Clutch adjustment rod

[Brewbro21]

Anyone have any ideas on a better clutch rod? The stock one just doesn't seem as stout, not that it really needs to be, but I'm looking for a better option.

 

[AZ73]

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Extreme_Duty_Clutch_Rod

 

[jmangi62]

That's the one I run with a NV3550, I think they come in longer lengths for body lifts also.

 

[DirtDonk]

You can always fabricate one of your own, but the one we sell that AZ linked to is a very nice piece and already made up. As jmangi said, they're available in different lengths for different height body lifts and the offset is just right to go through the boot and hole in the floor.
Yes, they're adjustable to a certain extent too, but not enough to make up for much of a lift.

Paul

 

[Brewbro21]

What about the clutch fork engagement rod? Is there anyhting better there? This seems like another piece that could be better. Mine has too much movement even after its tight.

 

[AZ73]

Are you talking about this?

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Clutch_Fork_Push_Rod

That's basically a factory copy and it's pretty stout. Maybe your issue is this:

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Equalizer_Bar_Bushing_Kit

Which goes in this:

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Equalizer_Bar

If that doesn't do it for you, you might want to consider a hydraulic system.

after 40 years, my plastic bushings were toast. I replaced them.

If that doesn't do it for you, you might want to consider a hydraulic system.

What exactly do you think is the issue? I had the clutch fork clip go bad making the fork sloppy as it moved across the pivot point. I replaced it.

 

[Brewbro21]

My issue is I have a NV3500 and I have to keep adjusting the rod on my clutch fork because it gets sloppy and then my clutch pedal has to go all the way to the floor to engage it. I've tighten the nuts used a backing nut, a lock nut and it will still get loose.

My clutch is in good shape, its the Center Force that they recommend to use with the NV3500.

I was just seing if anyone has any better ideas or upgrades for the rod to engage my clutch fork.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I made both the adjustment rod and clutch rod. using those little 3/8" heim joints. I threaded the ends of a piece of 3/8" steel rod for the clutch rod and put those little 3/8" heim joints at the ends.
For the adjuster, I used the factory style cone, a piece of all thread, with another heim joint at the end.
It makes for a smoother clutch operation with none of the bushings and the maintenance those require.
I was able to find all the parts except the adjuster cone at a bolt store.

 

[broncoitis]

The pedal assembly could be part of the problem as well. I believe that there are bushing in there that are replaceable after years of wear and tear leading to sloppiness!

Having said that I am running the WH clutch rod with everything else pretty much stock and it all seems to be just fine. I believe I have a jam nut on the back side of the adjustable cone to keep it from moving around but that is how it came from ford I believe and I have converted to the NV3550. ;D

 

[DirtDonk]

I believe that I've heard that the diaphragm style clutches we use these days take a little more travel than the old 3-finger "Long" style that came factory. This does not have to be a problem, but if things are already borderline, any extra slop or flex will just make matters worse.

And is your clutch pedal bumper adjusted properly? (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/ClutchPedalBumper66-77). This is an eccentric thingy that is used primarily to set the clutch pedal height as close to the brake pedal height as is reasonable and still get a full throw on the clutch. It's usually the first step in the clutch pedal adjustment procedure.

Your description of it always needing a readjustment however does sound like one or more of those wear items are on their way out.
The bushings, and possibly even your clutch pedal rod are wearing or wearing out. A pedal rod can wear at the pivots and actually start to bend/deflect as it ages too, which might explain at least part of the issue.
And that wear and bending is pretty much a preview of it breaking completely, like mine did one morning on the way to work.
Another item that wears out and causes adjustment issues is the release bearing fork pivot that's riveted to the bell housing on some models. As it wears or works loose, your clutch can need adjustment to compensate. Until it finally falls off or breaks in half. Again, like mine did many years ago.

So yes, improvements could be had by any or all of the following:

1. Pedal pivot bushings: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Brake-ClutchPedalBushing
2. Pedal rod bushings: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Clutch_Rod_Bushings_Pair, OR
3. A new rod as discussed.
3. Equalizer/Transfer/Z-bar bushings http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Equalizer_Bar_Bushing_Kit
4. The equalizer bar ends themselves can crack and get worse http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Equalizer_Bar
5. Making sure the return spring is good too, to keep consistent tension on things when adjusting and under normal use.
6. Hopefully not one of the fork pivot disasters. What a pain to take it all apart again!!!!

Plus a few more most likely. Many of those items listed would have very little effect on their own, but added together could easily cause what you're experiencing.

Paul

 

[Brewbro21]

Thank you I appreciate the help.