Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 35,145
Remember that the quality of the EFI install is only as good as the weakest link.
An EFI install is only as good as the weakest butt connector someone used hidden away under the dash..Remember that the quality of the EFI install is only as good as the weakest link.
Ditto, and efi is electronic sensitive, voltage matters, a carb will run as long as there is spark. EFI means great grounds, good wiring 60 plus amp alternator, electronic ignition. tank, pump, etcAn EFI install is only as good as the weakest butt connector someone used hidden away under the dash..
Jets aren't the problem but I'm also in BFE. Not many options for a carb shop. That's the bigger problem. As simple as a carb is, not a ton of people want to fool with them around here. If I could just run it somewhere, I would but that's not really an option. I'll pay whatever I need to pay to get the best setup. I've actually got someone that can set up the EFI.So I take it your carb is not properly setup, jets incorrect? This is why I would let a competent carb shop run the carb on an engine of similar size and set all the hard stuff.
Aftermarket EFI, whats your budget? Holley sniper 2 looks to be about $2,000.
I am still of the opinion that Ford SEFI is the most reliable. I used LPFP and HPFP, Had EFI guy go through the ECM, New EFI harness and time. I am very pleased and have been for the last 12 years. I have a great Holley Truck avenger carb that had about 10k miles on it when I converted my buddy's truck to EFI. The carb was great but he struggles with "how to start a carb operated vehicle.Jets aren't the problem but I'm also in BFE. Not many options for a carb shop. That's the bigger problem. As simple as a carb is, not a ton of people want to fool with them around here. If I could just run it somewhere, I would but that's not really an option. I'll pay whatever I need to pay to get the best setup. I've actually got someone that can set up the EFI.
IMO if you’re going to stick with a carb change ignition over to a Ford Duraspark unit. I have run them and Holley 4160 carb for years very reliably. I also have run a Mallory Opto spark conversion for over 30 years….not one problem . Points are a nightmare and the only thing worse than points are dual point distributors IMO. A lot of “carb” problems are ignition related. Holley just need clean fuel and the right float adjustment. They can kind of suck of camber or bouncing around IMO, but flat they are very good. For EFI I am running Fox body Mustang Auto computer setup on two trucks… both are 5.0 with 19# injectors and factory MAF… never an issue….idle is superb. Building a 408 Stroker for a 66 F-100 and went with ProM EFI because is closest to a factory setup that I can see but they are very expensive. The Sniper II looks temping for it simplicity and wide band O2 sensor hide a lot of sins.I am still of the opinion that Ford SEFI is the most reliable. I used LPFP and HPFP, Had EFI guy go through the ECM, New EFI harness and time. I am very pleased and have been for the last 12 years. I have a great Holley Truck avenger carb that had about 10k miles on it when I converted my buddy's truck to EFI. The carb was great but he struggles with "how to start a carb operated vehicle.
The only aftermarket efi I would consider is the pro-flo. The only problem I jad withy Ford Mustang efi was the Mass-pro "that totally blows" MAF rip off. Other than that it was/is outstanding.As long as this topic has come up again I thought I would throw my two cents in. I've done both Mustang and Explorer EFI and I have to throw my vote behind Edelbrock proflo 4.
It is the only EFI system that I ever installed that started and hit on all eight the very first time I tried to start it. A small amount of tuning later and it was not just running acceptably, but really well.
I initially opted for this system over the alternatives for two reasons: It is SEFI and the computer is remote mountable so you can get it away from heat and other electronic interference.
-JB
Then the hands-down winner will always be Ford. Find a donor vehicle to take everything out of, and drop in as much as you can. Browse the albums in this registry.100% reliability is the biggest. ... I prefer one that I can set up myself.
It doesn't have to be. Common modern hard nylon fuel line (don't use irrigation or pneumatic tubing) is affordable & reliable, even if you don't buy quick-connect fittings, which are also common & affordable.I know it's expensive, especially with the tank, lines etc needed.
Frank had virtually zero issues daily-driving the '75 I built for him with '88 F150 5.0L EFI, AOD, A/C, cruise, PW/PL... And this thread was resurrected by a guy who is sick of fighting all the carb issues, which are FAR more-common & -pervasive than EFI issues....some go back to carbs, those that dont fight the efi issues. ... Buy a good rebuilt and you will have far fewer issues than efi.
So you're saying you'd drive a carb vehicle with crappy wiring, low voltage, poor grounding, low-output alternator, points ignition... That's certainly going to be a more-troublesome vehicle than one with good EFI....efi is electronic sensitive, voltage matters... EFI means great grounds, good wiring 60 plus amp alternator, electronic ignition... etc
Then you need to compare your "good rebuilt" carb to a PROPERLY-installed EFI system; not to a garbage EFI swap.You need to buy a fully rebuilt carb from a reputable shop. ... Buy a good rebuilt...
False argument sorry. I drive modern EFI because, it's modern, new, under warranty, replaceable,, etc.What's funny to me about the anti-EFI group is the fact most if not all are driving other newer vehicles with EFI and never give it a second thought![]()
Steve, dont put words in my mouth please, come on, you have read enough on my inputs, I am a fan of EFI, we all are, if done right.Then the hands-down winner will always be Ford. Find a donor vehicle to take everything out of, and drop in as much as you can. Browse the albums in this registry.
(click this text)
![]()
It doesn't have to be. Common modern hard nylon fuel line (don't use irrigation or pneumatic tubing) is affordable & reliable, even if you don't buy quick-connect fittings, which are also common & affordable.
Frank had virtually zero issues daily-driving the '75 I built for him with '88 F150 5.0L EFI, AOD, A/C, cruise, PW/PL... And this thread was resurrected by a guy who is sick of fighting all the carb issues, which are FAR more-common & -pervasive than EFI issues.
So you're saying you'd drive a carb vehicle with crappy wiring, low voltage, poor grounding, low-output alternator, points ignition... That's certainly going to be a more-troublesome vehicle than one with good EFI.
Then you need to compare your "good rebuilt" carb to a PROPERLY-installed EFI system; not to a garbage EFI swap.
I wasn't going to post on this thread, because you have basically said exactly what I would have said.Knock on wood...my Ford EFI has been rock solid since install. I had one issue, I swapped to a cam my ECM couldn't adjust for at idle. I added an adjustable idle air bypass (a ford part ) and it's been great since. I even run the stock fuel tank. It's SN95 off the 94/95 Mustang. Did the harness myself.
Always starts hot or cold and always runs like a scalded ape.
Earlier in this thread I suggested FiTech.......Since then I've moved to the Sniper camp and plan is still to install EFI on my 390 FE Mustang. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...per_4-barrel_systems/sniper_efi/parts/550-872 Reason to go T-body are not having to source parts. Plus Holley makes a 2bbl version which should drop in place of the old carb. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...on/sniper_efi/sniper_1-_and_2-barrel_systems/
The key IMO to EFI is a strong charging system which the stock Bronco does not have. EFI need amps and volts to run properly. Bad grounds and low voltage can have you chasing your tail and cause much frustration. Upgrade your charging system and ground the hell out of everything. A big battery helps too.....big as in lots of amps.....
F
Tim
Not going to re-type to rebutt the argument here. Steve83 pretty well covered why you are wrong...False argument sorry. I drive modern EFI because, it's modern, new, under warranty, replaceable,, etc.
If my 73 had factory EFI, it would still have factory efi.
I was not a fan of explorer efi swap because every one of 10-12 explorers I looked at, every efi wire harness was brittle cracked broken. Admittedly, all in a pick and pull in Phoenix living life at 120 degrees for decades.
As seen by the recent sniper fiasco, I again decided NOT to go efi. Maybe thats fixed, lets get some miles out of those who bought the sniper 2 before deciding.
Going proflow and such, I can handle it, the tuning, but the OP seemed unsure, hence my comments.
Adding EFI is a whole other ball of wax. You need someone who is skilled in EFI, tuner, etc. Buying a carb preset and run on a like motor, is by definition plug and play. EFI is not, alternator upgrade, wiring, fuel pump, tank, fuel line, etc. Thats assuming you buy a self tune sniper variant, which many here have found are not self tuning.