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ball joint removal - Any tips??

Kyle.malone

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 9, 2006
Messages
3,077
Loc.
Norman, OK
I did a search and everyone keeps saying to remove the snap ring. I am startingto believe that these are origional and I have cleaned them and still cannot find a stupid snap ring. I went and bought a ball joint service tool and a pitman arm puller and still have had no luck. I even used a Big A$$ Hammer and still couldnt get them loose. I am trying to remove the steering linkage to the drag link and will get these replaced then when I get around to the disc brakes, I will take care of the rest. Any help would be appriciated..


Edit: Could it be that since it has been there since '71 that the thing might need to be heated and is just corroded??
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Could be, but every time I've taken originals out they've actually popped right out with a hammer. Can't speak for my original '71's though, since back then I thought you had to have a pro do it, so I spent some obscene amount of money to have someone "press" them out, after having to make their own jigs to fit into the press. Whatever. I was pissed, so the next time I had to do a set I took after them with a mini-sledge and never looked back.

I've heard others say too, that theirs did not have a snap-ring. Every one I've worked on did however, so we should double check something here. You can see the snap-ring groove in both joints, correct? If you can see the groove at least, and there is no ring in it, fine. But if you're not seeing a groove, keep looking. Should only be a ring on one ball-joint per side (lower), though I think both of mine had grooves.

So, in order of appearance:
1. Remove all extra stuff, including the axle shafts.
2. Remove upper and lower ball-joint nuts.
3. Remove upper adjusting collar (need a special socket for this)
4. Remove knuckle. Hit DOWNWARD to remove assembly.
5. Remove any snap-rings in the lower joints.
6. Hit joints UPWARD to remove from knuckle casting.

I should have said that step #1 would be to soak everything in a penetrating lubricant. Those tapered studs in their holes can really grip tight. Add a little rust and dried grease. Throw in almost 40 years to turn into one piece, and you get the picture. Just like you were thinking.

Good luck. If anyone else sees something I missed, or that the order is wrong, please chime in!
Hope that helps. Sounds like you're on the right track and it's just not cooperating.
Were you able to get the upper sleeve out? Is that the ball-joint service tool that you were talking about? Or is it one of those C-clamp type removal tools?

Paul
 

siderbox

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Are you doing like this?
 

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Kyle.malone

Kyle.malone

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Norman, OK
That is the tool I went and bought.. I am currently trying to get the steering linkage off the drag link. I won't be tackling the upper and lowers til a later date.

I just got back and cleaned more off and still found no groove for a snap ring. I'll see if I can post a pic.
 
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Kyle.malone

Kyle.malone

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As yoiu can see, from all the hitting with a hammer, I have competley removed the rubber between the steering linkage and hte drag link.
 

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siderbox

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Two hammers.
One held against the linkage (the one that the stud goes through)
Hit on the other side, 180 degree.

Does that make sense?

What it does is momentarily oval the tapered hole that is holding the stud.
After each hit, tap up on the drag link.
Should pop right out after a few hits.

Ball joints and tie rods are funny.
It seems you don't want to hit what you want out. You hit where it's in.
 
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Kyle.malone

Kyle.malone

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Norman, OK
I have a set of pickle forks too. I might try those next, but not til tomorrow. Thanks for everyones help. I am just now starting to get this thing put back together from the complete tear down.
 

DirtDonk

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Hmm, no grooves eh? Can't help you there then. All of mine had them. Old original ones from '71 and the Moog replacements from about '85-ish.

Must be like you said then... Time for a little H & H (heat and hammer - not Holland & Holland for you gun people).

Good luck.

Paul
 

76_bronco

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Jul 1, 2008
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Loc.
Middletown,Delaware
I just did my ball joints I remoced everything down to the knuckles and pulled out the axle shafts. I left the nuts threaded on the ball joint stud a few turns and then used a hammer and a fork and after a coulple wacks the popped right out. Spray the hell out of them and let em soak overnight too..
 

airbur

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Castle Pines, CO
I tried everything to remove the original ball joints from the '76 axle I have. I even used the tool above and many different hammers with no luck. I finally threw the axle in the truck and took it to a local auto-shop. They used a press and had them out in no time.
 
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Kyle.malone

Kyle.malone

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OK.. I got it off with the fork and hitting it with the hammer... I soaked it all night in some PB Blaster..

Now, I am having problems getting the ball joint out. On both ends.. One end has the whole ball joint and the other end looks like this..
 

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Kyle.malone

Kyle.malone

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both pics are of the same side. The pics are where the steering linkage attaches to the pitman arm and was cut off.. The other end is the normal ball joint, but with the end on it. Can't seem to get either side out.
 

brewchief

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
874
both pics are of the same side. The pics are where the steering linkage attaches to the pitman arm and was cut off.. The other end is the normal ball joint, but with the end on it. Can't seem to get either side out.

The tie rod and drag link ends don't come apart,the whole assembly gets replaced.
 
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Kyle.malone

Kyle.malone

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3,077
Loc.
Norman, OK
Was not aware of that.. Thanks!!!! Now I can quit banging my head on it. ;D

I guess that when I order my power steering conversion that it will most likely come in the kit??
 
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