Dash hole cuttin', bit sizes etc...

[Bundy]

What are the best circular drill bits to use to cut out holes in my new dash?

I need to cut holes for my standard autometer gauges and the normal stock stuff- i got the one from BC with the offset GB and speedo hole already but wondering since i am sure this has been done before, so maybe someone can tell me if i need to go a certain bit larger than the guage in order to get them in.

i also plan on powdercoating my dash, so i am sure the thickness would affect the size hole i need to cut. I know to use a punch to mark the center to get my hole started...

mostly looking for input/advice so i don't F*** up my expensive new dash, aka learning from the mistakes of others or the triumphs!

thanks!

 

[cs_88]

My best advice if you end up using a hole saw is to be very careful not to bend the pilot bit, it makes for a very sloppy hole. I would centerpunch the hole, carefully drill it out with a 1/4" bit and then use the hole saw, that will help prevent bending the pilot bit.

 

[Bundy]

ah good call... thanks for the advice!

 

[garberz]

After you paint it, make sure you get some good ground contact. The speedo grounds to the dash, turn signals, dash lights, etc. Is this going to be finished before TDS ?

 

[Pa PITT]

Remember when you center push the dash ... get a straight line, do one end then, the other end and come back and find center. Also your working with a big flat item with nothing on the back for support when you center punch it you can bend the hole dash ..Be careful there .Maybe a 3 hand holding a 2x4 block behind the dash would also help ..Good luck.

 

[DonsBolt]

It is much better to cut the holes on the small size, then with a file, dremil or simillar tool open it up till the gauge fits snug.

 

[Bundy]

After you paint it, make sure you get some good ground contact. The speedo grounds to the dash, turn signals, dash lights, etc. Is this going to be finished before TDS ?

I am hoping to have it done before TDS- i have the dash and i am going to have it powdercoated. maybe i will go in with the dremil and file off the coating around the opening so it can ground- thanks for bringing that up.

It is much better to cut the holes on the small size, then with a file, dremil or simillar tool open it up till the gauge fits snug.

that's a good idea, thanks for the reply.

 

[bmc69]

It is much better to cut the holes on the small size, then with a file, dremil or simillar tool open it up till the gauge fits snug.

That works, I'm sure, but I have had no issues using a good quality bi-metal hole saw that is the hole size for the gage right off. Like the standard 2 1/8" gages for example...

 

[knack]

My best advice if you end up using a hole saw is to be very careful not to bend the pilot bit, it makes for a very sloppy hole. I would centerpunch the hole, carefully drill it out with a 1/4" bit and then use the hole saw, that will help prevent bending the pilot bit.

And, do it in a drill press. At a low speed.

 

[Bundy]

a drill press would be awesome... if i owned one

maybe a harbor freight special LOL

I am thinking about doing all my switches on a thin piece of aluminum so i can pull them all out if i need to and only have one rectangular cut out in the dash instead of lot's of little holes.

for my switch grounds, they have grounding blocks right? what i mean is i can shave down the powdercoating in one spot for a good ground and have them all ground in the same spot?

also, will there be enough of a ground to do this? the dash from BC says it has "hidden grounding studs" but i haven't looked for them or seen them because they are, well... they are hidden

 

[knack]

I put my switches and a couple gauges on a separate panel, then hinged it. After this picture was taken I installed a couple terminal blocks. One was used for grounds, the other for 12V power. The grounding block was wired to a bare spot on the body behind the dash.
Go ahead and buy a cheap drill press. I paid $50 for an old used one. Any drill press will make this stuff a lot easier.

 

[Bundy]

Knack, that looks really good. what kind of switches did you use?

 

[deltarat]

I put my switches and a couple gauges on a separate panel, then hinged it. After this picture was taken I installed a couple terminal blocks. One was used for grounds, the other for 12V power. The grounding block was wired to a bare spot on the body behind the dash.
Go ahead and buy a cheap drill press. I paid $50 for an old used one. Any drill press will make this stuff a lot easier.

knack, that is a cool panel. I screwed my center panel similar to that, but I wish I had made the whole dash to swing down for easier changes without having to let the windshield down to remove the dash. I will change it one day. I put a brass lug on the back of the dash for all grounds and tied it to a grounding lug under the hood that is connected to the battery ground.

 

[Stroppe-Envy-77]

What are the best circular drill bits to use to cut out holes in my new dash?

I need to cut holes for my standard autometer gauges and the normal stock stuff- i got the one from BC with the offset GB and speedo hole already but wondering since i am sure this has been done before, so maybe someone can tell me if i need to go a certain bit larger than the guage in order to get them in.

i also plan on powdercoating my dash, so i am sure the thickness would affect the size hole i need to cut. I know to use a punch to mark the center to get my hole started...

mostly looking for input/advice so i don't F*** up my expensive new dash, aka learning from the mistakes of others or the triumphs!

thanks!

Years ago I worked at a place that had two-way radios and old school mobile phones (pre-cellular!) in all the company vehicles.

The guy who did our installs used something called a chassis punch to make the holes in the roofs and trunk lids for the antennas. It was a hardened steel thing that assembled from each side of the metal (after he drilled a 1/4" hole to start), then were tightened together with a wrench until they sheared the metal out in a perfect circle with no burrs at all.

He had a metal box with lots of different sizes. I never did figure out if they were considered an electronics tool, a body shop tool, or whatever.

You might try to track one down...maybe they show up used on eBay? Just a thought.

 

[hmaspec]

Hi
They're also called knockout punches avaliable in different sizes and shapes commonly used by those in the electrical/electronics field. See Home Depot or even Harbor Freight electrical section. Hope this helps

 

[knack]

Knack, that looks really good. what kind of switches did you use?

Thanks! I used standard SPST toggle switches with screw terminals. Each one has a LED wired to it.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/44252/TOGGLE SWITCH SEALED METAL/

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/47662/LED INDICATOR LIGHT RED/

 

[Bundy]

Hi
They're also called knockout punches avaliable in different sizes and shapes commonly used by those in the electrical/electronics field. See Home Depot or even Harbor Freight electrical section. Hope this helps

Those knockout punches are awesome! what size is the standard autometers?

Thanks! I used standard SPST toggle switches with screw terminals. Each one has a LED wired to it.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/44252/TOGGLE SWITCH SEALED METAL/

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/47662/LED INDICATOR LIGHT RED/

Thanks for the info Knack!

 

[Bundy]

so i did some research on knockouts and of course i have all 2-5/8" autometers and that size knockout is $130, just for the bit.

so i guess it's on to a hole saw then LOL. i found a bitchin drill press on craigslist with a radial head and a stand for $175... the hole saw bit will totally work with a standard drill or a drill press right? it has a 3/8 chuck on it and i would assume most bits are 1/4" or 3/8"?

 

[ransil]

a drill press would be awesome... if i owned one

maybe a harbor freight special LOL

I am thinking about doing all my switches on a thin piece of aluminum so i can pull them all out if i need to and only have one rectangular cut out in the dash instead of lot's of little holes.

for my switch grounds, they have grounding blocks right? what i mean is i can shave down the powdercoating in one spot for a good ground and have them all ground in the same spot?

also, will there be enough of a ground to do this? the dash from BC says it has "hidden grounding studs" but i haven't looked for them or seen them because they are, well... they are hidden

If you cannot find the hidden ground, weld a bolt to the dash to make your own ground stud, then make sure you run a wire from there to one of your main chassis /battery or frame grounds, 14-16 gauge wire should be all that is necessary for this. Your chassis & frame grounds have welded ground studs don't they??

 

[Evian]

I used a bi-metal hole drill bit. There was a guy selling a 15 piece bi-metal hole drill bit with arbor for $89. The sizes went from 1-5 inch. He might still a few left. I picked up just one at Home Depot and I paid over $30 for it. The moment I saw that listing on Ebay I immediate bought a set. So far they have proven themselves worthy of keeping. I made a hole in my Jeep for the snorkel. I also made a hole to install a speedo in my dash. It worked perfectly. He also ships it out quickly almost the same day. I was amazed how fast it got to my house.


I went back to check and he has another set selling for $89.95 or best offer. The Item number is 190331412109.

This is what you get # 15 piece PTS Bi-Metal Holesaws 14 Holesaws and 1 Arbor sizes
# 5"
# 4 1/2
# 4 1/4
# 4" Buy 2 sets-$82.30 ea.= $164.60 save $15.30 {2 ARBORS}
# 3 1/2
# 3" Buy 3 sets-79.95 ea.= $239.85 save $30.00 {3 ARBORS}
# 2 3/4
# 2 1/2 Buy 4 sets-GET ONE SET FREE 89.95 ea.= $359.80 SAVE $89.95 {ONLY TWO ARBORS}
# 2 3/8
# 2
# 1 3/4
# 1 1/2
# 1 1/4
# 1
# 1 Arbor