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Dana 44 knuckle (Reid Racing) Pre-load

kenlaird

New Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2009
Messages
17
I'm trying to install a set of Reid Racing knuckles on my Dana 44. In spite of all of the great videos on YouTube, including Michael's on the Duff channel, I can't seem to get these knuckles to comply with these procedures for setting the pre-load. I somehow got the passenger side set over 10 lbs after doing a re-assembly and a lot of banging. I'm calling that one good for now. I was able to then get the adjusting nut/sleeve out and reset. As soon as the crown nut got torqued, the pre-load relaxed, just not as much as the first round of torque bottom, adjust sleeve, and torque top. On the driver's side, the same thing is happening, but I can't seem to get a pre-load above 5 lbs. Anyone here with Reid knuckle experience? If so, how did you get yours adjusted? I'd like to get them somewhat even and above 5 lbs.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,602
It’s not necessarily a Reid knuckle issue, as much as a ball joint problem.
We’ve been having this problem for at least 10 years now, where modern replacement ball joints don’t torque correctly with the sleeves.

Are your adjusting sleeve/collars sticking through the lower end of the upper yoke? Or are all the threads still up inside? What torque values are you using on the sleeves?
And you are measuring your pull torque after the final upper nut torquing. Correct?

By the way, there is no specified minimum torque rating. Less than 5 pounds sounds unusual, not horrible.
If it’s loose and floppy, not so much.
The factory specification doesn’t give a minimum. Just says less than 26 pounds, or something like that. Sorry I don’t have my book in front of me.
It doesn’t say anything about less than 10 pounds being bad.
Are your readings more than zero?
 
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kenlaird

kenlaird

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Mar 3, 2009
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Thanks a million for replying. I was hoping you would! I will check the sleeves for protrusion below the upper yoke. Torque values on the sleeves were all less than 30 I believe. I started out measuring them, but I was easily getting to level of firmness in the pre-load. On both sides, as soon as I tightened the upper nut, the pre-load let up. Then I pulled off the upper nut, and the sleeve would be pretty much frozen in there with that special tool starting to damage the sleeve. That tool is not meant for extreme use and starts buggering up the sleeve. On the passenger side, I completely dismounted the knuckle and started over. Once the upper joint loosened, I was able to move the sleeve. After reassembly and re-adjustment, I was able to get around 12 lbs of preload, which feels pretty nominal. Moving to the driver's side, pretty much the same story except that I did not take the bottom nut off and dismount the knuckle. After I got the sleeve out, it was somewhat buggered up from the tool, so I reused one of the sleeves that came out of the old knuckles. It was in better shape and I cleaned it up. Put it in and adjusted the pre-load again. Same issue after the upper nut went on, only this time I was still getting 4 to 5 lbs of resistance. Should I not worry about this imbalance? A protruding sleeve will probably jack up the rubber boot so I'll double check for that. Any other potential concerns or considerations?
 

bfluegel

New Member
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
33
I recently installed the Reid knuckles with new ball joints. It was the usual trial-and-error struggle, but not that different from Bronco or F150 knuckles.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
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Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,932
Loc.
Upper SoKA
What brand of ball-joints are you using?

In the D44 TTB world the Mevotech are the current favorites. I've had good service from mine thus far (~2 years, ~20K) and I don't recall setting the pre-load being difficult.
 
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kenlaird

kenlaird

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Mar 3, 2009
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Spicer. I don't know what TTB means, pardon my ignorance, but I have heard of Mevotech. I haven't seen a part number for the upper ball joint yet. Summit has the lower ones. If the battle with the Spicer ones continues much longer, I'll head in that direction. This whole thing is frustrating and ridiculous. Any other recommendations? Thanks!
 
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kenlaird

kenlaird

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Mar 3, 2009
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FYI, the adjusting sleeves are extended below the bottom of the upper yoke on both knuckles. Not sure if that's bad. The sleeves are just about the same height as the yoke. Should I care about the mismatch in pre-load?
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
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Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,932
Loc.
Upper SoKA
TTB = Twin Traction Beam, Ford's early IFS; '80 - '96 Broncos & 4wd F-150's have it.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Nov 3, 2003
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FYI, the adjusting sleeves are extended below the bottom of the upper yoke on both knuckles.
How far? Just a couple of threads? Or more?
Not sure if that's bad.
It’s mainly showing that they aren’t made the same way they used to be. And it’s not really a problem if the adjustments are able to zero in on the specification.
The sleeves are just about the same height as the yoke.
You mean, the four notches are right at the upper edge of the yoke, where the nut sits?
Should I care about the mismatch in pre-load?
Good question. I really don’t know.
Seems like equal would be better, but I don’t remember ever seeing that put into words. The specification simply calls for “less than” a specific number.
Meaning that more than that number is bad. But not necessarily a problem being lower.
 

DirtDonk

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I’ve had this problem with Spicer, TRW, and Moog.
This whole thing is frustrating and ridiculous. Any other recommendations? Thanks!
Don’t let yourself get too frustrated. We don’t even know it’s a true problem yet.
Hopefully someone with more engineering and alignment/steering experience can shed some light.
Your 5 pounds sounds light, but I don’t think I’ve ever heard anybody complain about their easy steering knuckle movement being a problem.
 
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kenlaird

kenlaird

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Mar 3, 2009
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Thanks very much for all of the responses. I need a go forward plan and I think that needs to be disassembly and a re-do of the driver's side knuckle mounting with the 5 lbs of pre-load. I have another adjuster sleeve if needed. I may test out putting the adjuster just below the top of the yoke. It almost seems like the torque setting on it is somewhat meaningless with the current ball joint tolerances. Whatever happens with that, up or down inside the yoke, the goal is the pre-load number as close as possible to the other one that runs 10 to 12 lbs (depending on direction pulled). I'll suppress further venting about this. It is what it is. I need to get done and move on. Many thanks again for all of the input (which is still welcome for anyone who'd like to chime in). :)(y)
 
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