body removal questions

[Hinmaton]

I’m thinking about yanking my tub so I can more clearly fabricate my link suspensions.
3 link front with a 609 and 4 link rear with a full float 609.

As some may know, my tub is @ 17” longer than stock.

I have looked at many of the body removal threads and feel confident about the support, but all the threads I see illustrates the process with the front clip off.
Can I do it with the front clip on?
If no, what are the steps to remove the front clip?

Hinmaton


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[904Bronco]

I have lifted the body off the frame as a unit.
Doors on and off... But there needs to be bracing in place in the door opening if no doors. I have also gone across the opening with bracing.
At minimum, you need to catch the two mid body mount holes if using a two post lift. Check to see if it rocks, you may need to counterbalance the tub. (Hardtop on or off)
If the body is in the air, I don't open doors until it is back on the frame...
You don't say how you would lift it off, but proper bracing, going slow, with a little common sense goes a long way towards being Safe.

 

[Hinmaton]

I haven’t quite figured out how yet, tractor or build a gantry.
I note in the photo your front clip is off. Why take off the front clip when taking the body off? Is there a reason why everyone does this?

Hh


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[DirtDonk]

I think in most cases it’s to fix rust in those very common areas where the front clip meets the main tub.
The fact that the clip was removed ahead of time may have been because they wanted to get a start on things while it was still on the frame, might have already been working on it before deciding to remove the whole thing, or just coincidence.

 

[DirtDonk]

Of course, convenience is another reason. Not having all that stuff hanging out in front while you’re trying to lift the tub can just be easier. The front clip is attached in a very strong manner when there’s no rust involved. But since the only connection between the clip and the body are those two typically extremely rusty areas, lifting from the front is not always an option.
And because it’s not reinforced in multiple planes, you certainly wouldn’t want to rotate the body on a rotisserie just connected to the front and back. The inner fender aprons are welded to the kick panels and that’s the only connection.

 

[jmhend]

I think you can and should leave the front clip on. You should grab a few helpers if possible (you have my number) I would brace the rub, and you can suspend the tub with your tall jack stands, then use a tractor. I really think there are several options but it really depends on what you have available to you.

 

[Hinmaton]

My A pillars are a rabbit hole and I know if I pull my front clip I’m going down that hole.
Maybe I just should but I want to be done with project I started Jan 1 2021.

So, what’s to taking the front clip off?
What’s the process?


Hh


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[904Bronco]

I haven’t quite figured out how yet, tractor or build a gantry.
I note in the photo your front clip is off. Why take off the front clip when taking the body off? Is there a reason why everyone does this?

Hh


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I bought a shell of a Bronco, it was missing most everything... That is the only reason there is no frt clip on it

 

[Bronco-Brian]

Tractor, did I hear Tractor - Here's what I had in my archives of Bronco restoration. Could also pick-up from side if your reach is too short, or capacity is limited. Note the bracing - A real easy point of attachment is the hood hinge points and bolt steel angle to p/u seat belt mounts in the back if your dash is out of the way, otherwise, just brace the door openings. The lift fixture picks up the top door hinge bolt, plus 3 bolts along the top of the bed rails (2x - each side 8 bolts total). I've also used this fixture and lifted with an engine hoist from the side. Brian

 

[Hinmaton]

Tractor, did I hear Tractor - Here's what I had in my archives of Bronco restoration. Could also pick-up from side if your reach is too short, or capacity is limited. Note the bracing - A real easy point of attachment is the hood hinge points and bolt steel angle to p/u seat belt mounts in the back if your dash is out of the way, otherwise, just brace the door openings. The lift fixture picks up the top door hinge bolt, plus 3 bolts along the top of the bed rails (2x - each side 8 bolts total). I've also used this fixture and lifted with an engine hoist from the side. Brian

That’s brilliant. Nice cart too.


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[ba123]

Sorry to Hijack a thread, but seems silly to start a new one on this. I see lots of posts about a body cart and might use some of that info, I'll have a finished body to remove and if I can take it off without hurting the paint I think doing my engine and driveline will be a whole lot easier with it off.

If I had taller ceilings in my garage I'd consider a lift. I've thought about Quickjacks and could use them for other cars if I could find a way to make that work for this job and the Bronco in general. The newer TL ones lift 24.5" and then the truck adapters add a little over 7" to that. That should probably be more than enough to get it off without the engine, I'm guessing, but maybe not so easy once it's on but I might be able to rig something up with some wood to give more height at that point since it's just the body, right?

If that won't work, I could possibly connect a winch to my ceiling in the garage, but it's a finished ceiling and only 100" high so would rather not. I could build a frame outside and attach a hoist to that if I need to? I've seen some remove bodies with an engine hoist, which I have, but this will be a freshly painted body...no way! I'd also assume it would be best to keep it all intact for support, or should I remove the hood (fiberglass) and fenders to lower the risk of damage?

Any help or guidance appreciated! I have some time before I have it back from body work and paint.

 

[Jaybr]

Maybe something like this? https://www.maxjax.com/


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[ba123]

Maybe something like this? https://www.maxjax.com/


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Saw that and cool, but I have a post tension floor in my garage and would not want to mess that up! Could get someone out to scan the mounting spots, but that makes me nervous.

 

[ba123]

Ok, never mind...my paint and body master says no, so no. I don't want to mess up his hard work and pay him to fix my screw ups. I'll have to figure it out with the body on.

 

[DirtDonk]

How deeply embedded are your tensioners? With the relatively small studs of the maxjax go that deep?

That said, I’m with your body man. I’ve seen too many people pull the bodies apart after paint, and never get them back together the same way.
Also, too much chance of flexing the main tub if you’re not overly careful.

Is this a full tilt restoration? Are you gonna be wanting to detail the frame later or is it already done?
This is just about working on the engine and drivetrain?

 

[ba123]

I really don't know how deep. I might be able to ask the builder. It would be really nice to have that, but it stil might not even be worth it since my ceiling is only 102"

Yeah, Frame all done already/. Did years ago and never finished the body. I really just wanted to be able to put the engine, trans, xfer and all stuff without a body but if I can't then I can't. I'll prob have to put in the engine outside and then wheel it in. Can I put engine and trans together with body on or easier from underneath?

I also emailed Quickjacks about a picture I found that shows extended truck adapters that would work plenty well for the Bronco. Looks like there is one additional spacer in there. If this works, it would get me all the way up as high as I could go, I think.

 

[DirtDonk]

I think that I have read here that most members on Classic prefer putting the engine and transmission in together from the top.
However, I’ve always found that with standard garage tools and a normal hoist, I prefer putting the engine in from the top as you would expect, but the transmission in afterwards from underneath.
It’s always been easier for me, however, I believe I’m in the minority of members here.