Best & Cheapest 44 Front Axle?

[Bukin 67]

I broke a chrome moly axle and threw in a stock one on the trail. Next trip out I broke the stock one, so I've got to replace it with a chrome moly 44 front axle assy. - inner & outer complete & assembled.

Anyone know any deals? Who has the best & least expensive at the same time? Should I look for a used?

You input is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[DirtDonk]

Don't have an answer for you, but just out of curiosity, where are you breaking them, and what size tires and gears are you running?
Are the u-joints letting go, or are the axles breaking at the shaft or splines?

Thanks

Paul

 

[fordguy]

Driven Auto Parts in the above vendor section gave me a good deal on some axles to fit my chevy outers. Give him a call he will tell you what is up with the axle market.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Don't have an answer for you, but just out of curiosity, where are you breaking them, and what size tires and gears are you running?
Are the u-joints letting go, or are the axles breaking at the shaft or splines?

Thanks

Paul

^^^^^
What he said.

There are about 3 levels of axle shafts for the D44
Stock 260 undersized U-joint
Cut down full size big U-joint or Yukon
Then the biggest and most expensive quality alloy axles that everyone one is the greatest and the worst depending on which way the wind is blowing.

The best axle in the world won't do you any good if you are putting crap U-joints in it. Generally when you shatter a U-joint it will go ahead and destroy the rest of the axle as well.

 

[Rustytruck]

I am just guessing here that it’s the driver side short shaft. If that’s the case use the Ford f150 short shaft it has the bigger u-joint. It’s all Spicer stuff.
It’s cheaper and easier to stack a few rocks and get a straighter shot at your obstacles than powering the rig with your steering hard over. If your running trails that won’t let you do this then you might as well start looking for upgrading to a Dana 60. In your profile and pictures it look’s like you have a 351 and banging rock the 44 is going to have a hard time keeping up with that without allot of fineness.

 

[Bukin 67]

I'm running a 302/ C-4, D-20 (stock), 4.56 with ARB's, 35's

The first break was the pass. side at the outer u-joint. Both shafts ends were destroyed as broncobowsher stated.

Second time was a temporary stock replacement shaft, and I broke the inner. I haven't pulled it out yet until I get the new one so I can drive it if need be, so I don't know the extent of the break.

The first break, I got myself into a jamb at the bottom of a steep hill, nosed-in, turned to the left and binding up too much.

The 2nd break was a little different situation, but not bad enough to break a chrome moly for sure. I was in reverse and didn't have that much torque on it.

I originally put good quality u-joints on them to not be 'the weakest link' and I intend to do so again.

 

[broncomikem]

I'm running Yukon Chrome moly's and super joints I bought from complete off road. They have pretty good prices if you buy them as generic, they are still yukons. I run a 302,c-4, 4:88's locked front and rear,and 36" swampers and have beat them pretty good on some 5+ trails in the blackhills of south dakota with no issues. You can find Complete Offroad on E-Bay. Good luck.