Calling all Body Work Gurus!!!!

[Bronco Wild]

I have my Bronco almost completely sanded down to bare metal. This is my first time going the POR route so I would like some input and suggestion on direction at this point. My next step will be Metal Ready then POR the whole rig. Here are my questions and consider I had quite a bit of rust, still in some places and cut and welded in new pieces in the larger areas.

1) POR 15-Silver or Black? Silver has metal filler in it which I suspect I need in my situation. Anything to consider as far as sanding, then priming? They say wet sand with 600 grit before priming?

2) Seam sealer. What kind? Eastwood has gun or brushable, which is recommended? I am Herculining my tub after POR and seam sealer. Does Hercliner adhere fine to POR?

3) Body Filler. This Bronco isn't my "show truck", so the old fenders that are near shot are going to be salvaged one more time. So I have heavy filling.
POR Straightline, Eastwood (Evercoat-Rage)??? Any secondary or finer fillers?

4) Primer. POR Tie Coat or Self Etching?

Recommendations other than this as far as sanding POR and/or primers?

Thanks!!!

 

[Bronco Wild]

Help ?:? ?:? ?:?

 

[2badrotties]

I'll try to help a little. One you have it down to bare steel you need to clean it before you do anything. POR makes some stuff called marine clean but you can probably use wax and grease remover. ALWAYS make sure you wash AND DRY ! If you don't dry with a seperate rag you are just pushing stuff around from one place to another. Metal ready is next. I like to scrub it around just a little with a scotch brite pad. Rinse next, with water ! The metal ready will leave a zinc phosphate coating on your sheetmetal. Next apply your POR 15, brush or spray it on. NEXT step - If you want to coat the POR15 with anything you need to use tie-coat primer over the POR15 OR you can spray a coat of epoxy primer over it just before it dries. Don't do this too early , just before it dries is when you want to do it. Once you have the epoxy or tie-coat primer on it is pretty straight forward. Scuff your tie-coat or epoxy and spray your 2K primer ( sandable filler primer ). POR says you can use the tie-coat any time after the POR 15 is dry up to about a year even without sanding it. I try to scuff everything.

Filler - Both Rage Gold and Rage Extreme are very good and sand easily. The Extreme leaves fewer pinholes. Seam sealer - BUY URETHANE best to buy calking gun tubes not brushable. You can always brush the tube stuff on but it is pretty hard to make a nice neat bead with a brush ;D

I wouldn't put filler over the tie-coat primer but over epoxy is fine. One other thing... I wouldn't do the outside of the body with POR15. Clean to nice bare steel, use metal conditioner and epoxy primer OR clean to nice bare steel and spray with self etching primer and then use your sandable primer.

There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Some do it one way and others do it a different way. I have used epoxy primer over bare steel and I have used self etching over bare steel and have had pretty good results both ways. I am going to do a little more research into other products besides PPG and see if I can come up with a better way to do everything I do. I guess if you don't ask questions you will never get answers. Good luck !

 

[Bronco Wild]

Thanks 2Bad! I was going to POR the body, but you say don't...I was in the mindset that it would slow and stop some of the rust I have where the primer wouldn't? So if I have rust that I cannot get off, should I POR that spot only? I have alot of the body to clean metal, so I could just spray the self-etching primer on now, and then if filler is need, go that route, then sandable primer?

Sorry for the questions, it just seems the topics revolving around POR are subjective. Some say it's ok to do the whole truck, other don't think it's necessary.

 

[2badrotties]

I don't think the por15 on the whole truck is needed. IF you have some bad spots where pitting is deep , I'd maybe try doing those areas especially if you don't have a sandblaster to clean all of those pits out.

 

[Bronco Wild]

ok, gotcha.

Now would it be ok to use POR's self etching primer, in the aerosal can to just get it covered for now (while I keep working on another fender), until I can get it to a booth for the sandable primer over the whole thing?

 

[2badrotties]

I don't know much about the weather in NUBRASKA but if your shop is warm all the time and you dont have a problem with the metal sweating from being hot and cold you can leave it bare for a while. If you are dealing with humidity you better cover it with something. If you are close to a autobody supply store you could try some PPG - DX520 metal conditioner. That stuff is PROBABLY the same as metal ready. It will leave that same zinc phosphate coating on your bare steel and that should keep it for a while. Use it the same way as metal ready. Wipe it on ( maybe use a scotch brite pad just lightly ) and then rinse it with water.

 

[eds66bronco]

after the dx520 goes on how long do you let it sit before you wash it again?
do you scrub it while washing or just a hose down? then spray with epoxy primer?

 

[Bronco Wild]

Last question...and the beer is on me ;D

Why not use filler over tie coat? POR's marketing lends itself this route....

 

[2badrotties]

after the dx520 goes on how long do you let it sit before you wash it again?
do you scrub it while washing or just a hose down? then spray with epoxy primer?

The DX520 is pretty much a wash it down with a rag and then rinse off. No real need to let it sit but I would imagine a few minutes can't hurt. That stuff works well. As soon as you rinse it you can see that the metal has turned a grey color. The thing that is pretty neat is that it must leave a protective coating on the steel because the water that you rinse it with doesn't make it turn brown or rust color.

 

[2badrotties]

Last question...and the beer is on me ;D

Why not use filler over tie coat? POR's marketing lends itself this route....

Didn't say you couldn't ! But I never have. I'm only going to tell someone about what I personally have experienced. I never tried it so I'm not sayin nuthin ;D

 

[Bronco Wild]

Hey, I really appreciate all the help!!!!

Johnny

 

[eds66bronco]

thanks for the info 2bad. now all i have to do is wait for winter to be over so i can get back to work

 

[Bronco Wild]

thanks for the info 2bad. now all i have to do is wait for winter to be over so i can get back to work

Ed, $200 bucks solved this same problem for me. 220V/5000 watts. Keeps my 3 stall (750 sq. ft. w/ 12 ft. ceilings) @ 75 degrees (it was 20 outside last night and I worked in the garage in t-shirt and shorts) with no earth shattering effect to the electric bill. It's warmer in my garage than house.

Hands down, best money spent on my garage. Keep wrenchin' Hoss. Buy a Hot One
;D

 

[eds66bronco]

that looks like a nice little unit!
i need to insulate the shop before i did something like that. 3/4" shiplap siding and a metal roof with no insulation don't make for great heat retention. i can get it up to 60's if it's in the 30's outside with my 35,000 btu kerosene salamander. but when it's a high of 7 like the other day, i am lucky if i can get it into the 40's. fine for wrenching but not painting