I was replacing the locks and both doors and thought I'd replace the ignition tumbler too since it was the whole package and I could only use one key for all. I got the old tumbler out okay but can't seem to get in the new one. Any advice, videos, instructions, etc.? I'm having a devil of a time and it's supposed to be pretty easy. I've got a 1974 Bronco.
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can't install new ignition tumbler
- Thread starter rickmac
- Start date
Did you get it? Certainly took me more than one attempt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQjBSiiil8s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQjBSiiil8s
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I am not a fan of some of the aftermarket tumblers. I have had better luck with complete switches that were already together. I had the same issue as you with trying to get those to fit and started buying whole switches complete after that.
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Verify that the new tumbler is all the way into the unlock/remove/reinstall position. If not you have to put the paper clip in the hole and turn it that last bit to get the two bits to align.
Also, if the slot in the back of the switch has shifted while you were messing around, you'll have to reach back there with a screwdriver or other implement and turn it back to the full left position so that the new cylinder will line up when it's in the full-left "unlock" position.
Paul
Also, if the slot in the back of the switch has shifted while you were messing around, you'll have to reach back there with a screwdriver or other implement and turn it back to the full left position so that the new cylinder will line up when it's in the full-left "unlock" position.
Paul
Thanks, guys. Still can't turn the bezel and push in on the ignition switch enough to pry it loose. I'll keep trying. There's not much room under the dash. All the videos show the whole unit (which is brand new, by the way) removed from the dash. It's a little bit easier to grab and turn that way. Anyway, I'll keep trying. Thanks again.
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Having this same issue trying to install a new tumbler into a new ignition switch. Both sourced parts were for 74 bronco. I can put a blank tumbler in there (all the guts removed.. long story) but if it's a assembled tumbler with key and the detent taken care of, it will not go in. Starts to go, then stops... Been trying to figure this one out for a bit... hence the reason why the other brand new tumbler got taken apart
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Interesting. And now you have to show us pics of a disassembled tumber! Never seen inside one.
But it's strange that some of these just won't go together. Are you saying that the one you took apart will fit? Is this with the little rear rectangular "tang" installed? Or is it missing too?
Does that one that fits still have the little tin "hat" covering the key hole? Or was that peeled off as well?
Paul
But it's strange that some of these just won't go together. Are you saying that the one you took apart will fit? Is this with the little rear rectangular "tang" installed? Or is it missing too?
Does that one that fits still have the little tin "hat" covering the key hole? Or was that peeled off as well?
Paul
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Oh, and I'll ask the same question as before with the OP. Are you inserting the paper clip and rotating the tumbler (within itself) to the correct position for insertion?
If it has rotated back to it's neutral state, it will never go back into the switch because the rear tang will never line up with the slot in the back of the switch.
Ya just gotta turn it that last bit again for it to go in.
Paul
If it has rotated back to it's neutral state, it will never go back into the switch because the rear tang will never line up with the slot in the back of the switch.
Ya just gotta turn it that last bit again for it to go in.
Paul
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Pictures added. I've tried just about everything I can think of short of getting out the dremel and shaving aluminum from the long rectangular slots that line everything up. I've been avoiding that for obvious reasons, but I'm too the point where I basically think "what do I have to lose" by starting to shave those rails down.
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So this is a new switch? What is that little pin thingy in the center of the rectangular slot? Been awhile since I looked, but I don't remember ever having seen one of those.
If you push on it with a poker, does it retract like it's spring loaded? Are you turning the slot fully to the left before trying to insert the tumbler/cylinder?
At least in the last pic, it looks to be in the wrong position.
Paul
If you push on it with a poker, does it retract like it's spring loaded? Are you turning the slot fully to the left before trying to insert the tumbler/cylinder?
At least in the last pic, it looks to be in the wrong position.
Paul
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Brand new switch, purchased with the harness. In the center of the slot is a spring, and I'm pretty sure it is all the way to the left. There is a small difference on the back of the tumbler, either side of the flange that actually goes into the ignition. Let's call it the male appendage of the key cylinder, that goes into the female notched part of the ignition. I make sure that is set up correctly each time before trying to get it to go it. It almost feels like the metal sleeve over the top of the key way is getting caught, but it is impossible to tell when trying this out due to the actual structure of the key cylinder face. Frustrating to say the least.
Below you can see the cylinder out of the tumbler goes all the way into position. Something is getting bound up between the complete tumbler and key cylinder and the ignition switch. Thought at first it might be the dash protector, but you can see in the pics above it doesn't interfere with the empty tumbler. T
The only thing I can think at this point is either the actual tumbler is milled just a bit different, or the metal sleeve that covers the key pins is stopping it from going all the way in.
Below you can see the cylinder out of the tumbler goes all the way into position. Something is getting bound up between the complete tumbler and key cylinder and the ignition switch. Thought at first it might be the dash protector, but you can see in the pics above it doesn't interfere with the empty tumbler. T
The only thing I can think at this point is either the actual tumbler is milled just a bit different, or the metal sleeve that covers the key pins is stopping it from going all the way in.
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Does that mean it’s in?
By the way, was the dash panel recently powder coated? That seems to cause trouble approximately 98.6% of the time by somehow managing to come through its extra thickness, put too much pressure on things. Far worse on modern ignition, which is then on the old ones. The springs are not the same. But at least it looks like you’re using the old bezel, which should have made it easier.
And here’s what I started to write about 4 1/2 hours ago…
Might be impossible to tell, but it’s definitely not impossible for that to be it. That little cover over the keyhole has been a bane of our existence since the Chinese started taking liberties with English to metric conversions many years ago!
Usually it doesn’t keep the switch from going in, however. It usually keeps you from being able to turn it to start and have the spring automatically return it to the ON position. Sometimes we fix that by removing that cover. Does it work with the old one? Or is that long gone?
By the way, was the dash panel recently powder coated? That seems to cause trouble approximately 98.6% of the time by somehow managing to come through its extra thickness, put too much pressure on things. Far worse on modern ignition, which is then on the old ones. The springs are not the same. But at least it looks like you’re using the old bezel, which should have made it easier.
And here’s what I started to write about 4 1/2 hours ago…
Might be impossible to tell, but it’s definitely not impossible for that to be it. That little cover over the keyhole has been a bane of our existence since the Chinese started taking liberties with English to metric conversions many years ago!
Usually it doesn’t keep the switch from going in, however. It usually keeps you from being able to turn it to start and have the spring automatically return it to the ON position. Sometimes we fix that by removing that cover. Does it work with the old one? Or is that long gone?
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New complete tumbler and cylinder NOT installed. Will not go in. Separate they both go where they are supposed to (new parts, disassembled, can't put back together which is why bought another new one). I tried both apart to see if I could narrow it down to either the outside structure of the tumbler, or the male appendage on the key cylinder.
I'm going to try and remove the metal piece that covers the key pins (hopefully this time without losing them or the springs) and see if it will go in. In theory, that might work... lol. If not, I'll be buying a third key tumbler/cylinder replacement... Or I could just say it's a custom tweaker mod and use a screwdriver to start the Bronco.
The dash was painted. I wondered about external pressure or the dash protector causing problems, but if that were the case, the empty tumbler wouldn't go in.
I'm going to try and remove the metal piece that covers the key pins (hopefully this time without losing them or the springs) and see if it will go in. In theory, that might work... lol. If not, I'll be buying a third key tumbler/cylinder replacement... Or I could just say it's a custom tweaker mod and use a screwdriver to start the Bronco.
The dash was painted. I wondered about external pressure or the dash protector causing problems, but if that were the case, the empty tumbler wouldn't go in.
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When I’m talking about the metal guard over the keyhole, I mean the round tin piece on the very front. The part you see. Probably kind of a sacrificial scratch guard over the key slot.
That’s what has caused issues in the past.
Nothing over the pins. Never had trouble in that area personally. Hadn’t heard of it here either.
If you are having this trouble only when the ignition switch is installed in the dash, then work with that aspect.
You’ve also got that metal scratch guard, which adds a layer of thickness also.
One of the issues with new switches, especially with thicker dash panels, is tilt, I think you said in the first post, but just to repeat, when you’re trying to insert the cylinder, are you wiggling the ignition switch in the back?
And I don’t mean twisting. I mean rocking side to side and up and down in different directions.
That’s what has caused issues in the past.
Nothing over the pins. Never had trouble in that area personally. Hadn’t heard of it here either.
If you are having this trouble only when the ignition switch is installed in the dash, then work with that aspect.
You’ve also got that metal scratch guard, which adds a layer of thickness also.
One of the issues with new switches, especially with thicker dash panels, is tilt, I think you said in the first post, but just to repeat, when you’re trying to insert the cylinder, are you wiggling the ignition switch in the back?
And I don’t mean twisting. I mean rocking side to side and up and down in different directions.
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Haven't added any wiggle to the actual ignition switch. I'll try that now. Second picture in the first series I posted is as far as I've been able to get it to slide in so far, which is no where near bottomed out.
On Edit... Added Wiggle... Still not working. Even added a little tap with a hammer... Something is blocking the tumbler and I can't tell what it is.
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It looks like you need to rotate key in the lock cylinder about 180°.
First picture (below) is your second picture in post #11, arrow is pointing at what appears to be the release-pin hole.
Second picture shows where the release-pin hole is located when I install the lock cylinder (tumbler) in my ignition switch.
I highlighted the angle cut on the back of the lock cylinder.
First picture is yours, second picture is mine, when ready to install.
First picture (below) is your second picture in post #11, arrow is pointing at what appears to be the release-pin hole.
Second picture shows where the release-pin hole is located when I install the lock cylinder (tumbler) in my ignition switch.
I highlighted the angle cut on the back of the lock cylinder.
First picture is yours, second picture is mine, when ready to install.
