Correct PCV hose connection point?

[admin]

Does it matter if the PCV valve is hooked up to the nipple on the carb base plate or to the intake manifold vacuum port?

 

[ugly74]

It doesnt really matter, either will work. But if you're nitpicky like me, youd put it on the carb base, so that the gases getting pulled from the crankcase get distributed evenly to the cylinders

 

[Broncobowsher]

It doesnt really matter, either will work. But if you're nitpicky like me, youd put it on the carb base, so that the gases getting pulled from the crankcase get distributed evenly to the cylinders

Same here.

Full vacuum. I prefer to feed all the cylinders evenly.

 

[DirtDonk]

Factory put it on the carb base for the reasons stated.

The valve can go in either valve cover too, but your '72 would originally have had it in the driver's side oil filler cap. Prior to '71, it would have been in the passenger side and the stock air-cleaner housing would have had the steel welded-on hose fitting for the clean air return on the small part of the cleaner housing over the carburetor, facing the driver's side.

Paul

 

[toddz69]

Does it matter if the PCV valve is hooked up to the nipple on the carb base plate or to the intake manifold vacuum port?

Thinking that will help with the oil consumption, Jon?

Todd Z.

 

[admin]

Thinking that will help with the oil consumption, Jon?

Ha! No, I'm thinking a new engine will help with the oil consumption! Now that I have the correct non-EGR intake and carb base plate I was just verifying that everything was routed correctly.

Thanks for all the info everyone. That's pretty much the answer I was expecting and follows the factory diagrams.

 

[DirtDonk]

If you've got an engine that has relatively low mileage and/or low usage, but uses more oil than it should, I would not hesitate to run a can of oil additive or two.
At least one during each oil change could make all the difference.

You may not remember the story I've told of mine when I bought it. It had roughly 60k miles on it and used a quart of oil every 500 miles or so. Burned it and leaked it very consistently. Also made a lot of noise from the lifters.
After several cans of the thin (solvent based?) additives and a couple of regular oil changes and that went up to 1500 miles, less noise and fewer leaks.
After the third oil change (this was a daily driver at the time), and for the rest of it's life up until I sold the engine with 175k miles on the clock, it used less than a quart of oil between changes (5000 miles originally, down to about 3000 miles with less driving) and didn't make a peep.

Regarding the noise though, some little minor ticking did come back at around 90k, so I just changed the lifters after that.

But the bottom line for me was that, even after the previous owners rode it hard and put it away wet on a regular basis, some good ol' snake-oil therapy worked wonders.

Now, if you've got 200k on the odo, then all bets are off... %)

Paul

 

[admin]

Now, if you've got 200k on the odo, then all bets are off... %)

Yeah, that would be my engine. I'm afraid to put any kind of cleaners in it. I think the sludge is part of what holds it together!