Better or Best Locking Hubs?

[jckkys]

Several venders I asked about replacing my locking hubs advised Warn Premiums, Mile Markers,and others. They all seem to do the same job, in the same way. Some have what looks like aluminum splines. They may be stainless, or hard chrome but I can't tell. The salesman at the off road store was only willing to say that the more expensive ones are better. Some have metal locking dial others have plastic dials like the OE hubs. Some lock with a 1/4 turn some need to be rotated 1/2 turn or more. What is preferable? Why?
The Dana-Spicers seem strong and dependable. The dial is sometimes hard to turn but, even tho faded, the plastic does the job. The internal parts are hard steel. They can rust but the internal splines in the spindle have been more prone to rust than the other parts. Heat from the disc brakes may be cooking the grease.
The need for regular maintenance is a PITA. Do anyone's hubs allow longer intervals between clean and lube sessions?

 

[allenfahey]

OEM Dana-Spicers are hands down the strongest. Keep them lubed up and they are easy to turn.

 

[jckkys]

It sounds like the advice to go after market was economically motivated. It's just not my economy. With all the replacement hubs on the market you would think the Dana-Spicers were a short term part, like tires. When I take them apart I don't see any real wear. All the hardened steel parts look to me like they can go another 35 yrs. easily. It's good to know I'm not alone. The O rings do harden but I found a store that specializes in V belts, ball bearings, and O rings.

 

[Apogee]

OEM are arguably the strongest of the Warn, Milemarker, etc crowd, although the new Yukon Hardcore hubs might beat them out...they certainly cost a lot more. Time will tell.

 

[DirtDonk]

I say stick with the stock ones as long as it's an option.
We sell Warn hubs for those that need them, as the stock ones are not readily available as a replacement item.

And you're right. With proper maintenance they should last the full life of the vehicle. I've never had grease "burn off" or go away for any other reason. Maybe you're not putting enough in? Or are you in the habit of crossing streams and rivers? In your area, moisture intrusion would not seem like a big problem, so I wondered about the amount of grease. Or the type?
There are some greases that have a higher water-resistance rating. If rust has been an issue for you, I would say try that type of grease next go-round.

With regard to the 1/4 turn vs 3/4 turn Warns (Standard vs Premium) I much prefer the plastic capped standard ones simply because of the 1/4 turn function.
And, for me at least, the plastic knob is much easier on the fingers than the metal knob is.
Internally, the function and material are seemingly identical.

Doesn't hurt that they're less expensive too!

Paul

 

[SteveL]

Milemarker ultimates were the strongest but they discontinued em. The new yukons look nice. I think its dynatrak also makes an all steel hub but not for the 44 yet.

 

[bronconut73]

I'd love to keep my stockers forever and they do work fine but with everything else really coming together on my eb with new wheels, tires, brakes, etc...the stock hubs just "look" awful. The chrome is beyond shot and the plastic has turned pink....."pink!".

 

[kc15842]

I beleive you can still buy the plastic. I'll take a quick look and post.

 

[kc15842]

Bronco graveyard

 

[1975 BRONCO]

Replacement O-Rings

Anybody have info on where to get replacement stock O-rings for the stock red hubs?

 

[73azbronco]

OEM is best, but if you need replacements, Warn premiums suck. The chrome peeled off the internal parts leaving me a twenty minute cleanup, went with mile marker, much better construction, no chinsy chrome.

 

[bronconut73]

Bronco graveyard

Neato. That would look nice.

 

[jckkys]

In Arizona we have very few streams. We have flooded roads when it rains. The lack of rain means storm sewers are deemed too expensive so run off is above the surface. Cars and people get washed away every year. As I said the O rings get hard, so the water gets in. The surface rust on the interior splines of the spindles may be from that water. I get my replacement O rings from a specialty store by sight comparison with the old ones. I wish someone made a rebuild kit. The grease I use is the high temp disc brake wheel bearing type. It seemed the logical choice. I'm going to look for stainless hex drive screws to improve the appearance. Rust in the desert is almost always surface rust. You see older vehicles that look terrible but they are actually solid. The sun can reduce a tire to nothing but bead wire and belts in a few years. Paint is eaten off by the sun and the metal turns rust red. But that's all that happens. Those of us who grew up in the rust belt assume the rust came from the inside out. That's not how it works here.

 

[cs_88]

Anybody have info on where to get replacement stock O-rings for the stock red hubs?

Right here.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-18285-lock-out-o-rings-66-77-set-of-4-.html

 

[jckkys]

I glad to see BG has the O rings. That's easier than guessing which ones look right. I think some silicone grease to help the O rings seal the water out. I still have the owner's manual for my '68 and for my '77 and they say to clean out the locking hubs after fording a stream. So the hubs weren't expected to keep all the water out.

 

[blwngsket]

I have the Yukons. Pretty bad ass 300m material. And if (BIG IF) they break they lock and keep power to the tire instead of unlocking and 3 wheeling your rig.
Not too cheap tho, but one less thing to worry about..(although I still carry a spare set of Warns)

 

[rootbeer]

I bought some O rings at the local hardware store 2 for .99 cents, seemed to fit ok time will tell I guess if they are good enough quality.

 

[Rustytruck]

Dont forget to replace the copper washers under the socket head allen screws if your trying to seal things up.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good advice. I also took to wiping a small amount of sealer around the perimeter between the chrome bezel and drive hub. Not enough to lock them in place and make servicing hard, but enough to seal the loose-fitting components.
Even with brand new OE style seals under the chrome, they are often loose and floppy.

I also pack the spindle with grease completely whenever I have things that far apart.
Any excess that pushes out when installing the spindle over the axle just goes towards repacking the bearings.
The packed spindle is less likely to let water pass all the way into the hub area, and even when it does get in there it's not as damaging due to all the grease coating the surfaces.

Paul

 

[pbwcr]

The racer has Yukon hubs. Much stronger than other brands due to chromalloy internals. Cost is around $100
They do not inadvertently unlock like other brands under hard race conditions.
PaulW