Direct to Metal Primer Recommendation

[fordguy]

I personally like PPG, but would like to know what y’all are having success with on DTM. I would also take recommendations on color, going single stage, non metallic. Once again, I like PPG but my minimal experience with auto paint is limited to ppg. Now that I found the original paint code reference site, I think my choices are much wider now. I like the old school look of single stage, not a clear coat guy.

 

[Rumcustom]

When I prep I give the surface a thorough cleaning and my first coating is with etch primer. Over that I seal with an epoxy primer. From there it depends how much work is needed if I will go to a high-build primer for sanding before paint, or work with what I have to fill/sand on just a few spots, recoat with epoxy, sand, and then paint.

Others may skip the etch primer and start with epoxy, which IS acceptable.

 

[AC932]

I use rattle cans of Rustoleum 2 in 1 Filler/Sandable primer. With a clean surface its held up pretty well.

Definitely not saying that's the best, most durable option, but it has worked for me.

 

[snipes243]

spi epoxy primer

 

[1buckeyefan1]

spi epoxy primer

I just used SPI epoxy primer one some axles and an engine block (based on recommendation of this forum). SPI has a really helpful tech line and active forums.. price was reasonable, and shipping is factored in. I really debated on leaving the SPI black epoxy on the axles, but the gloss level wasn't as consistent as i liked.. so i top coated with a PPG urethane from their industrial line.

I aso used some Nason Ful-Poxy recently on my tub (before i learned about SPI).. Both seemed to spray really nicely. The Nason was a litte more of a matte finish vs. SPI was more of a semi-gloss finish.

 

[Madgyver]

PPG epoxy primer is what I use.

 

[Spaggyroe]

spi epoxy primer

This is what I use as well.

 

[jamesroney]

I used to believe that the correct foundation for an automotive finish was to use an etching primer, followed by filler as necessary, followed by epoxy primer, high build primer, then single stage color.

But then I learned that the San Jose Factory painted my Mustang floor pans and underside with "slop grey" paint. Slop grey comes from mixing leftover single stage color from the previous paint jobs.

Since Ford thought it was OK to use single stage acrylic enamel on bare metal...I am now questioning why I need to use ANY primer. If the single stage topcoat can be used on floorpans, and last 50 years...then it should be good enough to spray on directly.

So last week, on my roadster cowl...I painted it with single stage enamel on bare metal. I hit it with a DA at 180...and cleaned with wax and grease remover and shot it. I have to admit that it came out really nice. WAY better than I expected.
I'm going to give it a few months and see how well it holds on.

I think it might be OK for door jambs, and fender aprons, etc. I'm not ready to try it on anything that needs to be pretty.

(That being said...if there is any filler, or dissimilar material...you really do need a sealer.)

 

[1970 Palmer]

I painted my car trailer with PPG DTM white primer and the trailer sat outside in the weather 365 days each year. It held up very well, for the application. I would not use it on my Bronco.

I believe, as paint products have improved over the years, so have the old school applications. Based on what my PPG paint dealer says, etch primers are outdated by todays epoxy primer on bare metals. Even on my "new" aluminum trailer skins, they recommend to skuff the skin with 320, use a wax/grease remover, and shoot two coats of epoxy primer. Sand it for the top coat next day (before it fully hardens). Shoot your top coat.

I have had good luck with SPI epoxy primer, and also TCP primers.

John

 

[66ALRIDE]

I did all of these with Nason. The blue with Nason Epoxy and the orange one with SEM’s metal lock on bare metal. The SEM’s is a epoxy/urethane that actually has great metal adhesion and filling capability. The blue was painted in 2010 and sold at Mecum last month. Nason is similar to DuPont but cheaper line. The are all basecoat clear coat.

 

[fordguy]

I did all of these with Nason. The blue with Nason Epoxy and the orange one with SEM’s metal lock on bare metal. The SEM’s is a epoxy/urethane that actually has great metal adhesion and filling capability. The blue was painted in 2010 and sold at Mecum last month. Nason is similar to DuPont but cheaper line. The are all basecoat clear coat.

So here is bay tree green vs blue. Reference my color choice poll post

 

[DC_Gearhead]

I’ve use PPG, Eastwood, and TCP Custom Shop epoxy. To me it all acts about the same. A little different thickness and gun tip, but the same outcome. There are big differences in pot life and recoat times tho, so read the data sheets.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Bronco4x4]

PPG DTM Epoxy Primer, then body putty and final primer.

 

[1970 Palmer]

PPG DTM Epoxy Primer, then body putty and final primer.

Just to clarify. PPG actually makes a water based DTM (direct to metal) primer, which I used on my car trailer. It's not an epoxy primer. It's not even a two part paint.

I would recommend any of the actual (two part) epoxy primers, which can also be applied directly to bare metal as a base for the body repairs and top coats.

I think the term DTM (direct to metal) is a bit confusing.

John

 

[bronkenn]

spi epoxy primer

A really good product with great customer service and a forum that will help you do any paint job you want.

 

[fordguy]

Ended up with SPI, it was recommended by a local body shop I trust. Ordered it from his supplier and they sent it on the next delivery to his shop. Thanks for all the recommendations. The sales rep I talked to said old school epoxy was the best way to go.

 

[bronkenn]

Be sure to use their forum for a lot of useful info.

 

[rguest3]

2-Part PPG Epoxy Primer.

Red Oxide undercarriage looks awesome. Gray on the rest.