Carb help desperation....need suggestions

[SDlivin]

For me... after I did the explorer serp swap and changed the cam, and manifold. It took me 30 stabs with the dizzy to get it just perfect. Literally had to take a screwdriver down in the dizzy hole to align the oil pump so I could get it to sit down on the right tooth. I did have some space limitations in regards to how much I could turn the dizzy to adjust timing though witht he new explorer serp swap brackets.

But if I was at least close it would run... like crap, but run, until I got it right. difference was night and day. Also used a timing light and vacuum gauge to dial it in after that.

Back to your gig... sealant from mani to head in the 4 corners? You are running a bead along the front and back part of the block outside the valley of lifters? I think some gasket sets come with gaskets for this, but most instructions or people tell you to use a 1/4" bead along these parts.

Any ports off the manifold not plugged, or the carb for that matter? usually 3 or 4 ports off the carb that need to be plugged. Typically the front ctr large port is for the pcv valve from the valve cover, rear ctr large port is for brake vacuum, front small left is for vacuum advance on dizzy (I think it sits a little higher then the small one on on the right) small front right one, who knows... just cap it, good one to use for vacuum gauge testing.

For TDC, sounds like your doing it right.

Where abouts San Diego you located?

 

[Accordngs]

If it was a timing issue you would have only needed to turn the dizzy to get it running good. unless your firing order got messed up I still say its a internal vacuum leak intake gaskets can and do slip during install. sometimes they even tear due to movement.
Your earlier statement about it running with the choke plate closed tells me nothing but vacuum leak.

You are probably right. I use the tacky stuff to hold the gaskets in place...but still could of moved. I did spin the dizzy a whole lot and still couldn't get it going right. That is why my head was spinning.

Guess I need to go to the parts store to buy: 1. Vacuum gauge 2. New gaskets

 

[Accordngs]

For me... after I did the explorer serp swap and changed the cam, and manifold. It took me 30 stabs with the dizzy to get it just perfect. Literally had to take a screwdriver down in the dizzy hole to align the oil pump so I could get it to sit down on the right tooth. I did have some space limitations in regards to how much I could turn the dizzy to adjust timing though witht he new explorer serp swap brackets.

But if I was at least close it would run... like crap, but run, until I got it right. difference was night and day. Also used a timing light and vacuum gauge to dial it in after that.

Back to your gig... sealant from mani to head in the 4 corners? You are running a bead along the front and back part of the block outside the valley of lifters? I think some gasket sets come with gaskets for this, but most instructions or people tell you to use a 1/4" bead along these parts.

Any ports off the manifold not plugged, or the carb for that matter? usually 3 or 4 ports off the carb that need to be plugged. Typically the front ctr large port is for the pcv valve from the valve cover, rear ctr large port is for brake vacuum, front small left is for vacuum advance on dizzy (I think it sits a little higher then the small one on on the right) small front right one, who knows... just cap it, good one to use for vacuum gauge testing.

For TDC, sounds like your doing it right.

Where abouts San Diego you located?

Yeah, I re-stabbed the dizzy probably at least 50 times playing around just trying to get it right.

The two small vacuums on front of the carb are plugged, the rear is plugged. The PCV I was using on the power brakes. The manifold has all ports plugged that aren't in use as well.

The sealant was used in the 4 spots where the cork gasket that runs across the block that meets with each gasket that is sitting on the head. It was also used around the ports where the coolant flows through on the head to manifold.

I am in Tierrasanta (about 5 minutes north of qualcomm stadium)

 

[SDlivin]

Others may chime in, but I suggest you use a 1/4 bead of rtv instead of the cork gaskets for the block to manifold section. I also use contact cement to hold the head to manifold gaskets in place, sounds like you are doing something similar.

I have a vacuum gauge you can use/borrow if you need?

Also, you know you have to use the specific Edelbrock gaskets for your particular Edlebrock intake right?
Which E Manifold you running? I have a spare set for the performer plus.

Is it running long enough so you can get a timing light reading on it?

 

[Accordngs]

Others may chime in, but I suggest you use a 1/4 bead of rtv instead of the cork gaskets for the block to manifold section. I also use contact cement to hold the head to manifold gaskets in place, sounds like you are doing something similar.

I have a vacuum gauge you can use/borrow if you need?

Also, you know you have to use the specific Edelbrock gaskets for your particular Edlebrock intake right?
Which E Manifold you running? I have a spare set for the performer plus.

Is it running long enough so you can get a timing light reading on it?

I didn't realize that for the edelbrock E-Manifold....makes sense now that I think about it. I was running a gasket that matched up to the Carb (has the 4 ports)...I am running the performer 289 (part #2121) that is the square hole.

It only runs long enough if me or a friend holds the choke.

 

[SDlivin]

Well, at least Edelbrock always says to use their specific intake gaskets, could be a pure marketing make them more money bs, and I'm sure some others could work, but......

I checked Summit racing and it appears you need the #7220 intake gasket, which I have, if you need, or can't source locally and don't want to wait the 3-5 business days or more for you to get it online. Double check that gasket set number though, two sets of eyes are better then one.

 

[Accordngs]

Well, at least Edelbrock always says to use their specific intake gaskets, could be a pure marketing make them more money bs, and I'm sure some others could work, but......

I checked Summit racing and it appears you need the #7220 intake gasket, which I have, if you need, or can't source locally and don't want to wait the 3-5 business days or more for you to get it online. Double check that gasket set number though, two sets of eyes are better then one.

Got ya. Sounds like worth trying at this point. How can I go about getting that gasket from ya, and what do you want in return?

 

[SDlivin]

You still have that rear protofab bumper? j/k, bad joke.

Check your aol email.

-Robert

 

[Accordngs]

You still have that rear protofab bumper? j/k, bad joke.

Check your aol email.

-Robert

Lol. That thing is gone! But would of been a great deal for one of us ;D

I never got the email. ACCORDNGS at AOL dot COM

 

[broncnaz]

Mostly a marketing ploy by edelbrock there are plenty of other gaskets that work. Just make sure the port size is at least as big as the the edlebrock size. One thing about intake gaskets is that when you glue them in place once the intake is installed the intake may try to pull the gasket downward as you torque the intake and it moves into postion it can rip the gasket as you torque creating a vacuum leak. quite a common occrance with some of the softer gaskets out there. I know the felpro 1250's had that issue. Although I've always had good luck with the 1250's.

 

[lasadoor]

how are things looking today?

 

[Accordngs]

how are things looking today?

Just PM'd ya...sorry for the delay.

 

[Accordngs]

Just wanted to give an update to everyone following this thread...

Got it running today! Ended up it was an internal vacuum leak. Swapped out new gaskets...sealed it up nicely...redid TDC and timing...idling perfect!

Just need to now adjust my carb. Running a bit rich and is robbing me of high end power right now. (This is my fault for playing with the carb out of desperation when trying to get it running before) But at least she is running again!

 

[SDlivin]

Just wanted to give an update to everyone following this thread...

Got it running today! Ended up it was an internal vacuum leak. Swapped out new gaskets...sealed it up nicely...redid TDC and timing...idling perfect!

Just need to now adjust my carb. Running a bit rich and is robbing me of high end power right now. (This is my fault for playing with the carb out of desperation when trying to get it running before) But at least she is running again!

Glad to hear that gasket set worked out for ya'... Good to meet you by the way.

 

[Accordngs]

Glad to hear that gasket set worked out for ya'... Good to meet you by the way.

Thanks Rob, great meeting you too! The gasket def. did the trick. I'll be getting your gauge back to you asap. I'm actually gonna use it this week to try and fine tune the carb since I am running way to rich.

Hope you had a great trip over the weekend with the bronco.

-Dan