Astro van hydro boost adapter concerns (off eBay)

[joshua]

I bought this adapter linkage off of eBay some time back for an Astro van HB conversion. It didn’t have any instructions. But it also didn’t look like rocket science.

Well…. After putting it together,I’m not so sure I did it correctly. I’m not super impressed with it. Unless this is my error of assembly.

1st concern.

Seems pretty sloppy (loose) Possible leading loose feeling brakes?

2nd concern.

Where the pin in the fork that attaches the brake pedal rod to the swivel rod inside the oem angle bracket, will only feed through the bottom, leaving that little cotter pin on top holding the main pin in/up. (Arrow in the 1st picture) That’s a deal breaker for me if I can’t execute my plan to flip it. I can see that cotter pin wearing out and dropping the other pin leading to no brakes.

I’m thinking to correct that issue of grinding material away from the arm above it to allow the pin to go in through the top. But there’s already not a lot of material there. Or idk maybe it’s fine or the vacuum booster was that way with the cotter pin holding it in/up.

3rd concern

I’m going to try and attach a short video of it working, because the rod coming out of the HB seems like it is angled to high maybe, and could bind? And to see it’s traveling enough.

And lastly.

Where the HB units rod connects to the swivel arm is held on by a jam nut. It did come with a brass bushing. But the bushing isn’t long enough to put torque on it. If I did it would lock it down I’m sure, making it super stiff. Am I supposed just screw that jam nut down till it’s just hovering, hoping it doesn’t back off?

I just feel like I’m not understanding something in the kit. I’ll have an arrow in the last picture hopefully showing what I’m trying to describe about the jam nut.

I used all the parts the kit came with. So I’m kinda stumped.

So anyone who’s dealt with these kits before, please lmk if it’s correct or something is off here.

I tried to find a write up on the Astro van specifically. But I got nothing. I was hoping to not even have to use this kit. But I couldn’t figure it out. As the rod on the HB isn’t to short, it’s to long. And I can’t think of a great way to shorten it. Maybe shim the whole unit out a ways with washers?

 

[ksagis]

Maybe I’m not understanding the concern on the cotter pin, what exactly would make it “wear out”? Seems like if you bend the ears back it would be fine?

If the nut on the HB rod is a lock nut with distorted threads, seems it might be okay if it doesn’t bottom out.

Not totally sure from the pics, but it looks like the pivot arm on the HB side is longer than the MC side. If so, I don’t think you’ll be happy with it. I have posted fairly frequently on pedal ratio and James had a thread on a similar topic.

 

[904Bronco]

Who was the Seller on eBay?

We have a member here, Catfan, who sells his adapters on eBay as Deals4u5309.
If he was the seller you should reach out to him.
Great service and a quality product when using the Chevy Astro van unit. Too bad those units are hard to find anymore in the wreaking yards..

 

[catfan]

I bought this adapter linkage off of eBay some time back for an Astro van HB conversion. It didn’t have any instructions. But it also didn’t look like rocket science.

Well…. After putting it together,I’m not so sure I did it correctly. I’m not super impressed with it. Unless this is my error of assembly.

1st concern.

Seems pretty sloppy (loose) Possible leading loose feeling brakes?

2nd concern.

Where the pin in the fork that attaches the brake pedal rod to the swivel rod inside the oem angle bracket, will only feed through the bottom, leaving that little cotter pin on top holding the main pin in/up. (Arrow in the 1st picture) That’s a deal breaker for me if I can’t execute my plan to flip it. I can see that cotter pin wearing out and dropping the other pin leading to no brakes.

I’m thinking to correct that issue of grinding material away from the arm above it to allow the pin to go in through the top. But there’s already not a lot of material there. Or idk maybe it’s fine or the vacuum booster was that way with the cotter pin holding it in/up.

3rd concern

I’m going to try and attach a short video of it working, because the rod coming out of the HB seems like it is angled to high maybe, and could bind? And to see it’s traveling enough.

And lastly.

Where the HB units rod connects to the swivel arm is held on by a jam nut. It did come with a brass bushing. But the bushing isn’t long enough to put torque on it. If I did it would lock it down I’m sure, making it super stiff. Am I supposed just screw that jam nut down till it’s just hovering, hoping it doesn’t back off?

I just feel like I’m not understanding something in the kit. I’ll have an arrow in the last picture hopefully showing what I’m trying to describe about the jam nut.

I used all the parts the kit came with. So I’m kinda stumped.

So anyone who’s dealt with these kits before, please lmk if it’s correct or something is off here.

I tried to find a write up on the Astro van specifically. But I got nothing. I was hoping to not even have to use this kit. But I couldn’t figure it out. As the rod on the HB isn’t to short, it’s to long. And I can’t think of a great way to shorten it. Maybe shim the whole unit out a ways with washers?

Pretty sure that's my bracket , yes the jam nut is meant to hover as you say. As for the cotter pin going in from the bottom is the only way.
On the rod being too long I make it with 4 inches of threads in case it needs to be shortened. If you have no way to cut it let me know
what size you need and I will ship you a new one free of charge. If you're still not happy with it send it back for a full refund.

 

[joshua]

Maybe I’m not understanding the concern on the cotter pin, what exactly would make it “wear out”? Seems like if you bend the ears back it would be fine?

If the nut on the HB rod is a lock nut with distorted threads, seems it might be okay if it doesn’t bottom out.

Not totally sure from the pics, but it looks like the pivot arm on the HB side is longer than the MC side. If so, I don’t think you’ll be happy with it. I have posted fairly frequently on pedal ratio and James had a thread on a similar topic.

I just feel like that little cotter pin would make a lot more sense flipped. Blue arrow shows the direction of gravity. Maybe I’m just being a pansy, but I don’t like to screw with brakes, steering, suspension and frames.

 

[catfan]

I just feel like that little cotter pin would make a lot more sense flipped. Blue arrow shows the direction of gravity. Maybe I’m just being a pansy, but I don’t like to screw with brakes, steering, suspension and frames.

No not at all but I would have to move the top tam and then the h-boost push rod would have to be modified. I will take another look at it when I do the next one.

 

[m_m70]

I can see that cotter pin wearing out and dropping the other pin leading to no brakes.

I wouldn't have an issue with it but if I did I would put a thin brass/copper washer with a touch of grease between the cotter pin and the fork and keep an eye on it.

 

[ksagis]

A shoulder bolt cap screw with a locking nut would likely work in place of the pin and cotter. With shoulder bolt it shouldn’t have any more play than you have now.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shoulder-bolts/

 

[joshua]

Pretty sure that's my bracket , yes the jam nut is meant to hover as you say. As for the cotter pin going in from the bottom is the only way.
On the rod being too long I make it with 4 inches of threads in case it needs to be shortened. If you have no way to cut it let me know
what size you need and I will ship you a new one free of charge. If you're still not happy with it send it back for a full refund.

No, I’m not dissatisfied. I just think this is the way it is when making things work together that were never ment to be together. That’s hot rodding. I purposely withheld the name of who sold it. This wasn’t a rant.

Because It seems to be as well constructed as possible. And I offer no better solutions, or how it would work better. That’s why I’m asking/verifying it’s correct, and or safe. So definitely complaining.

If this is the way it goes I’ll at least bleed the brakes and try it out. That is if it looks like its put together correctly.

I still have to drill this original booster bracket out to fit the larger bolt that goes through the center, and didn’t want to do that if this kit wasn’t going to work. It’s harder to make the hole smaller, if I want yo put it back.

 

[catfan]

No, I’m not dissatisfied. I just think this is the way it is when making things work together that were never ment to be together. That’s hot rodding. I purposely withheld the name of who sold it. This wasn’t a rant.

Because It seems to be as well constructed as possible. And I offer no better solutions, or how it would work better. That’s why I’m asking/verifying it’s correct, and or safe. So definitely complaining.

If this is the way it goes I’ll at least bleed the brakes and try it out. That is if it looks like its put together correctly.

I still have to drill this original booster bracket out to fit the larger bolt that goes through the center, and didn’t want to do that if this kit wasn’t going to work. It’s harder to make the hole smaller, if I want yo put it back.

Drill it out 1/2" holes and a booster with 3/8" bolts can still be mounted to it if you don't like it and want to go back.

 

[joshua]

Drill it out 1/2" holes and a booster with 3/8" bolts can still be mounted to it if you don't like it and want to go back.

I’m going to drill this out. I’m sure there’s a bushing I can use if I want i go back. Thanks for the help.

 

[joshua]

Drill it out 1/2" holes and a booster with 3/8" bolts can still be mounted to it if you don't like it and want to go back.

Is this where this bushing goes? If so I’m assuming that some bronco years had different pegs on the brake pedal.? Because I think it’s the correct size with out that bushing.

 

[catfan]

Is this where this bushing goes? If so I’m assuming that some bronco years had different pegs on the brake pedal.? Because I think it’s the correct size with out that bushing.

Those bushing are for the h-boost rod, you use your bushing for the brake pedal rod.

 

[joshua]

Those bushing are for the h-boost rod, you use your bushing for the brake pedal rod.

Ok, so one’s an extra? Because it came with 2. The smaller fits my booster rod.

I mean 2 don’t go on here correct?

 

[904Bronco]

It comes with two bushings because the HB unit had two different sized holes on the rod end, depending on the year of Astro van.

If I remember correctly... Been a while.

 

[joshua]

It comes with two bushings because the HB unit had two different sized holes on the rod end, depending on the year of Astro van.

If I remember correctly... Been a while.

That’s what I was trying to say. Thanks

 

[bronco italiano]

AS M_M
70 stated, put a brass washer/grease under the cotter pin. Making brake items machine fit is a bad idea. The brackets/linkage are robust, and it doesn't take much pedal push for the hydroboost to work. It is dramatically stronger than vacuum booster. The HB rod angle is fine as it doesn't move very far, and it articulates to adjust to varying departure angles
I would make the rod a little shorter otherwise the setup is just fine. Catfan makes a nice product

 

[toddz69]

If so I’m assuming that some bronco years had different pegs on the brake pedal.?

They're all the same.

Todd Z.

 

[joshua]

AS M_M
70 stated, put a brass washer/grease under the cotter pin. Making brake items machine fit is a bad idea. The brackets/linkage are robust, and it doesn't take much pedal push for the hydroboost to work. It is dramatically stronger than vacuum booster. The HB rod angle is fine as it doesn't move very far, and it articulates to adjust to varying departure angles
I would make the rod a little shorter otherwise the setup is just fine. Catfan makes a nice product

The rod coming out of the back of the HB right, make that shorter?

 

[bronco italiano]

Cut it, thread it, use a coupling nut to get the right distance you want