Can I use a 89 302 short block in my 69

[Mtgrizzlymn]

Found a reman 302 that was bought for an 89 truck. What all do I need to change if I can use this? Can’t find any of the information on searches I feel I need. Thank you in advance everyone


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[1969]

Are you running a carb or fuel injection? You can use it you just might have to change out the front accessories and other bits.

 

[DirtDonk]

Generally speaking, it’s a straight bolt in.
Some details will need to be taken care of, however.

You will have to make sure that the crank has a pilot bearing if you are using a manual transmission.

Speaking of manual transmissions, you will likely need a flywheel from a later application with the 50oz imbalance.

You will need to modify the clutch linkage, as there is no threaded hole for the bell crank bracket on the engine. Easy to do and companies like ours offer a bracket to take the place of the missing hole.

Does it have a timing cover already? Or just a timing chain and gears? The timing cover for an 89 would probably not have a place for a fuel pump. If you have an electric pump, that’s not an issue.
If you reuse your fuel pump eccentric and timing cover, and everything from there forward, you can reuse all of your old accessories.
You will likely need to get your damper balanced for the 50 ounce imbalance rating of the 89 engine versus the 28 ounce imbalance factor of the early engine.
Lots of ways around that as well.

But you may have to check with anyone who has worked on the engine, or knows what it came out of for sure. Just to be certain that it’s a 50 ounce engine.
I’m pretty sure that by 89, all 302/5.0 engines were 50 ounce however.
Since it’s a short block, you should be able to see the end of the crankshaft. There should be markings on it. I believe underwear the flywheel mounts. If they are on the inside, however, you may have to take the pan off to discover the exact balance factor of the crank.

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

Are you running a carb or fuel injection? You can use it you just might have to change out the front accessories and other bits.

Will be running carb. I can transfer all my original bolt ons to newer engine . Will my edelbrock intake work as well? I’ll do some searching for clutch stuff. Dirt Donk I’ll look at your web sight and see if you have what I’ll need! Wouldn’t consider doing this but found a short block for an 89 from jasper for 1500 near where I’m on vacation right now for a pretty good price.


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[Broncobowsher]

Short answer is yes. Long answer, just have to address the list of small changes that happened over 20 years between engines.
New engine is probably roller cam. Will need correct distributor drive gear. Since you are dealing with a short block, might have to deal with the heads a little so they will handle the roller cam profile. Lifters and pushrods will need to be correct as well.
There will be an extra hole above the oil pan rail for a late model dipstick. There are tiny freeze plugs that can go in there to keep oil from leaking out.
Engine balance needs to be addressed. Neither the flywheel nor the damper from the '69 will be correct for an '89.

But your old intake and valve covers will work just fine. Your original Bronco oil pan will swap over just fine. Motor mounts might need a tiny spot of clearancing, not an issue. Just precheck bolting the mounts to the engine before trying to install.

 

[jamesroney]

Short answer is no.
Long answer, just have to address the stuff @Broncobowsher mentioned. But here is where it gets tricky.

1989 was a strange year for the 5.0 engine at Ford. The engine block in use was the E7TE-6015-CA casting, and it was used in both HO, and non-HO configuration. It was CAST and machined for a roller cam, but it was not available with a roller cam in the truck. The HO engine also used TRW forged pistons, where the non-HO used cast pistons. Forged pistons used 5/64 rings, and cast used 1.5 mm. While both engines are native 50 oz-in imbalance, there is every reason to believe that the target crankshaft bob-weight would have been slightly different for the two configurations. They both share the 2MAE crank.

The truck used a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft with a double roller timing chain, and no fuel pump provision. The double roller camshaft sprocket (and later silent chain sprocket) is thicker than earlier versions, and will not allow the use of a normal fuel pump eccentric. You will need to replace the camshaft pin with a longer one. I usually machine the center of the sprocket thinner to make sure the eccentric stays away from the timing cover. You can run the thin eccentric if you can find it. Or you can use an early style sprocket. The non-HO engine will have a 1-5-4 firing order, and a cast cam. The HO uses a 1-3-7 firing order, and a steel cam.

Truck engine uses E7 heads. with pedestal rockers, and flat tappet length mild steel pushrods.

You will know if you have a truck engine, because the block has the hole on the intake valley is drilled and threaded for the knock sensor. The passenger cars, and the HO did not receive a knock sensor, and the hole is not there. It doesn't really matter, because that's pretty much the only difference between blocks.

Be careful when using the roller lifter spider tray, because the non-HO might need to have the threads chased. Just don't go too deep, or you will get in to the cam bearing. (I'm not proud that I know that detail...)

It most certainly can be done. But you kinda have to wonder why you would want to.

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

I found this for 1500.00 but it was for an 89 f150. If it’s not cost effective I’ll just wait. I don’t need any headaches trying to make it work.


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[jamesroney]

I found this for 1500.00 but it was for an 89 f150. If it’s not cost effective I’ll just wait. I don’t need any headaches trying to make it work.


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I’d use it. In fact, I have one I’m building this week. But I put in a roller cam, and I’m running electric fuel pump.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That's not a short block. That is a long block. Short block does not have heads, long block has heads.
Post a picture of inside the lifter valley and we will tell you if it has a flat tappet or a roller tappet cam.
It's probably a good deal.

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

Only pictures that were on posting Sorry it is a long block. Heads etc !


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[Broncobowsher]

Bottom one is what I need to see. Flat tappet cam. Your old distributor has the right gear on it already. Use cam break in additive on first start.

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

Thanks for the help guys. Should wild horse have the flywheel and clutch I need then? Harmonic balancer just needs to be the 50 as well. Sounds like everything else I can make work


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[73azbronco]

Stop, go buy a ford engine rebuilding book, will answer most questions.

One for $8

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Bo...YY_aHo5TKMVQ1V_oj8wsVxMfljfsyO74aAha5EALw_wcB

 

[DirtDonk]

Should wild horse have the flywheel and clutch I need then? Harmonic balancer just needs to be the 50 as well.

Yes, we should have what you need.
The flywheel for sure, and possibly even the correct damper.
It’s going to depend on what front accessory system you use, and you still have to confirm your imbalance factor. But if you’re going to use your original belt drive stuff, we should have a damper that works.
I believe our stock replacement type is only 28 ounce. But we have a performance version, that can be weighted either way with removable replaceable weights.
You might possibly use a factory type 50 ounce damper, but I wouldn’t know which one to recommend that would have all the pulleys line up.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Stop, go buy a ford engine rebuilding book, will answer most questions.

One for $8

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Bo...YY_aHo5TKMVQ1V_oj8wsVxMfljfsyO74aAha5EALw_wcB

True, but also depends on the availability of a good local machine shop. Those are getting hard to find these days. And there may still be quality issues. I had a good local machine shop that was good. Then they started doing crap work and I quit using them. Just found another machine shop that does good work at fair prices. But it is slow.

 

[EPB72]

you could call jasper and get details on how that engine was built “s on sticker they do stock builds and also custom builds ,,

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

Yes, we should have what you need.
The flywheel for sure, and possibly even the correct damper.
It’s going to depend on what front accessory system you use, and you still have to confirm your imbalance factor. But if you’re going to use your original belt drive stuff, we should have a damper that works.
I believe our stock replacement type is only 28 ounce. But we have a performance version, that can be weighted either way with removable replaceable weights.
You might possibly use a factory type 50 ounce damper, but I wouldn’t know which one to recommend that would have all the pulleys line up.

Paul I will be calling in a couple weeks when my vacation is over . I’m going with stock belt system as well .


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