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EB width High Pinion Dana 44

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,773
My current axle is leaking at diff housing / axle tube joints so I’m looking into building an EB width High Pinion Dana 44 for my rig.

What is best donor to look for ?

If I do this should I also go full tilt boogie and get RCV axles ?

Will my existing ARB locker work ? Obviously have to get a set of reverse cut gears.

As you can see in my signature - current set up is 77 with 4.5” WH suspension and recently added Duff long arms. Already using knuckles from 78 - 79 Bronco and TRO linkage with axle riser bracket.

The other option is to transfer all my stuff over to a different EB Dana 44 housing.

Rig drives very nice with current set up but wondering if I can improve it through this process.

All input appreciated.
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,861
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
The pre-78’ housings have 1/2” axle tubing thickness and the wedges and “C’s” are separate from each other. Like your current EB housing. The 78’/79’ housings have 3/8” axle tube thickness and the wedges/C’s are cast together.
The RCV’s are a nice upgrade. I guess it depends on how hard you use your Bronco. 33” tires are still pretty easy on the drivetrain IMO. A good set of Chromo axles with full circle snap rings should last along time.
Your ARB carrier will still work in the HP 44 housing.
You won’t notice any improvements in driving with a HP housing. 6-7* of positive caster is all you need. You can achieve that with the Duff long arms and some 4* bushings. The big advantage with the HP is that the front driveshaft won’t bind nearly as soon under extreme flexing.

When you shorten a full width HP44 to an EB width. The difference is 5.997” on the passenger side, and .625” on the driver’s side. If you only shorten the passenger side tube, (like most people seem to do) you’ll need to run a full width inner axle on the driver’s side for proper, axle to carrier engagement. Something to consider if you order a set of RCV’s.

Mark
 
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Rox Crusher

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,773
You won’t notice any improvements in driving with a HP housing. 6-7* of positive caster is all you need. You can achieve that with the Duff long arms and some 4* bushings. The big advantage with the HP is that the front driveshaft won’t bind nearly as soon under extreme flexing.

Mark

Thanks for the good information Mark.

In reading other threads on this topic there is discussion about relocating the wedges which I assumed was to improve caster (ride) and pinion angle (u-joint longevity). Maybe relocating the wedges was primarily done for proper coil spring alignment?

I primarily use this rig for adventure trips including rock crawling etc. Planning to go on a Rubicon trip this summer. I like to drive mine rather than trailer so that’s why I’m wanting to be mindful of pavement pounder characteristics.
 

1sicbronconut

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
2,442
Getting the pinion out of the dirt is also a huge benefit of the HP, I guess if you can't save the LP housing now would be the time to swap in my book. Might want to look at clearance with your 4R70W also. I'd cut down both sides to EB width so you can reuse your TRO set up.
 

mp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 22, 2001
Messages
2,918
Loc.
Austin, TX
If you don’t have the ability to rosebud torch, weld, grind, etc, it may be more cost effective to buy one of the prefabbed aftermarket housings cut to your length. It’s a lot of work to properly shorten a junkyard D44–from locating, cleaning, grinding, cutting, aligning, fixturing, welding, and cleaning. Factor in initial cost, labor hours, material, expendables, and special tools, and the expensive aftermarket housing looks pretty attractive.
 
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Rox Crusher

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,773
Welding and grinding is my middle name........but I agree this is above my skill pool so will probably hire a local guy I trust.

Want to gather info so I can make an informed decision on direction.
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,861
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
Getting the pinion out of the dirt is also a huge benefit of the HP, I guess if you can't save the LP housing now would be the time to swap in my book. Might want to look at clearance with your 4R70W also. I'd cut down both sides to EB width so you can reuse your TRO set up.

I cut both sides on mine to reuse my Chromo axles. It also gives you the option of adjusting the pinion angle.

From my research of narrowing my 79’ F-150 housing, with the cast wedges. The relationship between the wedges and the ball joint yokes, were the same as my 76’ EB housing. So my 4* bushings, along with my Duff long arms, gave me the same caster #’s as my EB housing had. 7.75*

Mark
 

martinphoto

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Messages
91
Why not just go with the full width hp44? Lot less work and better road manners from what I've read. Haven't got mine on the road yet to know for sure but was pretty easy to fab everything to install. Finding a FW 9" should be easy and inexpensive also.
 

landshark99

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
1,405
Loc.
Montrose, Colorado
If you source a used full width high pinon axle and cut/turn it you might as well just swap to another EB axle. as mentioned you wont see much advantage using the HP over the LP especially since you already have a longer front drive line from the 4r70 and it drives great now.

If you use another EB D44 axle you can buy a new gear and seal axle kit and swap everything over directly and be driving in a couple days.

You haven't killed any stock axles have you? I would go with some chromoly axles before the RCV's.

If you are REALLY jonesing to spend money - i have just the venture for you, early bronco related and all ;D
 
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Rox Crusher

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,773
If you source a used full width high pinon axle and cut/turn it you might as well just swap to another EB axle. as mentioned you wont see much advantage using the HP over the LP especially since you already have a longer front drive line from the 4r70 and it drives great now.

If you use another EB D44 axle you can buy a new gear and seal axle kit and swap everything over directly and be driving in a couple days.

You haven't killed any stock axles have you? I would go with some chromoly axles before the RCV's.

If you are REALLY jonesing to spend money - i have just the venture for you, early bronco related and all ;D

I’m picking up what your laying down. I just picked up another EB D44 axle which looks to be in fabulous shape. I found a guy in Loveland that does housing work so I may send it to him to weld the tubes to the center (preventative approach) and just swap stuff over and install chrome-moly axles like peeps are recommending.

Meanwhile, I just checked my pockets and still can’t find any Baja race money.

:)
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Why not just weld the original axle no different than welding the new one. its not like your jumping the thing. if that doesnt make you happy then go whole hog. nickel arc rod is cheep compared to what your planning to do.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,497
I have a HP axle build thread in here somewhere. I used a 76 150 axle. Bought it for cheap and got the knuckles with it. I did shorten both tubes. took the outer C's off, took the wedges off. Mocked up the axle under the truck, rotated the housing up to get the correct pinion angle. Tacked the wedges in place. Then put the outer C's back on. located them at 7* and tacked them in place. Built a raised track bar mount on the axle. Took it all back out. Welded it all up. Yes your carrier will work. yes the stock EB axles will work but I got some better ones. Put it all back together and it works great. It's a must do in my opinion.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,497
if you source a used full width high pinon axle and cut/turn it you might as well just swap to another eb axle. As mentioned you wont see much advantage using the hp over the lp especially since you already have a longer front drive line from the 4r70 and it drives great now.

If you use another eb d44 axle you can buy a new gear and seal axle kit and swap everything over directly and be driving in a couple days.

You haven't killed any stock axles have you? I would go with some chromoly axles before the rcv's.

If you are really jonesing to spend money - i have just the venture for you, early bronco related and all ;d

dont you sell that bronco.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,497
Search, Making a high pinion 44. That is the title of my axle build thread.
 

jamesroney

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,914
Loc.
Fremont, CA
My current axle is leaking at diff housing / axle tube joints so I’m looking into building an EB width High Pinion Dana 44 for my rig.

What is best donor to look for ?

If I do this should I also go full tilt boogie and get RCV axles ?

Will my existing ARB locker work ? Obviously have to get a set of reverse cut gears.

As you can see in my signature - current set up is 77 with 4.5” WH suspension and recently added Duff long arms. Already using knuckles from 78 - 79 Bronco and TRO linkage with axle riser bracket.

The other option is to transfer all my stuff over to a different EB Dana 44 housing.

Rig drives very nice with current set up but wondering if I can improve it through this process.

All input appreciated.

Wow. 16 posts, and no answer to your question. Here's my OPINION...

Best Donor HP housing?

1. 76-77 F150 with welded wedges. You get free disc brakes and knuckles.
2. 71-75 F150 with welded wedges. These are drum knuckles.
3. 78-79 F250 with leaf springs. You can add wedges to these tubes.
.
.
.
4. 78-79 F150 with cast wedges. Don't. Just Don't.

All Dana 44 axles in an Early Bronco need the inner C's cut and turned. ALL of them. (...Even the stock one.) Factory Caster was 4 degrees, and pinion inclination is 7. You need 7 degrees of Caster, and as you lift your truck, you need more pinion inclination. 3.5 inches of lift needs about 12 degrees of pinion inclination. You want the pinion and driveshaft to be perfectly aligned, and co-linear. Anything else is bad. How bad depends on you. If you never use your 4x4, then bad u-joint angles are fine. But if you use your 4x4 on the highway, or off road...the correct driveshaft misalignment angle is 0.

RCV axle shafts are expensive and use exotic materials to achieve strength. They are stronger than the single Cardan u-joint. If you want to ensure that your locking hubs and D44 ring and pinion is the failure point...RCV is the way to go. For the price of a set of RCV's...you could have narrowed a 60.

Will your ARB work? Nobody can answer that question, because you didn't say which ARB you have. I've seen too many shops put the wrong carrier in the D44 and "fix" it with thick and thin gears. But, if you have an RD116 (30 spline D44 3.92+) it will work in your HP housing with the native D44 4.09 gear set.

Why would you want another low pinion housing? Nothing special about the Bronco D44 housing, except it came from the factory with the wrong caster.
So you want to cut and turn it. With a 4.5 inch lift, the HP housing improves the driveshaft angle, and your front driveshaft needs all the help it can get.

Your rig does not drive "nice." It either drives with a compromised front u-joint angle, or it has inadequate caster..and wanders. When Ford introduced the D44 in 1971, they had to pick a caster angle that was compatible with the manual steering. So they picked 3 degrees. In 1974, when power steering became available, they had to compromise. So they stayed at 3 degrees. By the time the 76-77 came around...they never fixed it. They probably thought it wasn't broken...

Get a 76-77 HP housing, cut off the wedges, cut and turn the inner C's to 7 degrees positive caster with the pinion pointed at the transfer case. Install 0 degree bushings and weld on the wedges. Go drive on the freeway at 70 MPH with the hubs locked. Go drive on the street and make a sharp corner. Let go of the wheel and watch your Bronco aim itself straight. It will drive just like a 97-06 Jeep Wrangler.

Gotta go...
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,859
Full width 76 HP Dana 44 here... We did have to replace the inner C on one side but that's all.
 

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jim3326

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,781
Loc.
Appleturkey
My current axle is leaking at diff housing / axle tube joints so I’m looking into building an EB width High Pinion Dana 44 for my rig.

What is best donor to look for ?

If I do this should I also go full tilt boogie and get RCV axles ?

Will my existing ARB locker work ? Obviously have to get a set of reverse cut gears.

As you can see in my signature - current set up is 77 with 4.5” WH suspension and recently added Duff long arms. Already using knuckles from 78 - 79 Bronco and TRO linkage with axle riser bracket.

The other option is to transfer all my stuff over to a different EB Dana 44 housing.

Rig drives very nice with current set up but wondering if I can improve it through this process.

All input appreciated.


Since you're relatively close, I happen to have a HP housing already cut and welded I'd let go cheap if you're into a little road trip. I'll have to dig it out to see what tubes it has. Haven't looked at it in years.
 
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Rox Crusher

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,773
Since you're relatively close, I happen to have a HP housing already cut and welded I'd let go cheap if you're into a little road trip. I'll have to dig it out to see what tubes it has. Haven't looked at it in years.

Interested. I will message you
 
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