Barrier Hose Elimination / Metal Nipple to Fuel Line Solution

[FoMoCoBronCo]

I’m working on running new fuel lines on my carbureted ’71. I just upgraded my main tank to the 23G and my aux to NWMP’s 12G. I’ve been researching the various fuel line solutions and regardless of what you choose (OEM nylon, metal, braided, etc.), I still haven’t found a good solution to eliminate the rubber “barrier hoses” or “connector hoses” between the fuel lines and all the various barbs and nipples.

In my mind, these 5” – 10” hoses are the weak links in a fuel line system that will not only degrade within 2-5 years, but also present weak connection points for the chances of a leak.

By my count, I’ve got 11 “barrier hoses” in my OEM setup: 2 tank to fuel line hoses, 3 fuel selector switch hoses, 4 inline fuel filter hoses (1 before and 1 after the pump), 1 fuel pump to fuel line hose, and 1 fuel line to carb hose.

I’ve searched the forum extensively with no luck as to how to handle the connection points. I know they make quick connects for some of these junctions, but I have yet to find a highly-endorsed method for connecting fuel line to the metal nipples protruding from the fuel tanks, filters, pumps, and carb, without the use of a short section of rubber and a couple hose clamps.

I’m not sure if this is possible, but my initial thought has been, why don’t I heat up the end of my nylon line, then “press” it onto the barbs. When it cools, it should re-form around the nipple. I could even add a hose clamp behind the nipple end for added protection. The immediate drawback I see is the difficulty of disassembly if access is ever needed (changing fuel senders, etc.)

Can anyone provide any product recommendations, helpful threads/videos, or a review of my idea?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Just as a test, I heated up an in-line fuel filter and my 3/8 nylon fuel hose. With a little bit of pressure, I was able to slide the nipple into the hose. When it cooled, the connection felt incredibly solid. I pressurized it with my 100 psi air tank, and it blew my thumb off the end of the fuel filter before any air leaked from around the connection.


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[m_m70]

guess you could convert it all to PTFE hose and AN fittings........

 

[nvrstuk]

My concern with heating the nylon hose is that some of it may "glob" up when pressing it on and partially or completely block the flow unbeknownst to you.

Other thing is every time you need to replace a filter like pictured, you'd have to replace the ENTIRE pc of nylon line. Then you get to heat the hose and of course it's gas line so you need to deal with that potential disaster when using a heat gun .

Why not go with threaded fittings and use nothing but serviceable AN fittings?

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

My concern with heating the nylon hose is that some of it may "glob" up when pressing it on and partially or completely block the flow unbeknownst to you.

Other thing is every time you need to replace a filter like pictured, you'd have to replace the ENTIRE pc of nylon line. Then you get to heat the hose and of course it's gas line so you need to deal with that potential disaster when using a heat gun .

Why not go with threaded fittings and use nothing but serviceable AN fittings?

So, I thought about that type of connection I tested out on maintenance parts (pump & filters). I think the go to there would be some sort of a quick connect to adapt the nylon tubing to the in-line filters and to the pump. For all the other areas (tanks and selector valve), I could just leave some sort of a service loop with extra material if I ever needed to cut and reinstall.

The problem with PFTE line and fittings is the cost. Cost of line, adapters, tools, etc.

Nylon is dirt cheap and lasts a lifetime. I already have a heat gun, so that’s a sunk cost. I’m just looking to get rid of all the barrier houses by either hooking the nylon directly to the metal nipples, or by utilizing a fitting. But so far, my search for a fitting that connects to a metal nipple has yielded no results (outside of the barrier hose solution)


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[nvrstuk]

Brake line is dirt cheap and also lasts for decades. Easy to bend, tighter radiuses than the nylon, more heat resistant, less chance of scraping/scuffing and super easy to repair.

Look at a brake system and notice the number of connections fittings.

Connections aren't an issue on the most important system on your EB.

Trying to put loops or enough extra length in the nylon for required service of a filter down the road is imo, not even close to being worth it.

Just saying.

 

[FoMoCoBronCo]

Brake line is dirt cheap and also lasts for decades. Easy to bend, tighter radiuses than the nylon, more heat resistant, less chance of scraping/scuffing and super easy to repair.

Look at a brake system and notice the number of connections fittings.

Connections aren't an issue on the most important system on your EB.

Trying to put loops or enough extra length in the nylon for required service of a filter down the road is imo, not even close to being worth it.

Just saying.

That makes sense. What fitting would you use to connect the metal nipples that come out of the tanks and fuel selector valve to the metal line?


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[nvrstuk]

High pressure efi rated hose with the appropriate clamps with enough hose to allow easy maintenace for tank removal.

Then go from the hose to brake flare and run brake line or your choice to the pump, filter, carb.

Some guys here have done some pretty awesome looking fuel line setups here.

I run mine inside the frame since the ice rips stuff off in the winter

 

[bronco italiano]

Some items are simply wear items for the reason of perhaps dampening vibrations/inability to connect the tank steel outlet to your desired choice. I use steel lines with compression fittings to Marine fuel line in critical areas and fuel injection line for the higher pressure. Maintenance will always be there. Think about the new cars, transmissions are totally sealed and non-serviceable now. For clamps I only use oetiker clamps.