. Though I think I am going to have Mt. Logan do the work since they have done all the work on my rig up to this point.
They'll do a fine job; the Mt. Logan guys are class acts.
I think the advice I offer regarding Ford automatic transmissions is pretty reliable. I'm sure you have a lot to offer and contribute to this board in your line of specialty. With that I will say this...
1) I have rebuilt several dozen 4R70W transmissions for the local police department here and we have come to the conclusion that Synthetic lubricants, (when compared with regular petroleum based products) will significantly increase the life of the planetary gearset as well as bushing life and thrust bearings in all transmissions in the AOD family.
2) I have performed several conversions using the stock column shifter and have had no problems with detent locations as long as the correct shift lever is installed on the transmission. ~BH
I have no doubt that you have done what you said; and I'm not sure why you took it as an insult to your experience. And I would agree that you have some experience at this. But to play the devils advocate, building a few dozen transmissions hardly qualifies as a scientific evaluation. Was there a control for this experiment? Or is the evidence only anecdotal?
I agree that synthetics CAN increase the life of components; but if it increases the life of the planetary gearset at the expense of the clutches in the torque converter, is it a benefit?
Which brings me back to my original advice: anyone should check with their builder or manufacturer on the use of synthetic fluids. The builder I use does several dozen transmissions a month. And he says NO synthetic fluid.
Again, I don't disagree with you that they CAN work; I said to check with the builder. It all depends on the clutch materials used in the TC, band materials, etc. IMHO, the only benefit the synthetics offer over a good dino lube in an auto transmission is in taking heat; most synthetics can take more heat before they break down, where the dino is more easily overheated and loses its lubricating properties. But synthetic can STILL be cooked, especially in the converter where your temps are not measured. And using synthetics does not preclude them from being baked just like the dino oil. The only way to be sure is change often.
12 quarts @ $5 for mobil = $60
12 quarts @ $1.15 for valvoline = $13.80. 4 oil changes per year. And I still have enough left over for a big mac. ;-)
And FWIW, I'm not anti-synthetic; I use synthetic in all my vehicles; in the motor, axles, tcases, etc; just not my auto transmissions. But I do change the fluid in them 2-4 times a year.
I also have no doubt that you have performed conversions using the stock column shifter. Again, I don't think I was criticizing your method. But this involves using the correct shift lever (as you have noted), welding ,drilling, and a ton of measuring. I said it's EASIER to use the floor/cable shifter, and it is for 90% of the people doing the conversion. If one insists on using the column shifter, I advise them to check, double check, and triple check that the detents are in the correct position in ALL gears. This IS more work than using a cable shifter with the correct gates, or a tunnel lokar style with preconfigured shift patterns. But it would be a shame to ruin an expensive transmission because a $15 project was not set up correctly; and it's much cheaper to buy a $100 shifter and insure it is done correctly.
To each their own; there are many ways to skin a cat, and done correctly, they'll all yield the same result. I just recommend the most efficient way to most people... Like myself, most of us are short on both time and money; so the least expensive way that yields the best end result in the shortest amount of time wins for me.