Sorry, I should have clarified with those photos. What DirtDonk said is correct. The second image I posted is the close-up of the PCV baffle.Which baffle is for PVC and which is for fresh air source?
The deep baffle “chimney“ is the oil fill side. The shallow baffle is the PCV port.
At least that’s how the ones I’ve seen were set up.
I have the cover with the chimney on the passenger side. No issues for me so wondering if swapping them will help you.
Looking at those baffle pics again, they do have slots to allow the oil to drain and not build right?
It's still possible that a different baffle will help, but I don't think that's the problem.
Easiest way to figure this out is to swap covers or even better yet, slap an old stamped steel set on there first. This would rule out several things at once. If they don't allow enough clearance for your rockers (I have no idea what brand, alum or steel, etc) then stack two cork gaskets and silicone them together - dry and on the bench they will seal perfectly-especially since this is just for a test. Engine doesn't care where the pcv is, the air flow directioin just needs to be correct. Slap a different pcv in there from another rig you have also just for fun-quick and easy
I would test compression again when hot and more important, do a leak down test. Those numbers aren't very consistent OR very high for a new engine. I have no idea if it's a smog motor built with OE parts or what but those #'s are low which could be contributing to your oil consumption issue.
2 qts burned should be a huge, dark CLOUD following you as you drive. I am old enough to remember seeing clouds of smoke behind several cars each day when driving around. That's definitely frowned upon now and you can get a ticket for it. Watched a guy get pulled over as he was sitting in the left turn lane and a cop drove by, hung a U turn and promptly hit the light bar.
Anyway, check those things out cause 2 qts in that much mileage means unless you can't see past your rear bumper in your mirror that oil is not all getting burned.
I'll check to see how much is coming out without the PCV hooked up but with it it does have vacuum while idling. If the catch can ends up catching a lot of oil I will still pursue fixing the issue and not using a band aid like that. I was just planning to use it to confirm that is where the oil is going first. If oil is going there I'll swap the covers and check with the catch can again.Easiest way to track is to swap on the ugly stamped steel covers. Heck, don't even hook them up if it means you need to buy more hose & stuff.
Also, put your hand over the vent hole to feel how much air is blowing by. But putting the old covers on before you do the catch can will let you know what the problem is before you cover it up & never narrow it down and know the cause???
It certainly looks like you're getting some weeping from an oil leak:Some of the discoloration is just missing paint, but it looks like oil is dripping out of the header flange. I haven't found any oil above that flange that is headed that way. No other flange has oil on it like that, header seemed tight last night but I'll check it again tonight when its cold.
Yeah there is a small oil leak at the back of that valve cover, but the oil doesn't seem to be taking a path that leads to the header. It all seems to be heading away from the header and down. I picked up oil & filter last night to do another oil change, so I'll report back when that's done. I haven't dumped the coolant but I did look in the top of the rad & overflow didn't see any oil and the level hasn't increased.It certainly looks like you're getting some weeping from an oil leak:
Have you checked your coolant for oil? How about dumping the oil to check for milkiness?
All of the plugs are covered in oil not just those 2. I'm a little concerned about 5 but I'm going to just keep putting miles on it and see what happens good to know about the seating time for the rings.How do the plugs look on #5 and 8? That oil after the 15 minute drive COULD be from the gasket and places you couldn't get clean. I would suspect the plugs to be NASTY in #8 if that much oil is going through.
Cast iron rings take a long time to seat.....long time meaning close to 1000 miles or so......
#5 looks like a problem to me.......
Tim
Running conventional right now, I might switch after break in.Maybe longer if running synthetic oil?
Every cylinder was into the crankcase, so it's rings. Hopefully just need more time to fully seat.When you did the cylinder leakage test did you check to see where the air was leaking??
If so what are the results?
That's the plan now that I know where the bulk of the oil is going.I would just focus on that PCV/oil issue for now and see what happens after break in. Your compression after break-in is what's important and you're gonna have trouble if you keep allowing that oil in there. The numbers just don't matter right now.
I have a factory set on another engine sitting in the corner that I'll take them from for testing. Probably wont get them swapped until sometime next week though.Go get some factory cover from the scrap yard......put them on and see if the issue goes away.........
I would consider running the system open with the catch can in place to clean out all that oil in the cylinders so the rings can have a chance at seating.....
Tim
Meaning let it be open to the air. Disconnect the PCV from the carb. Plug the carb....Just let the air from the blow by exit into the air........I ran my Samurai 1.3L that way for a couple years. I just capped off the intake port and put a filter on the PCV side and let it vent into the air. Yes I got some oil smell but that engine had major blow by.What do you mean by running the system open?