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Axle Install Begins H1 Wheels Build Up

74BroncoCO

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
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2,374
I guess I don't quite understand how you plan to design, but I am thinking more stress would be on the lower arms because you'll be bouncing them off rocks. Most front suspension is built with beefy lower arms and the upper arms control pinion angle and caster. Maybe we need you to clarify how you're going at this. In any case, I hope to be building my own arms one day too, so I am very interested in what you end up with and how it works.

J.D.
 

Apogee

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Nov 26, 2005
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6,106
It's a radius arm suspension, not a 4-link. There are no "upper" links and "lower" links, only one radius arm, unless I'm missing something. Personally I would design your tubular radius arms for maximum clearance like the CAGE and Duff long-arms. Big, thick-walled tube from your Evo joints to the upper mount at the axle with a shorter, boxed in lower tube to the lower mount to set the caster/pinion angle. IMO this would be the easiest to fabricate and result in the most ground clearance.
 

OX1

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Aug 26, 2003
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3,464
How flexy are those stock bushings and are they going to hold up? If they don't, what is your contingency?

You planning on wristing at all?

Seems like those axle mounts hang down quite low, kind of killing clearance.

Which ever link you use for the "lower" (I realize, no lower ;D), I would go 1/4 wall. Thats what I used on my 3 link and you can drag and bump it all day long on pointy rocks without denting it.
 
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RajinCajun

RajinCajun

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Thanks guys for the comments.. I am still trying to decide on the design.. I am thinking if I make the lower part of the radius arm one solid piece and then the upper one angle back into it.. There are draw backs to both designs as far as clearance etc.. I had thought about like someone said above, make the upper bar one piece and have the lower parallel for a few inches then have a 45 in it up to the other tube and plate between them.. with the tubing I am using as a mock up, that is fine, but when I get the 1/4 wall DOM I won't be able to bend it :) So I am trying to plan my designs using straight tubing.. And if you notice you really only gain a few "s with the upper bar solid. Also if the lower bar is solid then it will hit rocks etc, but that will protect the engine, drive shaft etc. from damage... and with it being thick I should never hurt it.. To many decisions, I may just say screw it and start building.. :)

For flex of the stock bushings I am not planning to get any flex there, I figure the Heim's will give all of the flex I need.. From what I have seen wristing really helps when you have the stock radius arm set up where the rear of the bar is binding?? The heim joint set up should cure that..

I have also thought about building some way for one of the bars to be adjustable for pinion angle.. but then again once it is right I shouldn't be needing to adjust it..

I am leaning toward the design under the Radius Arm Test 1 pics, where the lower bar is solid and the upper angles into it....
 

Gummi Bear

Bronco Guru
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Jul 8, 2003
Messages
3,647
I like that front axle position. You going full hydro? If not, seriously consider it. It's a set it, and forget it kind of thing, and caster isn't so much of an issue either.

Stretch that wheelbase as much as you can now, save the headaches later.

I like where you're going with this. ;D
 

crawln68

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Oct 8, 2004
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Gummi Bear said:
Stretch that wheelbase as much as you can now, save the headaches later. ;D


I just thought that Mike should read this again. ;D
 

crawln68

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Oct 8, 2004
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Gummi Bear said:
Stretch that wheelbase as much as you can now, save the headaches later.;D


Maybe one more time just for good measure. LOL!!
 
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RajinCajun

RajinCajun

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LOL!! You are to much... I plan to move the axle back, just not right now. I am planning to take it home for Thanksgiving and the front axle is going to be fun.. I am planning to move the fuel tank and relocate the rear axle and build new shackle mounts at one time I don't want to have the Bronco down any longer than necessary right now. For the rear all I have to do is get the mounting flange for the drive shaft, set the pinion angle then weld the perches.. I just don't want to get off into another month or so of down time with hunting season opening up here pretty quick... :) I figure if I do it later, I can devote my time/effort totally to moving the rear and decide what I am doing with the fuel tank issue..

Gummi.. Not planning full hydro, I am planning hydro assist in the near future. I want to keep it somewhat street legal for getting from one hunting are to another and running to the DQ during some of our events..
 

74BroncoCO

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Nov 3, 2004
Messages
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What are you using as brackets on the front axle for the radius arms? The reason I ask, is I think I have the axles I need for now and would like to see if I can find some radius arm caps that are not made fron cast that I can use to start my design. I am thinking they will be the hardest part to build, but maybe I am wrong.

So it sounds like you're going to make the arms out of straight pipe? I would consider getting the main arms bent so that you can turning radius.

J.D.
 
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RajinCajun

RajinCajun

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Nov 22, 2003
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If you look at the pics I can't use the C's like normal radius arms.. My axle has bushing built into the housing so I am stuck with that. I am planning to make plates for both sides and put the tubing between it.. Hard to explain.. I will have pics soon.. :)
I am using straight tubing because the 2.25 DOM will be tough to bend. Also with the axle being so wide and my frame narrow I won't be hitting the bars.. There are a couple of pics with that show it turned lock to lock with a 36" tire and I still have about 5" or so to the bar..

74BroncoCO said:
What are you using as brackets on the front axle for the radius arms? The reason I ask, is I think I have the axles I need for now and would like to see if I can find some radius arm caps that are not made fron cast that I can use to start my design. I am thinking they will be the hardest part to build, but maybe I am wrong.

So it sounds like you're going to make the arms out of straight pipe? I would consider getting the main arms bent so that you can turning radius.

J.D.
 

OX1

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Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,464
74BroncoCO said:
So it sounds like you're going to make the arms out of straight pipe? I would consider getting the main arms bent so that you can turning radius.
J.D.

When I made a truss for my front mog axle (for attachment of the 3rd link), I used 1.5, 1/4 wall. It's not 2", but I used a high end electric/hydraulic pipe bender a friend let me use. I even used the next step up pipe die and due to the wall thickess did not get any crushing or rippling. I'm pretty sure that bender would have easily done 2", 1/4 wall.

http://ox.users.superford.org/GREEN_DILYSI/UNIMOG/404/DONE/DCP02408.JPG
 

broncow72

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Jun 5, 2005
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Spring,TX.
Looking good Mike. Nice hood;D .
Sure wish I could do that in my driveway. My neighbors would have a fit.
I understand what you're doing with the radius arms, but couldn't you do a 4 link with those axle attachments? Either way, they are pretty close to how the Mitsu, Montero rear axle is located and it does pretty well.
 
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RajinCajun

RajinCajun

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Thanks Broncow.. I have actually thought about that too. But right now I don't want to get into the geometry of figuring how long the lower bar needs to be and how long the upper needs to be.. I figured with the single radius arm it would be easier right now.. :)
 

OX1

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Aug 26, 2003
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3,464
RajinCajun said:
Thanks Broncow.. I have actually thought about that too. But right now I don't want to get into the geometry of figuring how long the lower bar needs to be and how long the upper needs to be.. I figured with the single radius arm it would be easier right now.. :)

How bout a 5 link, then all 4 arms are the same length. Then again, after watching my buddies 89 bronc defy logic and out flex anything else I've seen with CAGE arms and flexy springs, why bother doing anything other than radius arms??
 
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