Chevy disc brake swap locking hub problems

[vash07]

I was out in my shop working on my hubs and rotors, came in and saw your post. Not sure if this helps you at all or not. I was cleaning up my hubs and getting ready to install new rotors so here are a couple pics and some measurements from mine. Mine are from a 78 F 150, I have a set of Warn hubs, not sure what model number.
From the top of the lip to the top of where the splines are cut I get .661 of an inch. When I install the mechanism from the top lip to the top of the flat where the screw goes I get .410 of an inch.
Here are a couple pics of what mine look like, the top of the splines are tapered like you described earlier.
If you need some more measurements or any info I can help with let me know.
Good luck, can't wait to see what you come up with.

Your's look much deeper than mine it makes me feel even better about getting this issue fixed. He has not machined them yet i will ask him to take a measurement from them to compare to yours.

My only concern now is it the groove for the outer retaining ring is in the right spot, hopefully they got that machined right.

 

[langester]

Looks like the top of the groove starts at .245 and the bottom side is tapered starts at about .360 and ends at about .430 . These are eyeball measurements of course with my dial caliper not sure how close they are.

 

[vash07]

They have been machined but i haven't picked them up yet. I dont trust reusing the seals so i ordered some new ones. It will be next week sometime before i get it all put back together, i hope it works this time.

 

[Pa PITT]

... nO NEED TO ORDER New seals. any parts store will have them .. Part no. is 4250 or 4250s. National no..
.. What about ... iF YOU HAVE THE LOCKING HUB TWISTED POSITIVE INSTEAD OF NEGATIVE . In instead of OUT .. Right instead of LEFT.
.......
... & I'd put them together with the old seals . & maybe even the bearings with no grease on them ... I'd want to rewash them after having them on the lathe .. I'll guarantee you there'll be some more filings in them.

 

[vash07]

... nO NEED TO ORDER New seals. any parts store will have them .. Part no. is 4250 or 4250s. National no..
.. What about ... iF YOU HAVE THE LOCKING HUB TWISTED POSITIVE INSTEAD OF NEGATIVE . In instead of OUT .. Right instead of LEFT.
.......
... & I'd put them together with the old seals . & maybe even the bearings with no grease on them ... I'd want to rewash them after having them on the lathe .. I'll guarantee you there'll be some more filings in them.

I ordered the seals from rockauto.com because they were about $10 shipped for 2 National seals and O'reillys wanted $8 each.

But yeah i just got done filing the splines and cleaning them up from machining. I dry fit the hubs to see if they would fit. And the hub fell right in and dropped down low enough to get the outer retaining clip in.

But there is still no in and out play so this probably could have been machined deeper. I am not sure if i should have him go deeper or not it might be fine the way it is.

The first time when i had them greased up the inner axle clip went on. I thought the outer retaining clip went in too but now i dont think it was fully seated. I think it was maybe half seated and since i was doing it in the dark i didn't see that it wasn't.

The good news is that the chrome cap actually bottoms out now where it is supposed too. I just still need to decide if i should have him machine a little deeper to get some in and out play like the warn instructions say i am supposed to have. It may not even matter...

 

[broncochevy]

I would at this point. It doesn’t need much “play” as we say. Cheap insurance and not have to do it again.


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[vash07]

I would at this point. It doesn’t need much “play” as we say. Cheap insurance and not have to do it again.


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True....

I am mostly relieved that machining this was a quick easy fix that worked. I was getting worried about finding a set of used hubs that were machined like the picture langester posted. I was worried that once it was machined deeper the groove for the outer o-ring would be to high and i would be SOL.

But the groove is fine just needed some splines removed. And other than that these Raybestos hubs work well for $30 each on rockauto.com. O'reillys lists a hub with the same part number for $86 each https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../4943rgs/2544584/1985/ford/bronco?q=hub&pos=0

I would buy these hubs again knowing how easy it is to fix them. Even if you had to pay a machinist to do it the price shouldn't be much. The guy that machined them for me said they spun true in a lathe and he didn't even have to take long setting them up he said it was a 5 minute job.

Thanks to everyone here for the comments and to langester for the pictures and info on his '78 hub it was a great amount of help.

 

[langester]

Glad to see things worked out for you. Have a good one!

 

[Pa PITT]

...wow vash007 i'm glad you got ahead of them.
These guys know everything .. Between them all, someone can give your the answer.
..THIS one took more than most...
Come back & But BUY a Bronco .. you'll be an access here.
GOOD LUCK...

 

[Pa PITT]

SO NOW that it's been a week . are you convinced that the factory just failed to mill them deep enough.
... Do you fell like you've got your issue fixed .

 

[vash07]

SO NOW that it's been a week . are you convinced that the factory just failed to mill them deep enough.
... Do you fell like you've got your issue fixed .

Yeah i got the hubs together and it completely fixed the problem the hubs fit fine now and lock and unlock easy.