub. This is not a show truck...while aluminized will probably suffice...if you price out the bends, its actually not that much more for SS.... As far as the cost of SS wire...even standard retail its only $12-15/lb (reels start at 2 lbs which should be plenty for the exhaust) and the same local shop said with a deposit, I'd only pay for the gas fill if I have the tank less than a week or two. So, I figure for $30-40, plus tube...its worth a shot...and will still be cheaper than dealing with a local shop...who will give me hell since I have a 76, they require installation of a cat. conv. and most places will not allow you to bring in your own CC...which is assanine...and their prices are much higher than the Universals you can get through Summit. I appreciate the feedback thus far. Keep it coming.

John

 

[trailpsycho]

I should probably add that it took me about 3 hours to build my exhaust and I had never done it before.

You have about talked me into it.

 

[trlblazr]

i've got a number of sources for bends and collectors.
some sources to check out:
burns stainless
reid washbon racing exhausts
pro fab racing exhaust

spd make a nice cnc flange set up for the sbf in various port sizes. those alone are more than what most vendors charge for a set of headers.

here's a set on my own project.
it's stepped a tri Y package. 2.5 out

stainless is hard to work with unless you have the right tools.a while back a buddy built a complete package for a shelby. did it with a hack saw and a 6" sander. took him a long time but came out awesome. lots of patience involved.
one of the keys is to have tight joints in your fitment.

you'll need a bunch of bends in different radiuses. you just can't say i'll need a couple of this and that. you end up cutting up a few just trying various layouts.
took 3 tries at getting the layout to work on mine. you will have well over a grand in just bends to do a full system. add collectors,flanges, mufflers, hangers and what not you can get close to 2 in materials alone.

a 351 is harder than a 302. that extra 1.3 in deck ht makes a big dif in how it lays out and squeezes in there. just completed one recently for one of my customer builds.

That is sweet! nice job.

 

[sstlaure]

My friend made the ones on his truck from bends and donuts.

 

[NicksTrix]

That is sweet! nice job.

thanks~