chevy tie rod ends

[68rockcrawler]

I have the 1-ton tie rod setup from Extreme Custom Fab and I already destroyed one of the tie-rod ends. What year and model of Chevy do I ask about when I am buying the rod end at the parts store?

 

[grant_71]

From the Extreme site, depending on L or R side



ES2233L TIE ROD END

(substitute ES2234L for no charge if
running the drag link directly to the knuckle)

ES2234R TIE ROD END

 

[68rockcrawler]

Oh, I saw those numbers on their website bud didn't know that those were common part numbers. I just typed those numbers into Autozone's website and it found the rod ends. Thank you.

 

[Bronchole]

85 $hevy Blazer

 

[73stallion]

85 $hevy Blazer

chevy blazer was 1 ton????

 

[Action]

I think the same

I think 1/2-3/4-1 ton all the same but could be wrong.
Jack

 

[Bronchole]

There are a couple things that $huvy did right, thoes TRE's on the 85 Blazer are the one of them. Even though the Blazer TRE's came on even the 1/2 ton chassis, they are the same as many 1 ton applications. That is why they are referred to as 1 ton.

 

[DirtDonk]

Just out of curiosity, what did you bugger up on yours? Did it fail completely, or was it just a bend?
The passenger side is a common one to bend, since it's got that weak area where the draglink mounts, but haven't heard of too many failing completely.

Paul

 

[68rockcrawler]

The TRE seems fine to me but my mechanic said I needed to replace it to pass inspection. It doesn't look bent or messed up at all to me but I am replacing it tonight so I will find out what the problem is. It really seems weird that it is messed up since I have only wheeled it twice since I put this tie rod setup on and I haven't rockcrawled with it at all.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, at last you'll have a spare. But for what I'm wondering? Seems strange he couldn't give you more details.

Paul

 

[74BroncoCO]

Any particular brand better than the other. Amazon has Moog's for a descent price. Ballistic fab has Miller Auto for nearly the same price. All I need is one left side. The others are good for now.

J.D.

 

[Bronchole]

I went with Moog, I have been told that Moog is American steel/manufactured and is a bit more durable. No idea about Miller Auto.

Hey, that was my 1000th post!

 

[yakelys69]

FYI
If it's the passenger side you may need to ream out the hole where the drag link attaches.

 

[74BroncoCO]

FYI
If it's the passenger side you may need to ream out the hole where the drag link attaches.

Why is that? It may already be reamed, but I'd have to look. I think all three joints are the 1ton stuff.

J.D.

 

[yakelys69]

I just purchased a moog and it needed further reaming, maybe some are different I don't know.
ES2233L TIE ROD END

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164063&highlight=Moog

 

[Bronchole]

If your TRE's connect from the bottom of the knuckles then you need to increase the ream diameter to take the drag link end. This is because the ream in the $huvy TRE is meant for a mounting point for the steering stabilizer, not the drag link.

If your TRE's connect from the top of the knuckels (tie rod over steering) then the ream goes in from the back, oppisite of the way the TRE is currently reamed.

 

[hartbronco]

If your TRE's connect from the bottom of the knuckles then you need to increase the ream diameter to take the drag link end. This is because the ream in the $huvy TRE is meant for a mounting point for the steering stabilizer, not the drag link.

If your TRE's connect from the top of the knuckels (tie rod over steering) then the ream goes in from the back, oppisite of the way the TRE is currently reamed.

This is true !!!!! I have this set up , and I have a reamer so I could ream for the drag link to Ty-rod. I think if you are going to do this stearing set up you should get your self a Reamer for down the road when you may need it again .

 

[74BroncoCO]

To add to the knowledge, if the "r" and "l" in the part number reference left and right side, mine is opposite. I need to order the chevy R to fit on the drivers side of my rig. I do have TRO.

As for a reamer, I have found that slow speeds work much better than fast. We were using a drill and getting nowhere. We pulled that and used a air ratchet and got what we needed then!!

J.D.

 

[74BroncoCO]

Got my Moog's from Rock Auto yesterday. The $12.08 was privately labeled and is not a moog, best I can tell. But I ordered it as a spare anyway, so hopefully it'll just sit on the shelf for years.

J.D.

 

[JohnJohn]

I am considering buying the same linkage.

Do you trust the shop that said you need to replace the link end?
It just sounds strange that it would fail so soon.