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Centch harness and gauge questions post 17

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broncojames

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Don't matter, unless it isn't hooked up.

its is hooked up it dos not even twitch

the ground wire with the cluster wires where is the best place to ground it ? dash is not yet secured tight would that cause a bad ground

gauge cluster was recently rebuilt by classy chassis restoration all checked out good and repainted
 
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broncojames

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dash bolted and screwed tight ground wire screwed to dash temp gauge still climes when in run

ground for dome not grounded because i don't have one yet should it still be grounded ? wipers work
 

Viperwolf1

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its is hooked up it dos not even twitch

the ground wire with the cluster wires where is the best place to ground it ? dash is not yet secured tight would that cause a bad ground

gauge cluster was recently rebuilt by classy chassis restoration all checked out good and repainted

Well, you have more than 1 problem going on then. Could problems with the temp and gas circuits or a problem with cluster ground and oil circuit. Ground the cluster first to rule something out. The mounting screw for the IVR is a good place to ground. I would run it over to the firewall.
 
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broncojames

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Well, you have more than 1 problem going on then. Could problems with the temp and gas circuits or a problem with cluster ground and oil circuit. Ground the cluster first to rule something out. The mounting screw for the IVR is a good place to ground. I would run it over to the firewall.

IVR ? voltage regulator


right now with dash mounted firewall would be easier

would it be worth getting new sinding units for temp and oil ? they wore working before
 

Viperwolf1

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IVR=instrument voltage regulator

Don't get new senders just yet. See what happens when you have a good ground first.
 
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broncojames

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two grounding posts on ALT. can or should i run a ground to frame and tube ?

and what about ground from starter solenoid ?

and what gauge wire should i use ?
 

Viperwolf1

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Measure the voltage at the output of the IVR. Should be a pulsing 0-9V or so.

I think it's a good idea to ground the alternator to the frame, frame to the body, frame to the battery all at the same point. Usually a heavy frame ground isn't needed unless you have a winch or something else high-current that is grounded there. 4g is fine for all this. Starter solenoid needs a good ground.
 
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broncojames

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Measure the voltage at the output of the IVR. Should be a pulsing 0-9V or so.

I think it's a good idea to ground the alternator to the frame, frame to the body, frame to the battery all at the same point. Usually a heavy frame ground isn't needed unless you have a winch or something else high-current that is grounded there. 4g is fine for all this. Starter solenoid needs a good ground.

IVR is new i got a little hasty with the old one and broke one of the hookups
 

DirtDonk

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What he said.
I've had three bad brand-new IVR's i a row before. And there are probably at least 20 posts hereabouts over the last few years with similar "out of box" experiences.

Check the voltage.

I read through pretty quick, but did you say how the gauges reacted when you disconnected the wires from their sending units? Did they still go to full?

Paul
 
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broncojames

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What he said.
I've had three bad brand-new IVR's i a row before. And there are probably at least 20 posts hereabouts over the last few years with similar "out of box" experiences.

Check the voltage.

I read through pretty quick, but did you say how the gauges reacted when you disconnected the wires from their sending units? Did they still go to full?

Paul

no when they are disconnected they don't do anything guess i need to fine a tester to test the IVR and some new grounding wire as viper suggested.
 

Viperwolf1

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We'd just be guessing unless you can provide more info.
 
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broncojames

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OK all lights and switches are working. Now back to the IVR just returned the 2nd new one. both new ones were putting out a constant 12v with no pulse. thinking of getting on from TBP wait 3 days or WH and wait 4 or 5 days. waiting at this point is no problem. is the IVR universal make and model or strictly ford ?
 

Viperwolf1

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OK all lights and switches are working. Now back to the IVR just returned the 2nd new one. both new ones were putting out a constant 12v with no pulse. thinking of getting on from TBP wait 3 days or WH and wait 4 or 5 days. waiting at this point is no problem. is the IVR universal make and model or strictly ford ?

Make sure the IVR is grounded well or it will put out 12V.
 
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