• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Bronco Pulls to the Left on Braking

Crainbow243

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
223
So my 75 Bronco was pulling to the left a lot on braking, So I did some diagnosis.

I added power brakes (TBP - Vacuum style) and replaced all steel lines on the front axle (looking like kink on the right side before). Braking power is amazing now, but still pulls to the left. I completely bled the entire system. PO said he put on new drum shoes and wheel cylinders all around, which it does look like he did.

So my question is, aren't these brakes self-adjusting? Or do I have to get in that right front brake and do some adjustments?
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Self adjusting mostly means that the brakes compensate for wear.

You need to adjust them at the beginning.

But even if adjusted the drum brakes tend to pull to a side, unlike discs.
 
OP
OP
Crainbow243

Crainbow243

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
223
ah... Now correct me if I am wrong, but you have to brake in reverse to get them to adjust (previous ones I had did that...).

Either way you are saying that I need to pull it apart and adjust?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,941
Yeah, the "self-adjusting" feature (aka oxy-moron) on these brakes was finicky at best. My brakes always stopped straight and true, because I'm a tinkerer by nature and was literally under the truck adjusting them every couple of weeks when it was my daily driver.
And no, I'm NOT exaggerating. I was literally the joke of the neighborhood for years because they thought I must not be able to get anything right or get a vehicle that could run without me working on it constantly. Wrong! I just wanted it to be perfect.
And if you've ever made a panic stop in an otherwise straight braking Early Bronco, you'll know what I mean.%):eek:

So yes, while some do adjust themselves like they're designed to, many don't. Hence most people's swap to discs. Not because they are more powerful (though they can be) but because they're easier to service and (if working properly) never need adjusting under normal use.

So on to your problem. Some possible causes of mild pulling:

1. Mis-adjusted brake shoes.
2. Contamination on one side.
3. Wheel bearing issue.
4. Suspension issue.
5. Tire wear.
6. Tire pressure
7. Tire failure (internally)
8. Something loose in the rear?

How bad is the pulling? Does it just gently shift the truck to one side? Or does it kind of yank the truck, and turn the steering wheel in your hands?
If no movement of the wheel, it's very possible that the pulling is from the rear. If the steering wheel moves noticeably in your hands, then it's likely in the front. The more pronounced the movement, the more likely it is to be the brakes than some of the other items I listed.

So first things first. Check the condition of the shoes in all four corners. If looking good, readjust them properly. The most important aspect of that is consistency. Consistent drag at all four corners, but side-to-side is most important.

Before inspecting them however, simply adjust them through the access ports on the back side. If this is all that's wrong, you'll be good to go.
If not, you'll need to inspect.

When checking the fronts, this requires removing the hub and bearings usually. This is a good thing if there's any doubt at all about the adjustment of them. Initially though, you could simply adjust the brakes through the access hole to avoid redoing the bearings, then test drive it to see if your pull is fixed. If so, you've just avoided re-adjusting the wheel bearings.
But don't put that project off forever. It's a good thing to know, and a good thing to get right.

Maybe even before you go in to do any of this other stuff though, check the air pressures in your tires and rotate them front to rear to see if it changes anything.
Also check for loose u-bolts and spring bolts. Neither of those are too likely, but are still definite possibilities.

Good luck.

Paul
 

Scoop

Contributor
Have Bronco, Will Travel
Joined
Feb 1, 2006
Messages
10,670
Loc.
Cuchara, CO
Cliff Notes version: You need to adjust by hand after a brake job. ;D

Use a brake spoon - you don't need to pull anything apart.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Cliff Notes version: You need to adjust by hand after a brake job. ;D

Use a brake spoon - you don't need to pull anything apart.

Many have used a flat blade screwdriver, but they're a bit more awkward.
 
OP
OP
Crainbow243

Crainbow243

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
223
Cliff Notes version: You need to adjust by hand after a brake job. ;D

Use a brake spoon - you don't need to pull anything apart.

Yeah thats what I figures so I went out and tuned them, all the way on the front right to the point where I couldn't spin it and did a test run and the wheel still pulls hard to the left. So I have my buddy sit in the car and hit the brake while it is jacked up and I try to spin it... yeah it does nothing... so something is wrong with that brake, its just not working at all.

It has been bled and all new lines to the wheel cylinder. PO stated he replaced all wheel cylinders... I guess I am going to have to pull the brake apart and troubleshoot.

Any advice on removing the hub? Get that big socket looking thing and take it apart?
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
So have you moved disc brakes to the top of the Bronco to-do list yet?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,941
...Any advice on removing the hub? Get that big socket looking thing and take it apart?

Yep.
The good thing about all the extra hassle is you get to inspect the front bearings and verify that they're re-adjusted to the correct Dana/Ford specifications.
If you're not sure about those, there are tons of threads, but we can run them down for you here as well.

Paul
 
OP
OP
Crainbow243

Crainbow243

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
223
So I did it, took the hub out and everything.... Not sure about adjustments, what adjustments are there?


Pull is gone! just have to work on bleeding and tuneing then correctly. Probably was the wheel cylinder, everything looked ok in there, but was fixed when I replaced the wheel cylinder
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,941
Success! Great to hear.

The wheel bearing adjustment is what I was referring to. It's not the same as a typical car or 2wd truck. Completely different.

How did you adjust yours?

Paul
 
OP
OP
Crainbow243

Crainbow243

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
223
I didn't adjust it... Took it out, greased it, put it back in... What did I miss?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,941
Well, the full adjustment procedure, if that's all you did.

1. The inner nut (the one with the pin sticking outward) goes in first and is torqued to 50 lbs while you spin the wheel. This is mainly for new bearings and races, but is still good practice for the setup.
2. Back off 90° or a quarter turn. Leave it there no matter how much you want to tighten it!:eek:
3. Install the locking ring so that one of the holes slips over the pin on the inner adjusting nut. If one does not line up, you can flip the washer (the holes are offset) first, or just reach in with a finger and give the inner nut a quick push until it lines up with the nearest hole.
4. Install the outer locking nut and tighten to at least 75 lbs. I think the spec is something like 75-105 lbs, but you get the picture. Any less than that and you risk the nut loosening up over time, because there are no locking tabs or anything like that.

So, after writing all that, I should ask, did you simply pull the drum off without removing the wheel bearings? Or did you pull the whole assembly?
It's very difficult, if not impossible in some cases, to remove the drum without the hub. But I've heard that some have done it successfully, so figured I'd ask.
If you did the whole thing, then the bearing adjustment procedure is pretty important.

Paul
 
OP
OP
Crainbow243

Crainbow243

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
223
Haha yeah I took the whole hub off, cleaned and greased the bearings, then just tightened it by feel.... I should probably 're-do it....
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,941
Well, if you did it by feel at the end, then you might by ok other than making sure the outer nut is torqued to spec.
What happens is the inner nut adjustment leaves the bearings very loose (like probably .040" clearance loose) but the outer nut literally squeezes and stretches the big beefy steel components enough to shrink that freeplay down to the specification (something like .006" or so, if I remember?) after full torque.
Double check that specification since I'm only going by mammaries.

If you only checked clearance with the inner nut adjustment, then yeah, time to go back and re-do it just to be sure. But if you checked your final results after torquing the outer nut, you're probably good to go.
The exception to that is if the outer nut is only torqued to some minimal amount. You definitely want to get at least 75 lbs on it to be sure. And yes, that much torque can be awkward sometimes, as the little tips like to pop out of the slots on the nuts. But if you hold it inward "with authority" while turning, you can do it.

If you got one of the wrenches, hopefully it's one of the ones with the outer "band" around the tips. This type seems easier to use than the traditional type with the tips that stick out past the end of the socket.

Have fun.

Paul
 
Top