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Body Off With 2 Post Lift?

broncojack

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Sr. Member
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Sep 7, 2001
Messages
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I have access to a 2 post lift where my Bronco is being stored and would like to use it to take the body off the frame.
My question is where to lift it from?
I have seen people use a 4x4 piece of wood under the rockers to lift it.
Is this safe?
Are there any other ways other than the rocker?

I would like to lift it with the doors and front clip still attached.

It's a rust free Bronco and I have done a Body Off before so I know about the bracing and what to remove before the lift. Thanks
 

Hotrodjohn

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Feb 12, 2016
Messages
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I put mine on by putting both arms of the lift on each side under the rockers spread out as much as possible. I think I used some pieces of 2 x 4.
I had the doors on and closed and front clip on with fenders and hood. I also took another one off the same way. Both times I had no problems with this.
 

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1971BroncoSport

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These are the best I have.

I braced the doors.
 

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Steve83

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The targets are the body mounts - that's where it's built to support its own weight. The closer you get to them, and the more of them you can use to lift it, the easier it will be on the body.
 

904Bronco

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Yes ^^^ need to hit body mounts and brace the tub when the doors are removed.
 

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Rusty_S85

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Aug 3, 2019
Messages
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Every body we have lifted off the frame at work all the way up to F250/350 cabs we just simply place the 2 post lift arms as far apart as possible on the rocker arm pinch welds and lifted up.
 

Steve83

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Newer vehicle bodies are built MUCH stronger than these antiques, and from better/thicker steel, with higher-quality welds, on better jigs to keep them aligned. And a pickup cab can't twist & sag like a full-length single-walled SUV. So even if an eB body can survive being lifted by the rockers, you wouldn't want to because it could distort it. It's always better to support a body by its body mounting points.
 

Rusty_S85

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Aug 3, 2019
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Newer vehicle bodies are built MUCH stronger than these antiques, and from better/thicker steel, with higher-quality welds, on better jigs to keep them aligned. And a pickup cab can't twist & sag like a full-length single-walled SUV. So even if an eB body can survive being lifted by the rockers, you wouldn't want to because it could distort it. It's always better to support a body by its body mounting points.

Still, you are lifting a body, sure it may flex even new vehicle bodies flex just the same. The trick is to not go opening and closing doors once you get the body lifted off the frame the doors will help hold the body in place.

Twisting and sagging is something even old cars do going down the road. My 56 Fairlane for instance, Ford installed a steady rest engine mount on the front cross member cause the frame and body going down the road flexes up and down. This mount helps to use the engine and engine mounts to limit that movement and this is a full sized full frame car.

Then there are those such as the unitized body vehicles such as camaros and trans ams and firebirds, you can lift them by the pinch weld and they will sag just the same but yet no harm done.

I feel people tend to over think this when lifting a body. Sure its nice to lift a vehicle by the mounting points to the frame but you don't have to do that to just simply lift a body off the frame. If you want to twirl the body around for restoration then yes you should have it bolted in place via the body mounts. But a simple straight up and down movement of the body to get the frame out from under it, there is no real need to lift it by the body mount unless you have a horrible body with a lot of structural rust in it then yea don't try to lift the body by the rocker panels.

If you have that kind of damage or if you are just concerned about lifting by the rocker panels another option is to use straps as a lifting sling. Use the two post lift to attach straps to under the body over the frame and raise the body via lifting straps, it spreads the weight out more across the bottom of the body.
 

Steve83

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No, new bodies don't flex just the same, for the reasons I already stated. And no, a Bronco doesn't flex the same when it's assembled & driving as it does when it's in pieces, and being handled & moved. And no, a 10-to-20-year-older worse-designed vehicle isn't a good example of how a Bronco or a later vehicle (designed using finite-element analysis) will flex. Nor do unibodies flex at all like the body removed from a cab-on-chassis vehicle does.

No one said lifting a Bronco body by the rockers would destroy it - only that there are SAFER ways to lift it, which is what he asked in his original post. Did you read it? %)

Straps would be MUCH riskier than even the rockers because they not only spread the forces onto surfaces that aren't designed for it; they also apply forces in DIRECTIONS that can do more damage.
 

Rusty_S85

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No, new bodies don't flex just the same, for the reasons I already stated. And no, a Bronco doesn't flex the same when it's assembled & driving as it does when it's in pieces, and being handled & moved. And no, a 10-to-20-year-older worse-designed vehicle isn't a good example of how a Bronco or a later vehicle (designed using finite-element analysis) will flex. Nor do unibodies flex at all like the body removed from a cab-on-chassis vehicle does.

No one said lifting a Bronco body by the rockers would destroy it - only that there are SAFER ways to lift it, which is what he asked in his original post. Did you read it? %)

Straps would be MUCH riskier than even the rockers because they not only spread the forces onto surfaces that aren't designed for it; they also apply forces in DIRECTIONS that can do more damage.

Well its quite obvious you are not capable of thinking outside of the box. You read straps and you are thinking the straps are being wrapped around the body when the fact is you leave the arms locked away from the body and use the straps more as a cradle across the bottom no different than putting a piece of wood under the body to contact across more of the bottom of the body of said vehicle. The straps are easier as they can pass through thinner areas which is quite common on old vehicles with crushed worn out body bushings.

10 to 20 year older vehicles are not a worse design they are actually quite stout as they were jacked up in the front and rear by the bumper. I am pointing out that all cars flex it is what they are designed to do. You take a old car and make it more rigid and it creaks and groans.

Case in point a 78 trans am I did at work the guy used metal subframe mounts, welded in a sub frame connector and used the rally bars from the control arm to the firewall. that car was so stiff after all those mods that he did for what he claimed was a street car going down a smooth road produced creaks and groans compared to before where the car road smooth and was quiet.

Even new cars flex as nothing is rigid. Bodies are mounted in rubber, frames while rigid still have flex to them as well.

I think you believe that broncos are some unique animal that is different than every vehicle that's ever been made and that's not the case. When cars are built the bodies are hung via straps and hoists till they are set down on the body and they are not connected to any body mounts like was presented. I got numerous old factory assembly line photos especially of fords that show this. To say that lifting by the rocker panels or to lift away from the body mounts when just lifting the body will cause damage is just laughable when the factory used to move bodies hung not by their body mounts down the assembly line.

As far as not reading what was said, he is it safe, any way lifting the body when lifting straight up is safe long as you are not lifting a swiss cheese body that is rotted out.

On the unibody, I will make a wager on that because ive raised numerous unibody vehicles on 2 posts lifts and you cant open the doors due to body flex and that's lifting by the subframes.
 
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JB Fab

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doesn't take much to build a support frame, seems like cheap insurance...
That way you could also lift from the top
 

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markw

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We did something similar to the above. In addition I have a winch on the cross member of the hoist as insurance. Once you get the arms positioned and the body braced it works well.
 

Bronco4x4

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Dec 21, 2009
Messages
620
My original rockers were good so we had the lift arms under them with wood blocks and the door openings braced together. The front end only had inner fender wells, skirts, and radiator support making it rear heavy. We tied the front down with ratchet straps to stabilize. The roll bar (front and rear) was welded in already. The new front floors, front/rear door posts were welded in prior to the lift. The tub was basically done prior to the lift and did not flex/misalign.
 

Hotrodjohn

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Found this pic.. Looking at the door lines, there appears to be no flex even with hardtop on it.... Don't know why pic came out sideways.
 

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Hotrodjohn

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corrected pic. I had no bracing inside. I just closed the doors and watched it as it went up off the body cart and didn't see much, if any, flexing. Took the body off my other 75 with same results.
 

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mustanggarage

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I lifted mine like this. I bought some D rings and bolted them to the seat mount holes. I left the doors on, but removed the front end. I will be removing the body again for paint soon and when I put it back on I will leave the fenders and grill on. I will not leave the hood on. I intend to run a couple additional straps to the tailgate latch and possibly to the wind shield anchor bolts to support it against flexing. but this worked very well for me.

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