Okay, there are tons of build threads where folks perform a dove-nose or dove-tail. Here’s a short compilation of the various routes taken:
DOVE-NOSE
Some opt to “simply” perform the dove-nose and leave the rear alone to maximize space for a rear passenger seat and/or cargo space. This route won’t require modifications to your tailgate.
There are various ways to narrow the front grill. You can trim between the slots, remove slots, keep the slots stock width, lengthen the slots or any combination thereof. This is mostly up to personal preference and available space.
2-Slots
2+/3-Slots
4-Slots
4+/5-Slots
The more you trim the more you’ll need to modify or relocate things under the hood. A “few” things that may be affected are your battery, brake booster/master cylinder, overflow bottle, etc. Are you concerned about your engine compartment? Are you ditching the inner wheel wells? If not, you’ll need to relocate the items which are currently mounted to them (i.e., ignition box, starting solenoid, ARB air compressor, etc.).
If you're converting to a 4-slot grill, you'll have to trim the lip on the driver's side fender to clear the firewall. See pic below and Jack's (Iron Bender) 2 pictures down. If you narrow it any further you'll need to either modify the firewall or go with Option 2 identified below.
You’ll need to modify your existing inner fenders or fabricate a trick set. In addition to narrowing your grill, you’ll also need to address the core support. Some take this opportunity to fabricate an elaborate combination radiator and fender support, engine cage, spring mount/shock mount, etc.
The biggest pain is matching up the hood. By angling the fenders inward they’re going to loose length. In theory, the more you angle them in, the more length you’ll loose. The easiest route is to utilize a fiberglass hood (for ease of trimming) and stretching your front fenders to match, which may further compliment extending the front axle forward. You could also shorten your hood or “massage” the corners of your grill and/or fenders to match.
Mine is shark-nosed.
DOVE-TAIL
You can opt to dove-tail the rear and leave your front-end stock.
You’ll need to decide if you’re going to keep your doors and/or tailgate functional. If so, you’ll need to ensure that the door posts and/or tailgate posts remain square.
Option 1 – Cut behind the door jam, angle the quarter panels in the desired amount and stitch everything up.
Option 2 – Cut ~10-12” from the door posts and then angle everything in.
You can keep the tailgate functional or fixed. Functional will require a little ingenuity to cut and weld everything (inside & out) back together. The tail light housings will also need to be squared. Fixed can be cutting your stock tailgate to width and welding it in place or adding tabs and putting up a reinforced steel or fiberglass tailgate skin.
If you’re ditching the doors, you can utilize a sawzall or cutoff wheel to cut along the bottom interior edge of your rear quarters, up and over the rear wheel wells and around the bottom edge of the tailgate posts. After you cut both sides, utilize a heavy-duty ratchet strap to bring the sides in to your liking.
Here's an example of an extreme dovetail!
Here's an example of keeping the tail light housings square.
You can always run fiberglass door inserts with or without soft doors or add tabs to mount reinforced steel or fiberglass door skins.
FULL-BODY NARROW
The trickest of all is, arguably, to narrow the entire tub, removing ~4” from each side of the tub. That’s straight-up sleeper! If you have mad fab skills or if your junk’s all torn apart and the tub’s just sitting there, then maybe this is the route for you.
I hope some of you will find this info useful. Depending on which route you take, if you posses the skills, this can be a relatively “FREE” mod! ;D