Calling all KBS Coating Users!

[callmemarsh]

I am pretty close to coating the frame with KBS Coatings 3-step chassis kit (4 step if you include the black top). I was hoping you guys could give me some pointers on the prep, process and application. I already have the frame down to bare metal so I'm not too concerned with that part.

There are a couple things I want to make sure I'm ready for. I rarely get 2 days off in a row to really dedicate to it so I really need to plan this out to the hour since I believe most of it is time sensitive.

Also, I am a bit concerned with the temperature here. I have read of issues applying it when it's too hot, but not necessarily too cold. The instructions say 55-82˚F for ideal application. I can get the one car garage pretty warm if I absolutely have to, but I can't be rinsing chemicals etc in there. Also, I would prefer to do it with the garage door open for obvious reasons.

 

[AZ73]

Are you shooting or brushing? I've brushed straight up when it was over 82 and ended up with brush marks. I've brushed when it's over 82 with 10% #1 thinner and it came out fine. I thin with 10% #1 to shoot (with a big 1.4 mm primer tip) and it's been fine from 70-85.

If you shoot, you need 2+ coats, depending on your shooting style and tip used. If you brush you can do it with one coat. Second coat after no fingerprint can be seen when touching but before 4 hours.

Shooting is pretty straight forward, but I would recommend using a cheap HF $9.99 gun. It keeps you from having to spend a lot of time cleaning it. Just toss it. Also RESPIRATOR!!!! You need one rated for organic 95+ and I use a particulate filter 95+ over that as you can replace them without having to replace your organic. With ANY #1 thinner the aerosol wont dry before it hits the ground so use painter's paper or drop cloth on anything you don't want to turn a nice shade or grey. That includes your skin and clothes. I used a hooded disposable painter's suit from Home Depot and 2 layers of nitrile gloves as you will need the under layer to take the top layer off.

If you brush, I would recommend limiting the use of #1 thinner as long as you're in the temp zone. Even a little thinner REALLY thins is and you'll get drips forming like icicles on the bottom of your frame. Keep your brush from getting too much paint on it and just paint smaller areas at a time to avoid this. They're hard to sand off so take your time.

 

[Crawdad]

Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t the first part the rinse? You spray for a total of 30 minutes not allowing it to dry at any point? At that point I’d just slide her in ur garage that you have warm using some heaters. Thing is ur frame has to be totally dry before applying second step paint process. Isn’t that the step where the paint sorta needs humidity in order to cure? Obviously you wouldn’t spray with your heaters on (kabooooom!), I guess you could use a humidifier. Am I anywhere close to steps 1 and 2? Heck I forget step 3. It’s been a while since I was thinking about coating my frame. Now I want to do my front axle this way.

 

[callmemarsh]

Thanks for the input guys. I will most likely be rolling/painting. I am going to flip the frame over so that if any drips form they will be on TOP of the frame that nobody will really see (except for the front, I'll be more careful).

AZ73, I'm actually on the opposite side of the weather. I'm worried it will be too cold.

Crawdad, yeah that's actually the second step, RustBlast. It calls for a clean, dry surface and 55-82 degrees. You have to keep it from drying and this is the step that etches it. How critical do yall think the temp is on this step?

The RustSeal they actually say completely avoid humid days as it will cause bubbles to form.

 

[AZ73]

The RustSeal they actually say completely avoid humid days as it will cause bubbles to form.

Use more thinner. The problem is it cures too fast on humid days. And paint THIN layers.

 

[bronkenn]

The metal etching will still work when it's cool out, you just have to leave it on longer. It actually is a little better when it is cool out because the acid does not dry as fast. In the summer I try to do it early in the morning before the sun hits it. Ken

 

[callmemarsh]

The metal etching will still work when it's cool out, you just have to leave it on longer. It actually is a little better when it is cool out because the acid does not dry as fast. In the summer I try to do it early in the morning before the sun hits it. Ken

Well that's good news! Now I just need to find the time to do it and someone to give me a hand!

Any reason I shouldn't coat it upside down? I figure I would rather have the bottom perfect than the top. Plus the excess should work down into the spring/shock/engine mounts.

 

[bronkenn]

I did mine on about a 45 degree angle so I could get to top and bottom easily. I would go back in a few minutes and check for runs and brush any out that I found. Good luck, Ken

 

[callmemarsh]

I did mine on about a 45 degree angle so I could get to top and bottom easily. I would go back in a few minutes and check for runs and brush any out that I found. Good luck, Ken

How did you prop your frame up on a 45? Keep in mind, I'm limited with space and ceiling height.

 

[bronkenn]

I set the one side of the frame on a pair of sawhorses and propped the other side up with a steel pole under the body mount bracket. That provides easy access to the top and bottom of the frame. After your done you can go back and touch up the contact points where the frame and sawhorses met. Ken

 

[callmemarsh]

Now you got me thinking. I wonder if I can devise a way to hang it on an angle from the ceiling...

 

[bronkenn]

After seeing the other work you've done that will be childs play.

 

[callmemarsh]

Got steps one and two done today. After thoroughly rinsing the RustBlast there was a yellowish/amber film that started to appear. Anybody else experience this?

 

[Skiddy]

your rear end looks like it has a big bow in it lol

 

[5001craig]

Got steps one and two done today. After thoroughly rinsing the RustBlast there was a yellowish/amber film that started to appear. Anybody else experience this?

I went back and looked at my pics from that stage and see I had a little yellow going on also. If you rinsed it well I wouldn't worry about it. Make sure you have plenty of product to install (I ran a bit short on the final stage and have some brush strokes) and keep cool. I coated mine around 65° F and it went on well. If you don't do the coats when they are tacky rough the surface before the next coat.

 

[callmemarsh]

yeah, it's just on the top, but looks like there are some drip marks running down the sides. I rinsed it for a solid 10 minutes. I can't imagine needing to rinse it more?

 

[bronkenn]

That discoloration is what the metal etching does to bare metal. The paint needs that for proper adhesion. I used a 2 inch brush and made sure the first coat went on nice and go back to smooth out any drips until it sets up. Don't brush it after it starts to set up or you will have brush marks. Also make sure it is dry before applying your top coat as the top coat will soften up the base coat and won't flow right. If I recall right you have 24 hours to topcoat before you have sand between coats. Good luck and I think you will like the finish when your done. Ken

 

[callmemarsh]

That's what I figured. The directions said that it would be a dry white residue so I had to question it. I see white powder too, so I'm gonna just run with it.

Here are some shots I took this morning.

 

[callmemarsh]

Just got off the phone with Randy at KBS and the amber is just flash rust. He assures me that it is completely fine. Great customer service by the way!