Barn Find Restomod Build

[Fireball05]

This is awesome! Love following along and the fast process. How far behind are the postings from the actual build?

That tranny install sure looks easy with everything out of the way

 

[AZ73]

Post away, I do! My build is nothing like yours, but I love posting pics and info as I go along so I can help other who may go down the same path.

How did you like Tom's brake line kit as a whole? I'm going to be going through my other Bronco before I get it on the road and have that kit earmarked for purchase.

Worth $159?

Well, I thought it was a little high, and If I had more time than money I might have just done it myself. But in the big scheme of things, my time was better spent on other things so this was one of those jobs I passed on. I also purchased fuel lines from BC Bronco. Could I have made those? Sure. Much easier than the brake lines, but I still bought them to save time. When I was younger and had more time than money, I built EVERYTHING from scratch and refurbished parts that I'm buying new now. But look where I'm doing the work. My neighbors already tell me they think I'm running a manufacturing plant there. I gave up my sand blaster and dip tanks long ago. And I'm saving a small fortune by doing most of this work myself. That pays for the brake and fuel lines.

 

[AZ73]

This is awesome! Love following along and the fast process. How far behind are the postings from the actual build?

That tranny install sure looks easy with everything out of the way

I started the build in mid April. Then stopped from early July through the first of November (the heat!!!! plus other obligations). I last worked on it the weekend before Thanksgiving. What you see with the fenders on the front is where it sits now. I was fortunate enough to get regular 3 day blocks of time every week or two and I worked 8 hour days on it, usually 6 full hours, plus one setting up and 1 cleaning up.

And yes, EVERYTHING is easier this way. The problem is you can't drive it in the mean time. Life is full of tradeoffs.

I've ordered the next series of parts, and as I said it's going to media blasting in the next week. The engine is being built for me by FordStrokers.com which had a 5 month backlog when I ordered it so it's not showing up till March. I usually do my own engines ala Mountain Ram, but I've never done a Ford, (mostly GM) and never a stroked Ford. I read a ton on it and talked to a lot of Mustang guys, and decided it's a lot of money and time if I do it wrong, and there wasn't a massive savings to do it myself. I talked to a guy who did his 3 times, each time it blew up after 500 miles. He wasn't an inexperienced guy either.

I'd like to get the body/paint finished by then, assemble the doors, hatch, tailgate (they're all stripped of everything). Install the glass and most of the wiring, and build the dashboard while I'm waiting. But as MANY a Bronco owner knows.......Time slips by faster than we plan.

This will be the last update on the bronco until I send it to media blasting and it comes back. Thank you all for following!

 

[73BroncoRanger]

Ok, having problems with the track bar. This is the second one I've gotten and I've called all the major bronco houses and asked about it. They all say this is the measurements of the bars they sell and have been putting them on Broncos with no problem. When I went to install it, it seemed off. It didn't slide on smoothly or in parallel. I measured the mounts and the bar, then I measured the factory stock bar. All the aftermarket ones seem to be under-bent causing the ends to be parallel instead of a 1.75 inch offset. Sure, I can beat it on with a rubber hammer, but it seems like the after market ones are manufactured incorrect. My measurement from the center of the drop bracket to the center mounting point on the Dana 44 is offset by 1.75 inches, and so is my stock bar. When I compare stock to aftermarket, they are off by 1.75 inches. Anyone else have this problem? Am I doing something wrong here? Will the weight of the engine cause the gap to be less? But then why is the aftermarket off from the factory? Am I supposed to just fit it and let it mount at an angle on the Dana 44 with the bushing taking the brunt? Unless anyone else has a suggestion, I might have to just use a Heim joint on one end or both ends. Anyone?

I just did an adjustable track bar a couple days ago, when I compared it with the stock it was "off" as far as similarity in the bend,

the real problem came in following the directions that came with it,

I did ultimately get it centered and it has no bind, I'm happy with it ;D

 

[KyleQ]

Well, I thought it was a little high, and If I had more time than money I might have just done it myself. But in the big scheme of things, my time was better spent on other things so this was one of those jobs I passed on. I also purchased fuel lines from BC Bronco. Could I have made those? Sure. Much easier than the brake lines, but I still bought them to save time. When I was younger and had more time than money, I built EVERYTHING from scratch and refurbished parts that I'm buying new now. But look where I'm doing the work. My neighbors already tell me they think I'm running a manufacturing plant there. I gave up my sand blaster and dip tanks long ago. And I'm saving a small fortune by doing most of this work myself. That pays for the brake and fuel lines.

Thanks - what I needed to know. I could bend everything up by hand, do everything myself, but I've been doing that forever and buying something pre-made and the fact that it is stainless, sounds like a nice change.

I'm super jealous of your new sheet metal - where is the old stuff going? MN rust takes a toll on what I can find around here....

Keep up the killer progress -

AZ73 - Fordstroker.com motor <massive drool> - that is a seriously awesome decision you made there

 

[Fireball05]

AZ - thanks for the info. Everything is looking great so far! Curious as to the 3550 as this is the tranny swap that I think I'd like to do. Did you get to drive a Bronco with a 3550? What other choices did you consider before going this way? It sounds like your intended use is mainly street with a little bit of trails?

Have you decided on all the finishing touches yet? Paint color, interior, other finish work, etc?

Cool stuff, enjoy the good photos and detailed explanations. I'm jealous of every frame off build I see, but have to admit that doing it piece by piece and still being able to drive mine every now and then does have its perks!

 

[AZ73]

Yeah, the FordStrokers is a nice motor. When I pulled the motor out of this Bronco and decoded it, it turns out it was a factory crate motor from 1980. No idea what happened to the original stock one. Although I wanted a 347 I looked at the Ford racing 302,306 and 347 also, and spent a ton of time on the phone with those guys. There was a need to change out the cam and they gave me the name of some guys that redo the Ford Racing motors to move the torque band down by replacing the cam, but in the end, the 306 seemed like a good value motor, even with changing the cam out, but the 302 was pricey for the power (and didn't have enough power for me) and their 347 was based on their new Boss block, which has shorter deck height, and with a stroker, the piston is already coming out the bottom of the cylinder. I also tried to look for a local builder, but the major ones had bad reviews and I couldn't seem to locate any of the "word of mouth" guys. I wish I knew who 73AZBronco was using when I made my decision, but he's spending about what I am so it's a wash. Since I'm building the motor for dependability, durability, and power, and the FordStorkers was about the same price as the Ford Racing, I went with Jim's motor, and I got to make it EXACTLY what I wanted.

I know there's a lot of EFI going on, and I've set up the EB to make an easy change-over if I change my mind in the future, but I've run carbs on all my other "toys" and have been happy with them. Also Jim is an amazing machinist with exacting tolerances. I think this motor will be about 95% as efficient as an EFI motor without any potential EFI issues in the middle of nowhere.

 

[AZ73]

AZ - thanks for the info. Everything is looking great so far! Curious as to the 3550 as this is the tranny swap that I think I'd like to do. Did you get to drive a Bronco with a 3550? What other choices did you consider before going this way? It sounds like your intended use is mainly street with a little bit of trails?

Have you decided on all the finishing touches yet? Paint color, interior, other finish work, etc?

Cool stuff, enjoy the good photos and detailed explanations. I'm jealous of every frame off build I see, but have to admit that doing it piece by piece and still being able to drive mine every now and then does have its perks!

Well I haven't driven a Bronco with the 3550, but I drove a Jeep with it, and a Bronco with the NV4500. For years when I was younger I drove an F150 with a 3 on the tree (and a straight 6). It was a truck and felt like it. Now I'm looking for a vehicle I can drive more regularly and make it enjoyable. I didn't want an automatic (shifting doesn't bother me), and I didn't really want to feel like I was driving a truck. Plus the wife is a fan and will be driving it. The NV3550 was a nice, smooth feel. Completely against the "manly" feel of a truck shifter, but I'm past that stage just like I'm past the stage of glass packs. Thus my decision was made. I spoke with a number of transmission guys about the 300 ft/lb rating versus my 400 ft/lb motor, and they all said for the tires and gears I'm using, and the lack of major rock crawling, it won't be a problem. If it turns out that I disintegrate it, I've been told I can rebuild it with stronger parts. Or I'll just suck it up and put the 4500 in.

The color has been an endless decision. I was torn between the stock Hot Ginger Poly, and that Chrysler Mango Tango. In the end, I'm not a flashy guy and I am trying to pay homage to the "barn find" nature of the truck so the Hot Ginger Poly won out, with the Wimbledon White top. The inside will be a more modern look, but I haven't quite picked the colors yet. I found this Bronco about 3 weeks ago when I was Googling the color. It's surprisingly similar to my vision:

http://bigskybroncos.homestead.com/RestorationsPg4.html

Although I'm going for the stock hood (which might be a problem since I'm using the beefier motor mounts, but that's a problem for another day).

I had already taken delivery of my Keystone-Fabrication front bumper which matches this one before I even found this one.

I'm also a HUGE fan of Broncoitis's dash, but I'm trying to incorporate the stock speedo so I keep looking for ideas. I'll probably borrow his idea for that little insert between the floor and the dash.

The wheels and interior color scheme haven't been decided yet, although the top will have foam insulation and a panel. NickTix does AMAZING work also and I've been studying their interiors for ideas.

 

[73BroncoRanger]

Yeah, the FordStrokers is a nice motor. When I pulled the motor out of this Bronco and decoded it, it turns out it was a factory crate motor from 1980. No idea what happened to the original stock one. Although I wanted a 347 I looked at the Ford racing 302,306 and 347 also, and spent a ton of time on the phone with those guys. There was a need to change out the cam and they gave me the name of some guys that redo the Ford Racing motors to move the torque band down by replacing the cam, but in the end, the 306 seemed like a good value motor, even with changing the cam out, but the 302 was pricey for the power (and didn't have enough power for me) and their 347 was based on their new Boss block, which has shorter deck height, and with a stroker, the piston is already coming out the bottom of the cylinder. I also tried to look for a local builder, but the major ones had bad reviews and I couldn't seem to locate any of the "word of mouth" guys. I wish I knew who 73AZBronco was using when I made my decision, but he's spending about what I am so it's a wash. Since I'm building the motor for dependability, durability, and power, and the FordStorkers was about the same price as the Ford Racing, I went with Jim's motor, and I got to make it EXACTLY what I wanted.

I know there's a lot of EFI going on, and I've set up the EB to make an easy change-over if I change my mind in the future, but I've run carbs on all my other "toys" and have been happy with them. Also Jim is an amazing machinist with exacting tolerances. I think this motor will be about 95% as efficient as an EFI motor without any potential EFI issues in the middle of nowhere.

you should be banned for posting such obscene engine porn, I can barely stand to look under my hood now

 

[73BroncoRanger]

look at the sequoia brown which is a stock color

 

[AZ73]

Ok, it's been a few weeks. Rain came, then company so I didn't get the body to the media blaster until today. I was disappointed to find out AFTER I dropped it off the media won't take the glue from the carpet off. He says it just bounces off anything rubber like seam sealer, carpet glue, and some hardened small grommets under the seats that I figured would blast away. He also says he can do the outside of the top, and around the curved part of the inside, but were there's ribs, he won't do as it will "show through" the other side. Not really sure what he meant, but he said it's critical to make sure the large surface heats up evenly or the panel will warp. He can't blast under the ribs so there's a greater chance of warpage or something. Some sanding in my future. He's well known and does a lot of cars that are in Barrett Jackson so I trust him.

Finally got the last thing that was still not disassembled taken apart - the dash. I'm probably going to go with a BCB "blank slate" but I decided to at least get this one blasted as an option.

I also couldn't get those damn screws off the door latch in the body. I PB Blasted it but they don't budge and the head is starting to strip. Any ideas? For now I just had him tape them for the media blasting.

Loading was a pain, had to take a tire off the trailer to slide the cherry picker up far enough, but it's at the shop now and the current estimate is it'll be done by Friday. Then comes the body work. When I had it in the air, I was tapping the rockers. The Drivers side is fine, the passenger side is thin and split so that's being replaced when it comes back. It's always something.

 

[Fireball05]

Regarding the door latch, I was able to get mine free with an impact driver and a #4 Phillips. You probably know this, but you can get to the backside of the mount points from inside the rear wheel wells to shoot with pb plaster.

Why did you have him taps them up? Couldn't they just be blasted with the rest of the body?

 

[AZ73]

Regarding the door latch, I was able to get mine free with an impact driver and a #4 Phillips. You probably know this, but you can get to the backside of the mount points from inside the rear wheel wells to shoot with pb plaster.

Why did you have him taps them up? Couldn't they just be blasted with the rest of the body?

I'm going to try the impact driver when it comes back. Thanks for reminding me. I just ran out of time because I completely forgot about them until I was loading it on the truck. I blasted them from the back, but this thing was sitting for 22 years and the strike plate has some corrosion on it (and the back side screws were rusty). My media blaster said if he tapes it, the media won't cut the zinc coating off the parts. He asked if I was going to re-zinc them and I said no, so just tape them. When I get them off if they're bad, I'll just replace them.

 

[Fireball05]

Mine had already been painted over, forgot about the plating. And I actually just started a thread asking about having some misc parts costed, the door latches being amongst them.

One quick tip I used with the impact. Give it a few blows coming out, and then a blow or two going back in. On one of my screws that was being stubborn, the blow back in is what actually knocked it loose.

 

[AZ73]

Mine had already been painted over, forgot about the plating. And I actually just started a thread asking about having some misc parts costed, the door latches being amongst them.

One quick tip I used with the impact. Give it a few blows coming out, and then a blow or two going back in. On one of my screws that was being stubborn, the blow back in is what actually knocked it loose.

Yeah, I saw that. Now I'm thinking about pulling all the factory suspension bolts off that I hadn't already replaced with Grade 8 and getting them coated. No wonder it takes 4 years to do one of these!

 

[AZ73]

The rain and visitors both stopped so I finally got the body media blasted. There's always good and bad with media blasting. You get to work with a fresh canvas, but all those nasty little pinholes that weren't there before seem to show up. All in all it's in great shape. Some pinholes in the right rear bottom corner under the taillight, and at least 1 rocker will have to be replaced. It was an all day event to get it home so I'll do a closer inspection tomorrow. The big observation is that all the seam sealer is so dried up and shrunken, there are gaps everywhere (the media I used doesn't take out the sealer). I'll have to do a Baja71 and get it all out with dental tools.

I took a quick look at the right corner. Anyone ever replace that? It seems like it has spot welds all over the place that are difficult to get to.

 

[Fireball05]

I picked the seam sealer out of my quarter panels with a dental tool. It was not very much fun. I do not envy you if you're going to do the whole car that way!!!

 

[77-302]

Mine had already been painted over, forgot about the plating. And I actually just started a thread asking about having some misc parts costed, the door latches being amongst them.

One quick tip I used with the impact. Give it a few blows coming out, and then a blow or two going back in. On one of my screws that was being stubborn, the blow back in is what actually knocked it loose.

X2, for mine I tried PB blaster from the back and the front, I tried heat with a propane torch and was mostly working with a mechanical impact and a 2.5lb mini sledge... no go... then I pulled the head off of my mechanical impact and noticed it was a 1/2" drive... stuck it on the end of my air impact and prayed... they all came out with no issue...

 

[AZ73]

Long day prepping. Thanks to all who suggest the #4 Phillips with an impact wrench. The door latches came right out. Did the inspection. The PS rocker is toast and needs to be replaced. The DS has a few pinholes, but that means it's probably shotgun blast pitting on the inside so that will be replaced also. The right tail light housing is toast also so that has to go. At least the left side is OK. The floors have no holes, but do have some minor pitting. I'm going to metal2metal the pits.. Same with the top. The PO put some kind of roof rack on it with shag carpeting for a gasket. One side was fine, the other had some minor pitting but no holes. Metal2metal for that also. Actually it had 4 1/4 inch holes from the screws he used to mount the rack. Those will be welded. Spent most of the day with a wire wheel and pick taking out the seam sealer along the door jambs, floors, and front. It was warm and sunny so I parked it outside which helped heat up the sealer. Seems to be some kind of bronze brazing on the windshield (see arrow). Seam sealer came off OK, but wow, there is a ton of it. Under the dash it looks like they put it on with a mop. That's where I'll start tomorrow. Interesting stamp on the firewall. I want to get it all off so I can shoot it in primer before I start on the rockers and tail light housing.

 

[NicksTrix]

try a heat gun and scraper for your glue and deadener under the dash.
might want to consider a good sealant to paint into your seams before you get into your bodywork.
www.buykbs.com makes some great products that will help your project out and keep it around for the next 40.

kbs also makes a spray "cavity coater" that works well for shooting inside panels.