So for those of you that are wondering...
I hung the door and fender today and then had to step away to watch my son play JV baseball.
Yes welding the door post in makes it much more rigid and takes a lot of play out of it. Confidence? Blind faith maybe to just go ahead... Or good direction from rjrobin2001 ;D
I went back at it after dinner and everything was very close. I just could not get the upper hinge to come out far enough to match the fender?
So here is something to write down: The plate inside the door post is different from the factory plate. The two outer holes are farther inboard. So I had to support the door, take the upper hinge off, move the plate as far inboard as I could and then take a carbide bit through the hinge bolt holes to trim it. I wish that I had looked at that closer before welding. And it took sometime.
1st picture - shows the post door clearance from the A-pillar. Before it was making contact.
2nd picture - This is how much the hinge had to move outboard. See marker pen marks...
After I got the door to slide out everything just sort of fell into place.
I had to adjust the striker/Nader pin. Clean the the paint off it, run a tap through the threads, reassemble with anti seize.
Make adjustment, lube, readjust...
There still was a little binding, so I put the two stainless washer shims that were there before on the outer bolts. And the binding stopped

Guessing the Hinges are not quite right.
The Hardtop still needs to move back 1/8" on the drivers side, but the upper door is not making contact. The bolts are out of the top, but I think the old gasket is holding it?
So the next step is to finish welding a number of spots, grind smooth, take the door and fender back off, Primer and some rattle can paint, seam seal, then rehang the door.
Then I have to fix the inner fender dent, remove 7 spot welds, flatten panels, remove the PO's pop rivets, every other one > plug weld back together.
Been an interesting ride so far. Thanks for your help Folks.
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