Dana 44 wheel bearing tension

[johnbeck]

I bought WARN spindle nut kit. Dana 44 - "Tighten to 50LBS while turning". Back off 90 degrees(1/4) turn. Install lock washer(Key in spindle groove), TIGHTEN Inner Bearing Nut, aligning the pin into nearest lockwasher hole(Possibly flip offset washer to provide closest hole). Install outer nut, tighten for DANA 44 160 to 205 LBS. Question: Who tightens to 160 Lbs.?

 

[DirtDonk]

I've never gone that high, but I've never gone below the minimum of 70lbs I've read.
If you look in different books (even Ford books) you see different final torque recommendations. Even between model years with the same axle!
I believe the range I've seen is from 70 to 150 lbs. Not sure I've ever seen 160-205 until just now.

But from my daily-driving experience, 70-75 lbs will cinch down on the bearings and stay tight for a long time. But I still do mine to 80-100 when I set them up.

Not quite the same as their instructions, I usually first try the flipping method to line up a hole. Then if that does not work I reach in with a finger and gently push the inner adjusting nut tighter until the pin falls in a hole.
Then I tighten the outer locking nut down to at least 80lbs and done.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and if you're the type that checks each stage of your work (which is not a bad habit mind you) then don't go crazy about the huge amount of bearing end play after backing off the first adjusting nut 90 degrees. It literally goes away when you tighten down the outer nut.

But remember, you should always feel at least a little play if you have a sensitive touch. The spec is something like .002" to .010" and mine usually fell into the .005" to .006" range when done with the final torque.

Unlike what you might read in different places, there is no such thing as "bearing preload" when it comes to these bearings. Preload is not a thing here!
Only a slight free play is correct.

Paul

 

[SevenT]

Torque setting

Johnbeck,

I agree with Paul, I never go over 80 ft lbs. on the outer nut. Mine has never backed off.

v/r,

SevenT

 

[bronconut73]

Found this in one of my old manuals.
I bought it in the late 90's.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's an interesting take on things. What book is that specifically?
The 150lbs kind of puts it in the middle of things, but that much torque coupled with the less-than-quarter-turn adjustment seems odd.
I've never seen any text say 45° instead of the normal 90° before.

Thanks for posting it up. Just goes to show that they were still figuring things out as they went I guess. The old 90 degree method always worked for me. Put it right at that .006" they were talking about as a maximum.

Paul

 

[bronconut73]

It is a 90's (maybe '96) Hayes Manual for '73 to '96 F-Series and Bronco.
The cover and first few pages are shot. But I am sure it's a Hayes Manual.

I always heard quarter turn too. I just always had to look up the torque rating for the nut,

 

[johnbeck]

Thanks so much for you input. I just looked at a 1973 thru 1979 HAYES Bronco and F150-350 Repair Manual, published 1983. It states 50 lbs.,"back off approximately 90 degrees". "Wheel bearing locknut----1973 thru 1976---80 to 100", " 1977 thru 1979---50 to 70". The Warn install sheet may be high because of the wide spectrum of vehicles using the Dana 44. I'm going 80 to 90. Thanks. ... My old P.C. torque wrench broke, bought a Sears- Will the Sears be accurate enough? Shoud I chance it or buy what? I don't want to strip threads - Help.

 

[DirtDonk]

I think the Sears wrenches are as accurate as most will be. Never found reason to suspect any of mine in the 60 years my dad before, then later that I've been using them.
First the beam-type that are likely more effected by how the user is handling it, and the clicker type that are going to be more consistent even if the wielder is not.

Frankly though, because there's such a wide range or usable torques listed in the various books (50lbs through 205lbs!!!) you could be fine with using anything other than a hammer and chisel!

Paul

 

[cs_88]

From a '74 shop manual.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've always torqued the inner to 50 ft. lbs. then backed it off 90*.
Then the outer nut to 80 ft. lbs. with my trusty Craftsman bender bar torque wrench.
I do this every year, following my deep water maintenance package, at the end of every trout season.
I now have over 300K miles on those front wheel bearings. I'd say the Chiltons book is correct.

 

[sanndmann3]

From a '74 shop manual.

Yep, my shop manual has the same info... just did the drivers side today. took it to 100 for the outer.