D20 leak from the front output?

[Bundy]

I went out wheeling last weekend which included a 30 mile freeway haul which proved too much for the transfer case seals i guess. The front output is leaking pretty good- had a canteloupe sized puddle under it this morning.

I'm assuming its the front output yoke seal as the fluid is coming out right of the bottom of the yoke bearing cover(?).

Anyway, do I just pop off the driveshaft, pop off the yoke and pull a seal out? Anyone know how to convey what I need to the kragen guys? Am I better off finding them on the net?

 

[Bundy]

I found this Timken part number- pretty sure I have the stock J shift xfer case on my 68'

TIMKEN Part # 450185 Shaft Size: 1.563"; Housing Bore: 2.502"; Seal Width: 0.311"; Seal Outside Dia: 2.508"; Seal Lip Material: Nitrile; Housing Material: Steel; Max Temp: 225°F; Min Temp: -40°F; Seal Type: 450; Press Fit
4WD; Spicer 20, 21; Front
AWD; Spicer 20; Rear
AWD; Spicer 20, 21; Front
4WD; Spicer 20; Rear

 

[Bundy]

I also found this one on Kragen/Oreilly's site-

Part # : 450185 | Line: National

•Front
- Spicer 20 2 Speed Part-Time Transfer Case
- Quantity Per Vehicle: 1
•Rear
- Spicer 20 2 Speed Part-Time Transfer Case
- Quantity Per Vehicle: 1
•Rear
- Spicer 20 2 Speed Part-Time Transfer Case
•Front
- Spicer 20 2 Speed Part-Time Transfer Case

Think that is it?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Timken 450185 is correct.

Yes, remove driveshaft and yoke. I recommend not removing the seal/bearing retainer. It has/should have a gasket between it and the tcase. If you remove the retainer you'll destroy the gasket. Now at this point you're probably thinking you can just use some RTV in place of the gasket. This is not a good idea because it will tighten the endplay of the front output shaft. If the gasket is leaking you need to replace it. You could cut your own with the same thickness gasket material.

Also be aware of the o-ring between the front yoke and washer. It gets smashed into the splines when the nut is tightened. You should replace the o-ring. Just find a similar size at the hardware store.

 

[Bundy]

okay so don't take off the retainer unless I want to replace the gasket (which I don't think is leaking) and replace the 0-ring.

Right now I am trying to get the yoke nut broken but she's on there pretty well. When I put the nut back on is there a torque setting I should be mindful of?

 

[Viperwolf1]

125 ft-lbs will do it.

 

[Bundy]

should I invest in one of these seal installation kits? I've managed in the past with improvising but it sure would be nice to have the right tool.

Would this be what I want to use?

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-12980-Bearing-Installer-Master/dp/B0002SRGFM/ref=pd_sim_auto_2

or go with something cheaper like

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24800-Piece-Seal-Driver/dp/B000P0VTJG/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1324940984&sr=1-19

 

[Viperwolf1]

You won't be able to use that tool with the output shaft in the way.

 

[Bundy]

ah good point- should I just try to buy a big ass socket?

 

[Viperwolf1]

I've just tapped them in with a hammer, working around the edge. A big socket may work if it's deep enough. Be careful with the retainer. It cracks easily.

 

[Hank_]

I replaced mine today and I just use a small block of wood and a hammer and work my way around the seal. Went in no problem.


Henry

 

[Broncobowsher]

Do yourself a favor, drain the transfer case as the first step. It may be leaking, but there is a lot more in there that will want to come out real fast once a big hole becomes an option.

 

[Bundy]

Do yourself a favor, drain the transfer case as the first step. It may be leaking, but there is a lot more in there that will want to come out real fast once a big hole becomes an option.

Great call- I was barely ready for when the yoke came off so when I pull that seal I'm sure it'll open up nice and all over the place hahaha

 

[bad 68]

Once you get the drivline off put the T case in nutral and check for a rough bearing on the front output. Bad bearings make seals leak. I like to RTV the o ring /yoke seal.

An air impact wrench is the best way to get the nut off any shaft that wants to spin.