• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Anyone having this FiTech Issue?

77-302

Full Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
315
Loc.
Canton, MI
I would try your air cleaner before buying anything new. I am running a Weiand street warrior intake which I think is similar to your performer and am still using my drop offset base that I had on before my 1" body lift. No spacer, etc.

I could probably lose the offset but i like the way it looks pushed back a little from the distributor.

I was looking at offset's yesterday, I couldn't find one in a 13". I'm partial to my Ford Racing 13" because I had to go to Australia to find it... Matches the valve covers.
 

Attachments

  • underhood4.jpg
    underhood4.jpg
    132.6 KB · Views: 141

ChrisC74

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
904
I think you should be good with what you have now. I missed you were running a 13".
 

naneumranch

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Messages
405
Is there any Benefit of using the fuel command center vs just the external fuel pump and return line.
 

77-302

Full Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
315
Loc.
Canton, MI
Is there any Benefit of using the fuel command center vs just the external fuel pump and return line.

For me I went Command center for two reasons...
1) I wanted to retain my dual tank set up so the Command Center allows you to use your stock mechanical pump to keep the accumulator full on the Command center and still use you manual valve to switch between tanks.

2) Frame mounted high pressure pumps are noisy in my experience.

As I understand it, if you have an existing high pressure pump that you are happy with and it meets the duty cycle and pressure requirements of the FiTech system you should be fine.
 

bteutsch

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
875
I used the factory air cleaner no body lift edelbrock performer intake
 

ChrisC74

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
904
Finally had time to play with the timing control, properly set the idle and IAC steps. I have not had my bronco running this clean smelling since I have had it. Smooth idle, smooth acceleration, smooth quick return to idle. No back firing, no hunting idle. Very happy with this system right now.
 

drock

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2012
Messages
492
Any FiTech user updates? My Bronco is down for a few weekends while I install a new wiring harness so I sent in my Command Center for the new fuel vent valve (I had the ball check valve style with the punch mark relief) since I was left stranded one night. Great customer service.
 

mritchy1

Full Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
Messages
166
i got my fitech installed and it seams to run ok . I am having a few little problems though.
It doesn't seem to return to idle right away,and when it does it goes down to low and then
back to were it is supposed to.My Iac steps are between 6 and 8 but i only have 50 miles or so on it so far How long did it take the guys that have this system for theres to learn?
Also I tied my vent line from the command center into my front tank and now I have some gas smell around the gas cap. Any ideas?
Thanks
 

bteutsch

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
875
My vent is tied into my front tank, also. I may smell gas occasionally, but the rubber gaskets on my gas caps are not in good shape. As far as your idle not returning right away, mine did that right out of the box. I was able to eliminate it by adjusting the throttle plates closed. I overlooked the rear adjustment. The rear throttle plates need to be adjusted as well as the front. I didn't know the adjustment was in the back until I called tech support and talked to Bryce. I would try and adjust it some more. Following Bruce's guide. Could be closed too much also. He sent me an email with some instructions.
Brian,

The TPS reading will zero out every time you key off and allow the EFI save. What you are trying to achieve is to be at idle at operating temp with the IAC position between 5 and 10. To achieve this follow the steps below.

1. Bring engine up to operating temp. (around 180)
2. On the handheld go to Dashboard
3. Observe the TPS, IAC Steps, and Coolant temp readings
4a. If IAC Steps is zero and RPM is above target slowly close primary throttle blade screw (1/8 turn at a time) till IAC Steps start to raise to target 5-10 range.
4b. If IAC Steps are anything above 10 slowly open the primary throttle blade screw (1/8 turn at a time) until IAC Steps lower to the target 5-10 range.

NOTE: If TPS reading is 1.5 or higher the EFI doesn’t think the engine is in IDLE so it will raise IAC as a follower feature. To reset TPS just key off an allow EFI to power off. When EFI has saved the handheld values will go blank.
 

mritchy1

Full Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
Messages
166
If I try adjusting them anymore it throws my Iac step levels off , Some of the time it returns to idle fine and sometimes it's all over the place
 

mritchy1

Full Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
Messages
166
It doesn't seem to have any vacuum leaks , I am pulling 13 on the vacuum gauge which is what my motor is supposed to be pulling in ,One other that could be causing a problem is my engine runs really cool it's hard for me to get above 170 even though I have 180° thermostat in it. Should I try a 190 thermostat you think
 

68stang73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
399
SHES ALIVE! After 3 yrs of off and on work on my frame off rustoration I fired it up. Sherman efi tank,fitech 600 and 2 into one exhaust. Half a crank rotation and it came alive. Big shout out to all the vendors on here. Now to get my front serp back on and body for body work.
 

bteutsch

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
875
Congratulations, I know that's a good feeling when something finally works and progress is made!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

68dustin

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2016
Messages
7
hey guys, joined the site cause I'm having the same issues. I have mine on a 68 mustang with the battery in the trunk. I had 144 miles on it and now it's starting to cut off like first few posters. I already tried grounding the ecu to the battery. No luck.... Ive uploaded all there bs updates.... no luck.. last night I welded a bolt to the frame (hoping for better ground in the trunk, I haven't tested the car yet) I'm stumped... the flickering of the screen gauges and car shuts off and turns back on. I've been trying to figure this out for a month. I have double checked all wires, ran the switched power source straight to the battery. I sure wish I kept my carb.
 

bteutsch

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
875
Check the main harness where it connects to the the sub harness. I had issues with the plug. I'm running a command center. They had me add a relay for the command center and that solved my problem. It was actually melting the main power pin in the plug. If you are having stalling issues and it's not electrical, and running the command center, disable the rollover check valve and see if your issue persists.
d3fef8db1e8fc792cda3df8ca9a01ad3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

68dustin

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2016
Messages
7
no, I'm not running command center.. but ill check the plugs to make sure nothing is melting. I just welded a bolt to the rear of the car for my ground. See if it helps at all.
 

bteutsch

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
875
It may help, they had me add the relay for the fuel pump wire. They had an idea that maybe my ground for the fuel pump might not be the best causing an extra load on the harness. No problem with the plug since I added the relay. Burned up two sub harnesses before adding the relay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top