Do I have correct striker/door?

[ared77]

My '66 has always had an issue closing the doors. More on the driver side than passenger side. Even when I was test driving it I remember PO saying you have to slam it. I've always kind of pulled in and up and it closed ok.

After learning this morning on another thread about the round/oval door strikers, I thought maybe that's my problem. But after looking I believe I have the correct "Round" strikers for my '66 body and doors. From these pics, what do you think?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Check the body and body mount under the driver's feet. That is the one I usually see collapse (especially the sheetmetal) and throws off the door alignment making the door difficult to close.

And that looks like the correct striker (at least until I can see it on a bigger screen).

 

[thegreatjustino]

Striker is correct for the '66 door.

Work was obviously done on the mounting holes for the latch. Those huge washers are a fix for something. Doors notoriously get out of alignment over the years with body sag and hinge sag. They are a huge pain to adjust.

 

[ared77]

Thanks guys.

 

[DirtDonk]

Looks like a fair amount of damage from decades of slamming maybe.

One way to fix it, if the latch has not gone too far with it's slamming, is to pull the entire latch assembly and soak it good and squeaky clean. Not the kind of clean you get with a spray can of carb cleaner (which will likely screw with the paint anyway!) but the kind you get when every last bit of gunk is removed.

That way you can not only inspect it for damage or wear, but lube it good with something special like waterproof synthetic boat trailer bearing grease or something similar.

If it's too far gone, a new latch will help. But if it's just old and tired, a quick clean-n-lube can do wonders.

Of course, body and door alignment are critical no matter what. So I would always do that first. But don't hesitate to dig in and pull it out. If for no other reason, than to find out just what those bolts and washers are for.

Reducing the need for slamming is also good for the doors internals. Window regulators, channels (especially!) and window frames (especially!). Even though your early window frames are bolted and not welded like later ones, they may still be better off with less door slamming.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[jim3326]

Those large washers a covering cracked sheetmetal, ask me how I know.

 

[Rustytruck]

How about a close up picture of the latch assembly on the door. one straight at it and one picture facing right in to the camming action. the striker post looks to need another shim under it at first glance.

When the door is closed is the top of the tub and the top of the door level?

When the door is approaching the tub during closing, does the door actually have to lift and climb up on the striker post to complete the closure thus making it hard to close?

 

[gregdebkids]

Those "large washers" are the reason I took my doors off, altogether.... I changed the door inner guts and found the doors wouldn't open. After unlatching them from the inside, I saw lots of small cracks along the back side of the door; when I would press the plunger or pull the handle, the metal around the mechanism would flex rather than open. Very frustrating. Good excuse to get door inserts!

 

[ared77]

Thanks for help so far. Here are more pics requested.

 

[Rustytruck]

If it was my truck I would put at least another striker post shim under the base of the striker post.
all of our vendors carry them.

That should help some with excessive slamming.

 

[jim3326]

Before you start messing around with the mechanical part, I would replace the body mounts. After 50+ years they are the problem and probably causing the door misalignment. You can shim under the mounts to get the door to align with the body.

 

[DirtDonk]

What they all said.
But yes, your latest pics just confirm again that it is an early setup. Not just the shape of the striker and design of the latch, but now we see that the key lock cylinder is up on the panel with the door handle. The later style would be down on the main door panel "slab" area below that.

Beautiful paint by the way! How come in this discussion of door latches we don't have more pics of the full body?! Get with it man! You know how we love a good Bronco pic.;D

Are the body mounts/cushions new, or original? Either way, they should be 3/4" tall unless they're body lift cushions.
But that measurement assumes that everything matches the factory specifications still. If your door opening is not square, you need to shim the mounts to make it so.

We can see at least though, that you need to adjust the striker up so that when the door is latched the body lines match mo better.
It's possible that the latch and/or striker have shifted after 50 years and it just needs re-aligning.
Too bad if it's not painted underneath, and you'll see the shift, but it can't be avoided sometimes, when getting things right.

At this point too, it still won't hurt anything to do that full cleaning that I described before. It might not be your issue, but for sure it won't be far down the list unless someone already did it or you have a newer replacement latch.

Paul

 

[ared77]

Thanks again. Now I've got several ideas of things to check/work on.

Here you go Paul -

 

[ared77]

sideways picture....aaarrrrh

 

[DirtDonk]

A real beaut for sure!
Thanks for the pic(s). Including the sideways "wall-crawler" gecko shot!

Paul

 

[Major Tom]

that's a nice 66

 

[ared77]

Thank you sir(s).