Best option for ignition-coil wire replacement

[Cready1]

I have been working through an electrical problem that started with the starter and that has been resolved now I believe I have a bad resistor wire from the ignition to coil since it will start but dies when it goes to run and I have tested the voltage at the coil when in run and I get 0 volts...so now what is the best option to fix this 1) splice into the red green wire from ignition run to a ballast resistor and run to coil 2) get a coil that works with 12 volts
And run a straight wire to it from the red/green at the ignition and bypass any resistors.. These are the two options I have read about on here if there are more please let me know...

 

[patterdale]

Sounds like an ignition switch problem more than wiring. I'm sure that those with more experience than I will jump in and confirm my diagnosis or correct it.

 

[DirtDonk]

What year is your Bronco? Just asking in case there is a way to narrow it down more by making sure it's not the switch (as patterdale said), the resistor section of the wire, or the engine compartment section (regular wire) of the wire.
Or just one of the connectors in-between.

My first choice (should it turn out to be the wire) would be to get a coil that takes 12 volts and just run regular wire.
But that probably won't work if you're still running points in your distributor. Might make it a good time to upgrade to Pertronix or it's like.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Cready1]

It's a 73 with all stock ignition I have replaced the ignition switch and same problem it fires up in start but when the key goes to run it dies out, I've read in a few places of running a jumper wire from the battery to coil and see if it runs then, will that narrow it down to the coil wire if I do that. In regards to going to 12 volt coil would I need to get rid of points and add pertonix? Thanks so much for all the help as you can tell electronics are not one of my strengths...

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, both the coil and the points/condensers can be damaged by too much voltage.
Though, and Viper can correct me if I'm wrong here, I think the theory goes that if you're running a coil matched to the voltage, the points aren't as likely to be over burdened because there is enough internal resistance in the coil to take care of that.

I'm not sure how that goes, but it just seems like a good idea to upgrade to electronic anyway. It's not that expensive (easy for me to say with your money!) as upgrades go, and you should never have to fiddle with it after it's initial setting.
And you keep a set of points mounted to their plate in the glove box for emergencies, and you're good to go.

Paul

 

[Cready1]

Well looks like its time for a ignition upgrade. Is the Jump wire to coil a good way to narrow down the problem?

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes. It's a legitimate test to see if something's wrong with the circuit between the ignition switch and coil
Disconnecting the Brown wire from the starter relay's "I" post will also eliminate anything wrong with the relay.

Just remember that to turn the engine back off, you have to pull the wire. Key won't work anymore. Strange the first time you turn the key off and the engine keeps running.

And of course, don't leave the wire connected when the engine is not running or you can make some ignition components very unhappy.
Generally speaking, you don't want to run the engine or leave the wire connected for more than a few minutes anyway. I ran my old stock ignition for weeks this way, and had no issues. But there are many more that have run theirs this way for only a short time and had the coil melt down.

Of course, a volt-meter can do most of the same things, and then some. So one of those will come in handy for any Bronco owner.

Paul