yeah the door seals really make the Bronco build completeThanks Brandy. Door seals have always been a bit of an obsession for me.![]()
Where did you get the seat fabric?For those of you who are tired of messing with upper door seals and glue, this stuff fits great and you just push it on over the flange.
I’m still fine tuning and trimming but it’s much easier than messing with glue. It hides your old glue residue and has that nice woven texture on the inside edge.
It should work on the bottom as well if you fillet the clip on part off. All you need is a sharp knife and a cold beer.....
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NDR2B5O/?tag=cbama-20
Where did you get the seat fabric?
Papy, you did exactly what I did. Post #20 in this thread has a picture and a link to Amazon where I got the stuff for the window frame. I have since upgraded to a bulb type seal. Here is the link to it and a picture. Either of those will really help with wind noise. The bulb type is thicker but hollow, so it seals really well.
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This is the bulb type
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This is the narrow foam type![]()
Link doesn't work Papy
seemed to have worked for me when first posted then it went blank the next day.
The upper seals as they came from the factory (and as they are reproduced) span two different body parts....starting from the lower part of the roof at the rear of the door, it runs upward on the flange of the roof and over the side window and then the last part connects to the windshield frame. Therefore, I needed to cut the OEM seal where roof meets windshield frame in order to remove the roof. The vendors do sell a short straight section that just attaches to the windshield frame which is great for running without the roof. However, they do need to be glued on. With Slowleak's solution, I can peel off the trim from both roof and windshield frame, take the roof off, and just use a short straight piece for where the windshield frame meets the door in the summer.curious why you wouldn't just leave them on?? Are the 45* mitered corners glued back together after they're cut and placed??
Hey Slowleak, I just came across your great thread, a simple clean solution that actually looks proper. Siskel and Ebert,The top corners. The bottom is a solid piece. The other thing I did, which helps with wind noise, is add some 1/4 x 1/8 closed cell neoprene around the window frame. Almost has that new car “thunk” when you close the door...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0836Z1HN7/?tag=cbama-20
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Hi Paul! Well, maybe I didn’t do such a good job of cutting the OEM weatherstrip- but I really noticed a lot of wind noise when I put my roof back on for the winter. It’s much better now.I think they were just wondering why you bother with all that. Most of us just cut the mitered corner at the top of the windshield, leave the old seal in place on the windshield, leave the old seal in place on the roof and just remove the roof. As long as the old adhesive was still working no extra work was needed.
No removing of the seals means no replacing of the seals. Just put the top back on as it was and things usually line up and seal just fine.
That hasn’t been your experience?
For those of you who are tired of messing with upper door seals and glue, this stuff fits great and you just push it on over the flange.
I’m still fine tuning and trimming but it’s much easier than messing with glue. It hides your old glue residue and has that nice woven texture on the inside edge.
It should work on the bottom as well if you fillet the clip on part off. All you need is a sharp knife and a cold beer.....
![]()
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NDR2B5O/?tag=cbama-20
So it looks like the square door seal style is no longer sold by Amazon?
Still a little unclear with how you made the lower door portion where the little white clips are.