Dana 30 or Dana 44 for Disc Brakes

[tonytony9]

Hi Everyone,

I am in the process of doing some front end work. I need to replace track bar bushings, tie rod and redo the c-bushings (wrong degrees and I installed incorrectly when redoing all my suspension). Since I will have the thing mostly apart, I want to take the time to do a disc brake swap up front only.

I have been reading a bunch of the threads online. I can't decide if its better (strictly cost efficiency wise) to do the swap on my existing dana 30, or look for a used dana 44 with existing disc brakes.

Buddy has a Dana 44 w/ 3.55 & disc brakes out of a 79 f150. Would I be able to swap this entire assembly into my 70 Bronco?

What other options do I have? I am trying to avoid spending the ~$800+ on swaping disc brakes onto my Dana 30. I do not wheel this rig. Its a street cruiser that I would love to be able to get more pep out of down the line for the highway (will be rebuilding the motor later this year).

 

[Broncobowsher]

The '79 F150 axle will be full width. If that is your plan, it can adapt in pretty easy. Looking at your profile picture, that bronco looks really stock, than that F150 axle will be a poor choice. It is a lot wider than what a Bronco is.

Just because you have a '70, no telling what has happened in the past 55 years. Look at the knuckles. If the top of the knuckle has 4 small bolt heads, you have the Dana 30 axle and the '79 brakes will NOT fit. If it is a single large nut on the ball joint, the '79 brakes will bolt to the axle but there will still be some tie rod issues.

Or do the GM based brakes and it won't matter if you have a 30 or a 44, they fit the same. I have not priced GM disk brake kits in years, thought they were still way less than $800

 

[serial car restorer]

I have not priced GM disk brake kits in years, thought they were still way less than $800

They currently range from $620-850 from the usual suspects, plus shipping which is considerable. I've considered rolling my own kit, but getting all new parts is more attractive.

 

[SteveL]

Look for a stock eb 44 housing and swap the full width parts to it

 

[tonytony9]

The '79 F150 axle will be full width. If that is your plan, it can adapt in pretty easy. Looking at your profile picture, that bronco looks really stock, than that F150 axle will be a poor choice. It is a lot wider than what a Bronco is.

Just because you have a '70, no telling what has happened in the past 55 years. Look at the knuckles. If the top of the knuckle has 4 small bolt heads, you have the Dana 30 axle and the '79 brakes will NOT fit. If it is a single large nut on the ball joint, the '79 brakes will bolt to the axle but there will still be some tie rod issues.

Or do the GM based brakes and it won't matter if you have a 30 or a 44, they fit the same. I have not priced GM disk brake kits in years, thought they were still way less than $800

They currently range from $620-850 from the usual suspects, plus shipping which is considerable. I've considered rolling my own kit, but getting all new parts is more attractive.

Look for a stock eb 44 housing and swap the full width parts to it

Thank you for the information. I am going to give Nick @ NE Ford a call to discuss some options, and pick ups to avoid that nasty shipping bill.

Here are some photos of my front end. Definitely a D30, I have the four nuts. My Bronco is DEAD stock/original all the way through and through.

My goal is to increase performance and on-street drivability. The drum's work decent, but I want power brakes. Power steering, ehhh not really a want. I have a really decent shake, around 55-60 mph. My toe is bad, but need a new tie rod to attack that. My caster is too low, wrong c-bushings. I want this thing to drive more smoothly at 70 on the highway. I currently have all new suspension components, hardware, buckets, straps, leafs, coils, bilstein shocks, ect... all stock ride height.

 

[tonytony9]

 

[DirtDonk]

I have a really decent shake, around 55-60 mph.

Lots of things can cause it. A few more can allow it to be more noticeable.
A lot of things to check.

My toe is bad, but need a new tie rod to attack that.

Have you tested how bad they are?
If they’re only a little bad, why not just adjust your toe in? You can still adjust it even if it doesn’t stay perfectly consistent.

My caster is too low, wrong c-bushings.

They were already too low from the factory because of manual steering. Worked OK back then, but could be better.
I forget if you said if the bronco was lifted? Still stock?
Lack of caster is probably not causing the shimmy shimmy shake.
How old are the tires? Not miles, but age.

I want this thing to drive more smoothly at 70 on the highway. I currently have all new suspension components, hardware, buckets, straps, leafs, coils, bilstein shocks, ect... all stock ride height.

Should help a lot. Especially the shocks. But tires and alignment are also a huge part of this.

Have you performed the steering test yet?
Just to see what all is loose?
And don’t forget wheel bearings in all this. Even the ones in the rear!

 

[tonytony9]

Lots of things can cause it. A few more can allow it to be more noticeable.
A lot of things to check.

Have you tested how bad they are?
If they’re only a little bad, why not just adjust your toe in? You can still adjust it even if it doesn’t stay perfectly consistent.

They were already too low from the factory because of manual steering. Worked OK back then, but could be better.
I forget if you said if the bronco was lifted? Still stock?
Lack of caster is probably not causing the shimmy shimmy shake.
How old are the tires? Not miles, but age.

Should help a lot. Especially the shocks. But tires and alignment are also a huge part of this.

Have you performed the steering test yet?
Just to see what all is loose?
And don’t forget wheel bearings in all this. Even the ones in the rear!

How can I adjust the toe given the condition of my tie rods? They look severely rusted. Serious question if you have any tips. I have not measured them, just eye balling. And given my alignment reading from before my new suspension…I also assume tie rods assembly is necessary, not just bushings.

I have checked my wheel bearings, they seem solid. But that was about a year ago. Should be check again.

My bronco is stock height. My tires are I believe from 2021/22, also need to check. What degree c bushing do you recommend? I am also considering doing a 1-2 inch body lift (I believe the Bilstein 5100’s can accommodate) as I like the uncut look just with a tiny bit of lift. I assume my degree bushing will also change if I add a 1-2 inch body lift (might do a transmission swap down the line).

 

[DirtDonk]

How can I adjust the toe given the condition of my tie rods? They look severely rusted.

Yeah, they usually are. Mine took a lot of work the first time.
And they were only 10 years old at the time!
Start by wire brushing the threads that you can see. Clean them up the best you can.
Then take the open slots and threads and spray a penetrating lubricant on them. A week ahead of time!
Yes, usually it takes a little time to soak through. They’ve been sitting out in the weather and getting the brunt of road grime and debris for many years.
Sometimes it takes a little while to break the adjusting sleeves loose.

I have not measured them, just eye balling.

Give it a good measurement with a tape measure anyway. Don’t eyeball.
Sometimes you get close by eyeballing, but most of the time we’re only talking about a 16th of an inch difference between good and bad.
So use a tape and create some consistent measuring points. We’ve had some good discussions about just how to get a good measurement. If we need to write it again here we can.

And given my alignment reading from before my new suspension…I also assume tie rods assembly is necessary, not just bushings.

What were the measurements? If they’re not within inspect, it doesn’t mean that something’s worn out necessarily. Of course there’s a good chance. It is, but it’s not a guarantee.
Hence, the recommendation to do the Steering test. Which we can describe here as well if you need it.

I have checked my wheel bearings, they seem solid. But that was about a year ago. Should be check again.

I would say so. But just what does “they seem solid“ mean exactly?
The correct adjustment measurement is between .001” and .010” free play.

My bronco is stock height. My tires are I believe from 2021/22, also need to check.

That’s great. That’s pretty new.

What degree c bushing do you recommend?

Depends on what caster is now. And are you intending to keep the suspension at stock height?

I am also considering doing a 1-2 inch body lift (I believe the Bilstein 5100’s can accommodate) as I like the uncut look just with a tiny bit of lift.

Body lift has no effect on alignment settings, or shock size.

I assume my degree bushing will also change if I add a 1-2 inch body lift (might do a transmission swap down the line).

Nope. Caster is only affected by changing the suspension height.
Body lift is literally just pushing the body up off the frame. The only steering linkage that is affected is the shaft in the steering column.

 

[DirtDonk]

I should’ve mentioned something to do before bothering to go through all the trouble of adjusting the tie rods. Actually check to make sure that they’re in good condition first.
Just like you are suggesting, if they’re worn out then adjusting toe only does so much good.
But if they’re simply rusty, outside appearance has nothing to do with inner workings.
So do the “dry steering test“ where a helper rocks the wheel back-and-forth while you watch everything.
If the tie rods are still tight, you can certainly adjust them. If they’re flopping all over the place, then whatever settings you give it now, though possibly helpful in the short term, will certainly change when you put in new components.

 

[DC_Gearhead]

I tried to install a “cheaper” front disc conversion on my D30 but couldn’t make it fit well. Ended up buying a WH front disc set that installed in a couple of hours. Wish I had started with that. Disc brakes make a big difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tonytony9]

Yeah, they usually are. Mine took a lot of work the first time.
And they were only 10 years old at the time!
Start by wire brushing the threads that you can see. Clean them up the best you can.
Then take the open slots and threads and spray a penetrating lubricant on them. A week ahead of time!
Yes, usually it takes a little time to soak through. They’ve been sitting out in the weather and getting the brunt of road grime and debris for many years.
Sometimes it takes a little while to break the adjusting sleeves loose.

Give it a good measurement with a tape measure anyway. Don’t eyeball.
Sometimes you get close by eyeballing, but most of the time we’re only talking about a 16th of an inch difference between good and bad.
So use a tape and create some consistent measuring points. We’ve had some good discussions about just how to get a good measurement. If we need to write it again here we can.

What were the measurements? If they’re not within inspect, it doesn’t mean that something’s worn out necessarily. Of course there’s a good chance. It is, but it’s not a guarantee.
Hence, the recommendation to do the Steering test. Which we can describe here as well if you need it.

I would say so. But just what does “they seem solid“ mean exactly?
The correct adjustment measurement is between .001” and .010” free play.

That’s great. That’s pretty new.

Depends on what caster is now. And are you intending to keep the suspension at stock height?

Body lift has no effect on alignment settings, or shock size.

Nope. Caster is only affected by changing the suspension height.
Body lift is literally just pushing the body up off the frame. The only steering linkage that is affected is the shaft in the steering column.

See below for my alignment. Keep in mind, this is before installing new shocks, coils, springs, hardware, radius arms (with the c-bushings installed incorrectly, sigh). I still have the same tie rod, track bar, that was on when I had this alinement done.

 

[tonytony9]

I should’ve mentioned something to do before bothering to go through all the trouble of adjusting the tie rods. Actually check to make sure that they’re in good condition first.
Just like you are suggesting, if they’re worn out then adjusting toe only does so much good.
But if they’re simply rusty, outside appearance has nothing to do with inner workings.
So do the “dry steering test“ where a helper rocks the wheel back-and-forth while you watch everything.
If the tie rods are still tight, you can certainly adjust them. If they’re flopping all over the place, then whatever settings you give it now, though possibly helpful in the short term, will certainly change when you put in new components.

Can you explain what the "dry steering test" is? Based on the photos above, they appear to be in rough shape. I have a feeling I will be torching, not just using PB unfortunately. I have to wait to when I am back at the garage to really see if they are tight.

Sometimes you get close by eyeballing, but most of the time we’re only talking about a 16th of an inch difference between good and bad.
So use a tape and create some consistent measuring points. We’ve had some good discussions about just how to get a good measurement. If we need to write it again here we can.

Can you explain or link me to this test?

 

[tonytony9]

I tried to install a “cheaper” front disc conversion on my D30 but couldn’t make it fit well. Ended up buying a WH front disc set that installed in a couple of hours. Wish I had started with that. Disc brakes make a big difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input. So I guess the consensus is the best option is to get a full kit from a vendor, rather than piecing it together?