EFI Mustang/Explorer 5.0 Swap

[drtrydr2000]

We'll let me start off with a small introduction. I am brand new to this forum and I am currently rebuilding a 73 Ranger U15 that has been in my family since new and was my first vehicle (even have the original contract and window sticker from 73'. Anyway I have sitting in my garage a 1991 Mustang HO engine with harness, MAF, and A9L comp. Sitting in my back field I have a 2000 Explorer 5.0 4r70w complete vehicle I traded a cheap guitar for. ;D Anyway I've read and read and read post after post and do know the info is out there but I just really need some guidance as to where to go. My head is spinning and to be honest hope some info will come to me instead..lol.

I do want to run the explorer 5.0 with the EEC-IV setup from the mustang ( something in my mind about SUV to SUV) and I do know I have the GT40P heads but....what about sensors, throttle body, EGR, emissions and swapping all of this over. I do have everything from both. I do plan on running the return fuel rail as well with dual tanks but that brings more questions...what about pumps...in tank for main, frame mount for aux or LP and HP pump after tank switching T?

I know it will come to preference but need to know what is NEEDED to get that EX 5.0 to run on OBD1 dis and stuff. I'm not looking to build an HP monster basically an updated safer (disk brakes, FI, high rest seats, 3point belts..ETC.) daily driver for the family and possibly my son later down the road.

I know I have more questions but don't want to drag the first post ever out. PLEASE HELP....

 

[Toddml]

I just did the same swap, I used the explorer long block, (block, heads, serpentine set up). As for the mustang parts I used all the sensors, ECT, ACT, lower intake, upper intake, computer, distributor, throttle body and MAF. From what I have read you can use the explorer lower and upper intake, throttle body, MAF sensor. I used the RJM technology harness, which had the egr delete. Since I used the mustang intake I would have used the mustang EGR.

I get the spinning head thing. I researched this for quite a while as well. Started the search to make the swap on my existing motor, that is why I used all of the mustang upper parts and sensors.

Welcome and hope this helps.

 

[Toddml]

I just did the same swap, I used the explorer long block, (block, heads, serpentine set up). As for the mustang parts I used all the sensors, ECT, ACT, lower intake, upper intake, computer, distributor, throttle body and MAF. From what I have read you can use the explorer lower and upper intake, throttle body, MAF sensor. I used the RJM technology harness, which had the egr delete. Since I used the mustang intake I would have used the mustang EGR.

I get the spinning head thing. I researched this for quite a while as well. Started the search to make the swap on my existing motor, that is why I used all of the mustang upper parts and sensors.

Welcome and hope this helps.

As for the tanks, plumb the return to you main tank, if you retain the stock main tank you will need a LP fuel pump at the tank and a HP fuel pump near the engine. Some have run just the HP pump but the heat over time will kill that. I swapped tanks to the 23 gal. tank and in tank pump. Use the AUX as storage and use a small pump to transfer fuel from it to the main tank. Much easier to plumb. The oldfuelinjection write up covers this swap well. The GT40P heads create a little issue with exhaust manifolds but most have been able to over come that with headers that fit. Not sure who has those.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Lots of options for you. It's probably cheaper for you to use the mustang computer/harness. Use the mustang sensors, some explorer sensors are different. Use the explorer injectors (only if orange), throttle body, intake and serp system. Mustang fuel rail has connectors at front, explorer at rear. Mustang coolant tubes has a place for the ECT sensor. EGR is optional with the mustang intake, explorer intake won't be plumbed for it.

I have both tanks fully plumbed for EFI. It's a nightmare of hoses and pumps. I don't recommend it but it's nice to be able to drive 400 miles without stopping for gas. If you really want to do it and make it work right get yourself one external HP pump (Airtex E2000), two external LP pumps (recommend Carter P4070), a 6 port valve from O'Reilly. Mount the LP pumps close to the tanks. Run the outputs through the 6 port valve then to the HP pump. Might have to get creative on making return ports to the tanks. I added a return tube to the stock aux sender. My 23 gal main tank had a drain I used for the return.

 

[drtrydr2000]

I just did the same swap, I used the explorer long block, (block, heads, serpentine set up). As for the mustang parts I used all the sensors, ECT, ACT, lower intake, upper intake, computer, distributor, throttle body and MAF. From what I have read you can use the explorer lower and upper intake, throttle body, MAF sensor. I used the RJM technology harness, which had the egr delete. Since I used the mustang intake I would have used the mustang EGR.

I get the spinning head thing. I researched this for quite a while as well. Started the search to make the swap on my existing motor, that is why I used all of the mustang upper parts and sensors.

Welcome and hope this helps.

It does thank you. I was curious if you could use the mustang intake with the gt heads.

As for the tanks, plumb the return to you main tank, if you retain the stock main tank you will need a LP fuel pump at the tank and a HP fuel pump near the engine. Some have run just the HP pump but the heat over time will kill that. I swapped tanks to the 23 gal. tank and in tank pump. Use the AUX as storage and use a small pump to transfer fuel from it to the main tank. Much easier to plumb. The oldfuelinjection write up covers this swap well. The GT40P heads create a little issue with exhaust manifolds but most have been able to over come that with headers that fit. Not sure who has those.

I might go the transfer route. Its sad that the only reason I want dual tanks is for the stock dual fuel caps. I also thought about removing my aux tank and putting an air tank there with a air valve behind the gas cap. You. Dont need an accumulator with an in tank do you?

Lots of options for you. It's probably cheaper for you to use the mustang computer/harness. Use the mustang sensors, some explorer sensors are different. Use the explorer injectors (only if orange), throttle body, intake and serp system. Mustang fuel rail has connectors at front, explorer at rear. Mustang coolant tubes has a place for the ECT sensor. EGR is optional with the mustang intake, explorer intake won't be plumbed for it.

I have both tanks fully plumbed for EFI. It's a nightmare of hoses and pumps. I don't recommend it but it's nice to be able to drive 400 miles without stopping for gas. If you really want to do it and make it work right get yourself one external HP pump (Airtex E2000), two external LP pumps (recommend Carter P4070), a 6 port valve from O'Reilly. Mount the LP pumps close to the tanks. Run the outputs through the 6 port valve then to the HP pump. Might have to get creative on making return ports to the tanks. I added a return tube to the stock aux sender. My 23 gal main tank had a drain I used for the return.

Will the egr spacer and throttle body from the mustang work on the explorer? If not how do I get around that problem.

Thanks for the replies guys. This is really easing my mind. Its cool to have options but too many is a problem. Eventually I may go EFI guy route and go OBD2 but that will be YEARS from now.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Will the egr spacer and throttle body from the mustang work on the explorer? If not how do I get around that problem.

Mustang throttle body will work but the explorer one is bigger and I think easier to mod to the BCB cable setup. 2000 explorer will have external EGR so no passage in the intake manifold for EGR. That's good if you don't want to use EGR. If you do want it either use the mustang intake or get an early explorer intake.

 

[Toddml]

It does thank you. I was curious if you could use the mustang intake with the gt heads.



I might go the transfer route. Its sad that the only reason I want dual tanks is for the stock dual fuel caps. I also thought about removing my aux tank and putting an air tank there with a air valve behind the gas cap. You. Dont need an accumulator with an in tank do you?


Will the egr spacer and throttle body from the mustang work on the explorer? If not how do I get around that problem.

Thanks for the replies guys. This is really easing my mind. Its cool to have options but too many is a problem. Eventually I may go EFI guy route and go OBD2 but that will be YEARS from now.

In tank HP pump does not require an accumulator. That is used with the LP pump at the tank and the HP pump near the engine. Some have got away without using it, however heat will be the culprit if you start to have problems. Overall ease of install and maintenance is the in tank pump. Dual pump is cheaper but not by much once you factor all the plumbing time etc.

 

[drtrydr2000]

Mustang throttle body will work but the explorer one is bigger and I think easier to mod to the BCB cable setup. 2000 explorer will have external EGR so no passage in the intake manifold for EGR. That's good if you don't want to use EGR. If you do want it either use the mustang intake or get an early explorer intake.

So I can use the bc bracket. That was my concern with using the ex throttlebody. I've read many threads that people made something work but no definitive answer if you could use the bracket and cable or not. Thanks. As far as the computer goes will it freak out with no egr? I don't really care if its on there or not personally.

In tank HP pump does not require an accumulator. That is used with the LP pump at the tank and the HP pump near the engine. Some have got away without using it, however heat will be the culprit if you start to have problems. Overall ease of install and maintenance is the in tank pump. Dual pump is cheaper but not by much once you factor all the plumbing time etc.

Looks like I'm going in tank.



Thanks for the help and taking the time to explain it. It makes a little more since now. Going explorer base and mustang electrical with in tank pump and 96 ex return fuel rail

 

[Viperwolf1]

So I can use the bc bracket. That was my concern with using the ex throttlebody. I've read many threads that people made something work but no definitive answer if you could use the bracket and cable or not. Thanks. As far as the computer goes will it freak out with no egr? I don't really care if its on there or not personally.

I've done 4 or 5 explorer throttle bodies with the BC cable kit. It works. I even made the cable progressive. http://www.alpineclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=168

The computer won't freak out without EGR. You will get codes and set the CEL though. You can add some resistors to the harness to prevent that.

I've known more in-tank pump setups that had problems than ones that didn't.

 

[KyleQ]

My thread shows you a lot of the steps needed to make this work. Match the sensors to the engine and efi you are using. You can use different throttle bodies - good luck. My EFI is running tip top with the factory tank and 80's F150 pump mounted close to the tank.

 

[Ourobos]

I am doing something similar.. All mustang parts on a 351w, with a 1991 Mustang harness and ECU.. I had EFI Guy repin my harness.. I'm running the Baumann controller for the 4r70w.. I'm not anything new to EFI conversions, I've probably done 25 or so.. BUT in retrospect, it would have been easier AND cheaper to used the Explorer harness and ECU.. It has the transmission controller built in is one main reason, and the EEC-V is a little smarter than the EEC-IV from the Mustang..

 

[KyleQ]

Be careful with the 4R - they do NOT like going into OD under WOT. DO nto run too much line pressure either-

I've killed three of them in my pickup, but I still love the transmission.

 

[drtrydr2000]

I've done 4 or 5 explorer throttle bodies with the BC cable kit. It works. I even made the cable progressive. http://www.alpineclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=168

The computer won't freak out without EGR. You will get codes and set the CEL though. You can add some resistors to the harness to prevent that.

I've known more in-tank pump setups that had problems than ones that didn't.

Thanks for the link. I'll take that route with mine. Is the Kick down setup all there as well and will it work for the C4 for now.

I am doing something similar.. All mustang parts on a 351w, with a 1991 Mustang harness and ECU.. I had EFI Guy repin my harness.. I'm running the Baumann controller for the 4r70w.. I'm not anything new to EFI conversions, I've probably done 25 or so.. BUT in retrospect, it would have been easier AND cheaper to used the Explorer harness and ECU.. It has the transmission controller built in is one main reason, and the EEC-V is a little smarter than the EEC-IV from the Mustang..

I was going to go for the reflash from efi guy but it worried me a little having a one off tune. Also I don't have the cash to do the 4r70w/d20 thing right now for the crossmember, adaptor and all that. Going this route allows me to run stock trans and transfer until I save up for a swap later. It's cool to have the stuff to set aside for later possibilities. I see EEC-V becoming like EEC-IV is now and I'll be ready.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Thanks for the link. I'll take that route with mine. Is the Kick down setup all there as well and will it work for the C4 for now.

Yes. All but one of the ones I've done were with a C4 kickdown. The other was a 4R70W. If you slot the lever like on Rox Crusher's throttle it makes adjustment easy.

If you plan to upgrade to a 4R70W in the future don't forget about regearing the axles for it. That's a big part of the costs.

 

[Rox Crusher]

If you plan to upgrade to a 4R70W in the future don't forget about regearing the axles for it. That's a big part of the costs.

Oh one of wise tongue speaks the truth

 

[drtrydr2000]

Ah....good point there. I had planned on 4:11 due to the 33's.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Ah....good point there. I had planned on 4:11 due to the 33's.

That works well with 1:1 drive transmission like a C4. With a 4R70W you'll want something in the 4.88 range with a 302/33's.

 

[drtrydr2000]

That works well with 1:1 drive transmission like a C4. With a 4R70W you'll want something in the 4.88 range with a 302/33's.

Just read an archived post you had discussed this in before. I'd like to only buy gears once. Don't know how familiar you are with the western slope but I'm from montrose. We don't go very fast around here except going to Grand Junction from time to time. Do climb some good hills and passes though. Would 4:88 be too much for the 5.0, C4, D20?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Just read an archived post you had discussed this in before. I'd like to only buy gears once. Don't know how familiar you are with the western slope but I'm from montrose. We don't go very fast around here except going to Grand Junction from time to time. Do climb some good hills and passes though. Would 4:88 be too much for the 5.0, C4, D20?

Probably feel nice in the hills. Speed at 3,000 rpm will be 60mph with 4.88 vs 70mph with 4.10. Other than limiting speed I don't see any problems.