Cam change in stock 302

[Bronco1294]

Looking to wake up my stock motor. Going to an edelbrock intake and 4bbl, headers and exhaust. Never have changed a camshaft- how hard is it? Does the motor have to come out? ever done major engine work...THX!

 

[blubuckaroo]

Yes, for those other components work well, you'll need to replace the stock cam.
If you can replace a timing gear and intake manifold, you can do it.
It would be a good idea to get this motor book.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Ford-Engines/dp/0912656891

An important thing to keep in mind though is to make sure that your valve spring pressure, rate, and lift are a good match for the cam you choose. The cam manufacturer can help with that. Just be sure to ask.

Welcome to the Forum, and keep us posted.

 

[tirewater]

Looking to wake up my stock motor. Going to an edelbrock intake and 4bbl, headers and exhaust. Never have changed a camshaft- how hard is it? Does the motor have to come out? ever done major engine work...THX!

If you're replacing those items you should seriously think about replacing your cylinder heads as well, as they'll be the items holding you back after you replace the rest.

Changing the camshaft is not hard, but it's a hassle.

The camshaft can't come out without interference with the front grill. So you can remove the engine, or remove the grill or cut the grill.

You'll want to do it when you change the intake manifold because the manifold will have to come off so you can fish the lifters out of their holes before removing the current camshaft.

 

[73azbronco]

Let the list of items begin

You can do just a cam, but as referenced, if you are going to get a cam that wakes up the motor, you need valve springs, maybe rockers, probably heads to benefit from what you are doing. A simple cam won't make that much difference.

 

[SHX669]

You'll notice a nice increase in performance even if you just do cam/lifters, intake , carb and headers. No you don't have to remove the engine to replace the cam but have to remove the grill or cut one of the horizontal "pieces" bend it out then bend back to normal position when done.
Like was mentioned you need to check the condition of your valve springs and keepers, rockers , pushrods etc. If your motor is worn adding xtra horsepower will accentuate that wear. Obviously going with a better head design will increase your performance even more but is expensive and not necessary if your heads/valves are in relatively good condition and if you only want to make a better performing motor.

 

[Timmy390]

Cam change is a can of worms if you do it right. A bigger cam needs more air and fuel so you have to get air and fuel both in and out to take advantage of the cam.

Stock 302 heads (guessing 70's smog heads) are JUNK.

You can do what I did and source all the parts getting exactly what you want and build your own combo or you could go with an Edelbrock power package. http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2027/10002/-1 Everything you need to do it right. Not suggesting this kit just an example

You might want a different cam but it gives you an idea of what the package is and the cost.

Tim

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've seen a couple of references here for cutting the grill to remove a camshaft.

This is really disturbing!?:?

The grill is very easy to remove. I take mine off before doing any front engine work.
I think some are afraid they'll pull the paint loose along the seam, but there is no seam sealer there (factory).

Sure you may have some corroded fasteners, and may be a struggle the first time you remove it. Just replace them with new fasteners with a little anti-seize on them. It will be a breeze next time.

 

[Joe473]

Another way to do it if you have people is to remove the grille and fenders as 1 piece. I've done this twice now with no damage.

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[gr8scott]

You'll also want to get a new timing chain and gear set, as the stock one has built-in retardation for smog purposes. A one piece fuel pump eccentric is also on the list.
Running stock hood? There may be some clearance issues as a 4 barrel sit a bit higher.

 

[Blue Bastard]

Any there will only be so much gain with low compression heads and pistons. I put a new cam , intake, and headers on it.I learned that on a mid 70's cheby motor.....


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[Bronco1294]

OK, thanks everyone. Why do I feel like I opened a huge can of worms? Major engine work is NOT in my skill set yet- I'm not even entirely sure what the timing gear/chain is. Am I getting in way over my head? How does one pull a motor, or is this all ok to be done with the grill off? My Bronco is in pretty good shape- it was a low mileage arizona forest service truck. I'm doing this mostly to get proper performance at altitude.

 

[blubuckaroo]

OK, thanks everyone. Why do I feel like I opened a huge can of worms? Major engine work is NOT in my skill set yet- I'm not even entirely sure what the timing gear/chain is. Am I getting in way over my head? How does one pull a motor, or is this all ok to be done with the grill off? My Bronco is in pretty good shape- it was a low mileage arizona forest service truck. I'm doing this mostly to get proper performance at altitude.

If your car has larger than stock tires, that could be the reason it's poopy.
I went the same route, and went cam, 4bbl, better heads, and headers, and it was still poopy.
After re-gearing to compensate for the tire size, I got the performance back. In fact, many times I wish I had left the stock motor alone.

But then there are moments when I just can't contain the little boy in me.;D

If you're on this forum much, there seems to be a consensus that the factory 2bbl carb is perfect for normal driving and trails. It may come up short when trying to pass on a two lane highway, but other than that it works great.

 

[Bronco1294]

I have plans to run 255s on it. I haven't had a chance to drive it much yet- it's got 4.10s stock because it was a forest service truck. It has a 2bbl carb though. Hence my concern for high altitude performance here in Colorado.

 

[Bronco1294]

Wow- that package is expensive. Holy shart. I'll have to do it piecemeal for sure. Priorities? I already have the intake...

 

[blubuckaroo]

I have plans to run 255s on it. I haven't had a chance to drive it much yet- it's got 4.10s stock because it was a forest service truck. It has a 2bbl carb though. Hence my concern for high altitude performance here in Colorado.

A car's performance suffers at high elevation just like our bodies do. It's from the reduction of oxygen. Why not start by making sure your present carb is jetted properly for high elevation? There will still be less performance because of less oxygen, but it will sure run better.

 

[Bronco1294]

Figured it would never perform at altitude with a 2bbl so hadn't thought to even consider the existing setup....

 

[gr8scott]

I'm not even entirely sure what the timing gear/chain is.

Here's the set I went with.
summitracing.com edl-7820

 

[blubuckaroo]

Figured it would never perform at altitude with a 2bbl so hadn't thought to even consider the existing setup....

Broncos have been sold and used at higher elevations than yours. It's just a matter of tuning the thing.
In addition to leaning out the mixture, you might even try advancing the timing a bit, since higher elevations allow for more advance.

 

[savage]

This is the cam my builder went with, crane cam 363902 ,grind H-260-2, and I'm running a edlebrock intake 2121, double roller timing set and edlebrock 4 barrel carb 1406.The 302 has been bored and balanced, and the stock heads have been reworked. So not totally stock, but not to much over stock.

 

[tirewater]

Here's the set I went with.
summitracing.com edl-7820

Keep in mind that one is for a one piece fuel pump eccentric instead of a two piece eccentric.