Control Arm Frame Connection Worn

[khmt]

Howdy, I'm doing a frame off restoration and we got everything tore down today to find that the control arm has worn substantially where it connects to the frame on the driver's side. Passengers isn't as bad.

I was going to reach out to the guys at TDK to see if they could send me just this piece. Does anyone have anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks in advance. I've tried uploading a photo but it keeps failing. Sorry

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[DirtDonk]

Hey there. Sounds like you’re talking about what Ford calls track bar and track bar bracket. Upper mount is near the steering box and lower mount is on the axle housing itself?

If so that’s a fairly common problem at the upper end. That bushing is probably one of the more commonly worn out items, and that hole in the frame out is typically wobbled out at least a little bit. However there are fixes, other than replacing entirely.

I think you can buy the bracket by itself from several sources, but you can also weld on thick washers, or better yet use a weld-washer where you drill out the hole larger and weld in this insert that is then the correct hole size for the bolt.

It is a control arm of sorts as you said, but it’s original and official name is a Panhard bar, where Ford and Dodge (so probably Jeep too) refer to them as track bars. Which is also basically correct.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and you can’t upload an image directly to your post without becoming a contributor first. Costs $12 a year and is usually well worth it to most for being able to load images directly.
However in the meantime if you are already using another image hosting site on the Internet you can link to those photos. Alternately you can use your “garage“ and “gallery“ functions and load some images into those areas for us to search.

 

[67 Halfcab]

Thanks in advance. I've tried uploading a photo but it keeps failing. Sorry

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/how-to-upload-photos-become-a-contributor.34373/

 

[khmt]

Thanks for the info on how to post pics.

What I'm referring to is the arm that goes from the front axel to the bottom of the frame.

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[DirtDonk]

Ahh, my mistake. That's more like a normal control arm and I should have picked up on that!
In our case Ford has always called them a "radius arm" so that's what you'll see them referred to here.

As mentioned, new brackets are available from several sources (including us: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Radius_arm_brackets/Bronco_Radius_Arms), or even semi-custom from several fab companies.
Should be a relatively easy fix if you're able to weld. They can be bolted and then welded I think, but you would not want to drive it to have it welded I would not think. Maybe it can be, as I've never done it. But that's just by way of saying be careful if you're not welding them yourself.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks for the pics by the way! They really do make a difference in a discussion like this. And thanks for becoming a contributor so quickly.
I know we'll all try to make it a worthwhile investment.

Paul

 

[67 Halfcab]

Looks like your radius arm brackets still have the factory welding slag on them to protect the welds! It's amazing how bad some of the factory welds are. I swear the ones on my Bronco were made on by a guy who was in his first week of welding school.

Most of the vendors sell replacement brackets. I used Wild Horses brackets when I relocated mine for my long arms. I was happy with their quality.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produ...KnYO3DOB-Rh2WQ469M4SN2U8FknGemOIaAiDmEALw_wcB

 

[khmt]

Thanks for the lingo correction and link. I'll get those from Wild Horse. They've been great to work with thus far.

That frame is sitting in the back of my truck so I won't be driving it anywhere, just hauling.

 

[khmt]

Slag is one thing... we found mig wire all over the place near the rear end of that thing. It made me feel a lot better about my welds.

 

[67 Halfcab]

Are you married to the idea of using stock radius arms? Now is the time to switch to long arms of you are thinking about going that direction.

I have the All 4 Fun Offroad radius arms, but if I was to do it today I would go with Duff's arms.

 

[DirtDonk]

Definitely something to think about!
And yeah, the infamous MIG wire strands are found on a lot of our old Broncos and pickups from the '70's.
I've kept the one on my crossmember intact (in all it's glory!) for almost 46 years now. Hoping to avoid a stuck finger, but getting a kick out of it every time I see it.

Paul

 

[khmt]

@67 Halfcab I'm not married to the idea of keeping the stock ones. This build is basically my wife's dream car and the most off-road action it will see is taking a paddleboard to a Montana mountain lake. Not sure it's worth the bang for the buck. Thoughts?

Current project includes:
-289 rebuild with e-street top end
-Holley Sniper and Hyperspark ignition system
-Speed Gems SBF (it makes it longer but the PA had you hack your bell housing which leaves it open for god knows what to crawl in) to 6R80 with a Lokar and US Shift
-Stock suspension with 2" body to fit the 6R80 (fingers crossed it all fits without any tunnel mod)
-Disk Brakes

 

[67 Halfcab]

Like anything else, it is a tradeoff. Longer radius arms will give you a better ride, but the extra leverage will also increase body roll. To counteract the increased body roll front sway bars may be needed. And my wife wonders why one mod snowballs!

I think most long arms have caster added to help compensate for lift, though, so they may not work with stock spring.

 

[khmt]

I reached out the the guys at Duff and here is what they said:

"Hi good afternoon. No, as long as your factory radius arms are in good working order they should be fine. I would add new Track Bar, C-Bushings and Radius Arm Bushings. Our 14 piece bushing kit is #6502. However the addition of our T-Rex Radius Arms would greatly improve handling and turning radius. Let us know if you have anymore questions."



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[Slednut10]

Honestly, that radius arm mount looks fine. Unless the bushings disappeared and the truck was driven like that for a long time, those generally don’t wear. The radius arm end that goes there however, tends to get rusty and thin. If that’s the case, you don’t need to replace the brackets, just the arms. If you are or plan to run wider tires, thats where the advantage of the Duff T-rex arms comes into play. I personally wouldn’t change those brackets unless I was to going to long arms.

 

[khmt]

Sorry for letting this thread die.

Maybe the picture angle isn’t great. It’s pretty egg shaped. Here’s the arm and you can see decent wear.

I assume I need to at lease replace the drivers side radius arm or the bushing will slosh around and prematurely wear out, correct?

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[gnpenning]

Now is a great time to upgrade your arms. Either the T Rex or long arms depending on how you plan to use it.

While I haven't installed them yet I went with the long arms from Duffs.

 

[DirtDonk]

I don’t know about the bushings wearing faster, but I would replace the arm anyway just for the wear.
Seems like too much of a weak point.

I’m sure you can get many more miles before some catastrophic failure, but who wants to be watching that clock!

 

[khmt]

New arms it is. It’s staying stock height so T-Rex or what else would you guys recommend?

Update: I ordered the T-rex. They look awesome for sure.