Bronco won't start----now starts, but have a new question?

[ksbronco75]

Had it out yesterday and ran fine. haven't had any motor trouble in awhile. My brother went to start it today to show it off at graduation and it wouldn't start. i thought he must've flooded it, so after i came back from graduation tried again, no luck. Batteries fine, its trying to turn, just wont fire up. Any recommendations?

 

[fmcpeters]

Are you getting spark down to the plugs? Is the Carb getting fuel?

 

[ksbronco75]

gas yes. spark, no. I was gonna change spark plugs here when i got some spare time, but any other suggestions? the coil is original still, had an aftermarket one, but kept getting too hot and shutting off on road trips.

 

[fmcpeters]

When was the last time you changed the cap and rotor, check them out. Also you can test your coil if you have a meter, to make sure thats not the issue. What kind of distributor are you running? If points, make sure they arent burnt up and gapped correctly.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm

 

[ksbronco75]

cap and wires were all replaced in august. checked em out. look good, no corrosion or anything like that. Gonna try a different coil tomorrow, and ill test the coil i have tonight when my bro gets back with my voltmeter.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Is it duraspark?

Coil can be tested with an ohmmeter. 1-2 ohms between the small terminals and about 8K ohms between either of those and the high tension terminal.

 

[ksbronco75]

neither are durasparks. One is a factory one, the other is a msd blaster 2 i found off one in a junkyard last summer, never seemed to run right with that blaster on it for road trips so i went back to factory. on 2k the terminals read .003 and when i test the high tension terminal it doesnt read, just stays at 1. not really skilled with the ohmeter, so i might not even have it on right settings

 

[ksbronco75]

factory coil test's out good. gonna replace the spark plugs tomorrow. them things looked pretty shitty, possibly have a cylinder burning oil from the looks. hopefully tomorrow will yield better results

 

[Viperwolf1]

neither are durasparks. One is a factory one, the other is a msd blaster 2 i found off one in a junkyard last summer, never seemed to run right with that blaster on it for road trips so i went back to factory. on 2k the terminals read .003 and when i test the high tension terminal it doesnt read, just stays at 1. not really skilled with the ohmeter, so i might not even have it on right settings

A lower setting will give better resolution of the reading for low ohms. For example 300 ohms or 1x when reading the small terminals. The high tension terminal needs a higher setting like 30K ohms or 100x.

What type of ignition system, duraspark (factory electronic) or points?

 

[ksbronco75]

duraspark ignition system

 

[Viperwolf1]

Make sure all the connectors are in good condition. They tend to crack. Napa has replacement connectors.

You can test the stator in the distributor with an ohmmeter. Unplug it then measure between the orange and purple wires. Should see 400-800 ohms. Also measure between either of those wires and the black wire. That should be more than 70K ohms.

You might be able to have the module checked at an auto parts store.

Other things to look at: make sure distributor shaft is turning with the engine, make sure you see something close to 12V on the positive side of the coil with the key on.

 

[ksbronco75]

thanks, ill get some stuff tomorrow and check it out!

 

[Broncosis1973]

Don't for get to check if your fuel tank switch is in the right position. I went to start mine and forgot I had switched it while doing some cleaning. I've learned to not always assume the worst.

 

[ksbronco75]

fuel switch was first thing i checked. ive done that before too. new plugs, connectors were good, still wont start. i did the ol hold a screw driver in between coil plug and distributor and didnt see a spark, have 12v to the coil with key on. the screw in the high tension terminal seems white, or aluminum metal, not sure if that needs cleaned and if so what with. pretty annoyed. need this to start to get the windsheild replaced, and top tinted wednesday morning!!

 

[fmcpeters]

Ohms check your wire from the coil to distributor? If you got some corrosion should be able to just brush it off. Pull a plug put the wire back on and see if the plug is sparking? Have you tested the module? You should be able to find a parts store to test it out for you.

 

[ksbronco75]

12V to coil. no spark from plug while trying to start it. next step?

 

[Viperwolf1]

12V to coil. no spark from plug while trying to start it. next step?

See post #11.

 

[shamu]

Have you replaced the rotor in the dist. It is a shot in the dark, but my friend had a similar case just like yours. And I had somebody elses bronco handy and did a swap and it fired right up. And are you using NAPA parts or autozone parts?

 

[ksbronco75]

Make sure all the connectors are in good condition. They tend to crack. Napa has replacement connectors.

You can test the stator in the distributor with an ohmmeter. Unplug it then measure between the orange and purple wires. Should see 400-800 ohms. Also measure between either of those wires and the black wire. That should be more than 70K ohms.

You might be able to have the module checked at an auto parts store.

Other things to look at: make sure distributor shaft is turning with the engine, make sure you see something close to 12V on the positive side of the coil with the key on.

not a engine guy by any means, so some words already have me lost.

connectors - good
stator(no clue) what that is, don't feel comfortable unplugging an unknown. found it, just not sure the proper way to do it.
no clue what module is that has been brought up a few times.

i have 1 auto parts store(NAPA) close to my town, hard to get in due to work. what should i bring them?

 

[Viperwolf1]

The stator is the coil of wire in the distributor that tells the module when to fire the coil. They do go bad and when it happens you have no spark. You can test it the way mentioned above.

The module is the thing on the rear of the driver side inner fender with 6-7 wires going into it. It reads the signals from the stator and uses them to turn the coil current on and off. When the coil current is on the coil builds an electromagnetic field. When the current is turned off the field collapses into the high tension lead and out to one of the spark plugs. Bring this module to the parts store for testing. If it's bad make sure the new one has the same color plastic where the wires go into it.