EFI Recommendation

[Broncobowsher]

Remember that the quality of the EFI install is only as good as the weakest link.

 

[pcf_mark]

Remember that the quality of the EFI install is only as good as the weakest link.

An EFI install is only as good as the weakest butt connector someone used hidden away under the dash..

 

[73azbronco]

You need to buy a fully rebuilt carb from a reputable shop. You will find one truism on this site, many have gone EFI, some are great, some go back to carbs, those that dont fight the efi issues. I have had a quadrajet for 5 years, no issues. Buy a good rebuilt and you will have far fewer issues than efi.

Full disclosure, I will probably go efi, but I am a mechanic, and I am willing to drop $2,000 to make it right.

 

[73azbronco]

An EFI install is only as good as the weakest butt connector someone used hidden away under the dash..

Ditto, and efi is electronic sensitive, voltage matters, a carb will run as long as there is spark. EFI means great grounds, good wiring 60 plus amp alternator, electronic ignition. tank, pump, etc

 

[BigOrsnge]

I rebuilt this Holley carb last month after buying it new first of the year. It's been cleaned up and fixed up and it's just one problem after another. I'm going to pull the fuel line and see if there's trash but I'm running a good filter so shouldn't be. Non-ethanol fuel is all I've run as well.
If you're installing an aftermarket fuel injection system, which is better? I can handle the install.

 

[73azbronco]

So I take it your carb is not properly setup, jets incorrect? This is why I would let a competent carb shop run the carb on an engine of similar size and set all the hard stuff.

Aftermarket EFI, whats your budget? Holley sniper 2 looks to be about $2,000.

 

[BigOrsnge]

So I take it your carb is not properly setup, jets incorrect? This is why I would let a competent carb shop run the carb on an engine of similar size and set all the hard stuff.

Aftermarket EFI, whats your budget? Holley sniper 2 looks to be about $2,000.

Jets aren't the problem but I'm also in BFE. Not many options for a carb shop. That's the bigger problem. As simple as a carb is, not a ton of people want to fool with them around here. If I could just run it somewhere, I would but that's not really an option. I'll pay whatever I need to pay to get the best setup. I've actually got someone that can set up the EFI.

 

[bronco italiano]

Jets aren't the problem but I'm also in BFE. Not many options for a carb shop. That's the bigger problem. As simple as a carb is, not a ton of people want to fool with them around here. If I could just run it somewhere, I would but that's not really an option. I'll pay whatever I need to pay to get the best setup. I've actually got someone that can set up the EFI.

I am still of the opinion that Ford SEFI is the most reliable. I used LPFP and HPFP, Had EFI guy go through the ECM, New EFI harness and time. I am very pleased and have been for the last 12 years. I have a great Holley Truck avenger carb that had about 10k miles on it when I converted my buddy's truck to EFI. The carb was great but he struggles with "how to start a carb operated vehicle.

 

[OB71Sport]

I am still of the opinion that Ford SEFI is the most reliable. I used LPFP and HPFP, Had EFI guy go through the ECM, New EFI harness and time. I am very pleased and have been for the last 12 years. I have a great Holley Truck avenger carb that had about 10k miles on it when I converted my buddy's truck to EFI. The carb was great but he struggles with "how to start a carb operated vehicle.

IMO if you’re going to stick with a carb change ignition over to a Ford Duraspark unit. I have run them and Holley 4160 carb for years very reliably. I also have run a Mallory Opto spark conversion for over 30 years….not one problem . Points are a nightmare and the only thing worse than points are dual point distributors IMO. A lot of “carb” problems are ignition related. Holley just need clean fuel and the right float adjustment. They can kind of suck of camber or bouncing around IMO, but flat they are very good. For EFI I am running Fox body Mustang Auto computer setup on two trucks… both are 5.0 with 19# injectors and factory MAF… never an issue….idle is superb. Building a 408 Stroker for a 66 F-100 and went with ProM EFI because is closest to a factory setup that I can see but they are very expensive. The Sniper II looks temping for it simplicity and wide band O2 sensor hide a lot of sins.

 

[bigmuddy]

What's funny to me about the anti-EFI group is the fact most if not all are driving other newer vehicles with EFI and never give it a second thought

 

[Johnnyb]

As long as this topic has come up again I thought I would throw my two cents in. I've done both Mustang and Explorer EFI and I have to throw my vote behind Edelbrock proflo 4.
It is the only EFI system that I ever installed that started and hit on all eight the very first time I tried to start it. A small amount of tuning later and it was not just running acceptably, but really well.
I initially opted for this system over the alternatives for two reasons: It is SEFI and the computer is remote mountable so you can get it away from heat and other electronic interference.

-JB

 

[bronco italiano]

As long as this topic has come up again I thought I would throw my two cents in. I've done both Mustang and Explorer EFI and I have to throw my vote behind Edelbrock proflo 4.
It is the only EFI system that I ever installed that started and hit on all eight the very first time I tried to start it. A small amount of tuning later and it was not just running acceptably, but really well.
I initially opted for this system over the alternatives for two reasons: It is SEFI and the computer is remote mountable so you can get it away from heat and other electronic interference.

-JB

The only aftermarket efi I would consider is the pro-flo. The only problem I jad withy Ford Mustang efi was the Mass-pro "that totally blows" MAF rip off. Other than that it was/is outstanding.

 

[Steve83]

100% reliability is the biggest. ... I prefer one that I can set up myself.

Then the hands-down winner will always be Ford. Find a donor vehicle to take everything out of, and drop in as much as you can. Browse the albums in this registry.

(click this text)

I know it's expensive, especially with the tank, lines etc needed.

It doesn't have to be. Common modern hard nylon fuel line (don't use irrigation or pneumatic tubing) is affordable & reliable, even if you don't buy quick-connect fittings, which are also common & affordable.

...some go back to carbs, those that dont fight the efi issues. ... Buy a good rebuilt and you will have far fewer issues than efi.

Frank had virtually zero issues daily-driving the '75 I built for him with '88 F150 5.0L EFI, AOD, A/C, cruise, PW/PL... And this thread was resurrected by a guy who is sick of fighting all the carb issues, which are FAR more-common & -pervasive than EFI issues.

...efi is electronic sensitive, voltage matters... EFI means great grounds, good wiring 60 plus amp alternator, electronic ignition... etc

So you're saying you'd drive a carb vehicle with crappy wiring, low voltage, poor grounding, low-output alternator, points ignition... That's certainly going to be a more-troublesome vehicle than one with good EFI.

You need to buy a fully rebuilt carb from a reputable shop. ... Buy a good rebuilt...

Then you need to compare your "good rebuilt" carb to a PROPERLY-installed EFI system; not to a garbage EFI swap.

 

[Timmy390]

Knock on wood...my Ford EFI has been rock solid since install. I had one issue, I swapped to a cam my ECM couldn't adjust for at idle. I added an adjustable idle air bypass (a ford part ) and it's been great since. I even run the stock fuel tank. It's SN95 off the 94/95 Mustang. Did the harness myself.

Always starts hot or cold and always runs like a scalded ape.

Earlier in this thread I suggested FiTech.......Since then I've moved to the Sniper camp and plan is still to install EFI on my 390 FE Mustang. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...per_4-barrel_systems/sniper_efi/parts/550-872 Reason to go T-body are not having to source parts. Plus Holley makes a 2bbl version which should drop in place of the old carb. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...on/sniper_efi/sniper_1-_and_2-barrel_systems/

The key IMO to EFI is a strong charging system which the stock Bronco does not have. EFI need amps and volts to run properly. Bad grounds and low voltage can have you chasing your tail and cause much frustration. Upgrade your charging system and ground the hell out of everything. A big battery helps too.....big as in lots of amps.....


Tim

 

[73azbronco]

What's funny to me about the anti-EFI group is the fact most if not all are driving other newer vehicles with EFI and never give it a second thought

False argument sorry. I drive modern EFI because, it's modern, new, under warranty, replaceable,, etc.

If my 73 had factory EFI, it would still have factory efi.

I was not a fan of explorer efi swap because every one of 10-12 explorers I looked at, every efi wire harness was brittle cracked broken. Admittedly, all in a pick and pull in Phoenix living life at 120 degrees for decades.

As seen by the recent sniper fiasco, I again decided NOT to go efi. Maybe thats fixed, lets get some miles out of those who bought the sniper 2 before deciding.

Going proflow and such, I can handle it, the tuning, but the OP seemed unsure, hence my comments.

Adding EFI is a whole other ball of wax. You need someone who is skilled in EFI, tuner, etc. Buying a carb preset and run on a like motor, is by definition plug and play. EFI is not, alternator upgrade, wiring, fuel pump, tank, fuel line, etc. Thats assuming you buy a self tune sniper variant, which many here have found are not self tuning.

 

[73azbronco]

Then the hands-down winner will always be Ford. Find a donor vehicle to take everything out of, and drop in as much as you can. Browse the albums in this registry.

(click this text)


It doesn't have to be. Common modern hard nylon fuel line (don't use irrigation or pneumatic tubing) is affordable & reliable, even if you don't buy quick-connect fittings, which are also common & affordable.

Frank had virtually zero issues daily-driving the '75 I built for him with '88 F150 5.0L EFI, AOD, A/C, cruise, PW/PL... And this thread was resurrected by a guy who is sick of fighting all the carb issues, which are FAR more-common & -pervasive than EFI issues.

So you're saying you'd drive a carb vehicle with crappy wiring, low voltage, poor grounding, low-output alternator, points ignition... That's certainly going to be a more-troublesome vehicle than one with good EFI.

Then you need to compare your "good rebuilt" carb to a PROPERLY-installed EFI system; not to a garbage EFI swap.

Steve, dont put words in my mouth please, come on, you have read enough on my inputs, I am a fan of EFI, we all are, if done right.

But you have an OP, unsure of abilities, stating he needs to have someone install it. Whats that going to cost him in labor $2,000, not counting the $2k sniper?

A carb, is plug and play if you buy it already setup, places will do that. EFI, not a chance.

He wants to drive it, not spend a year chasing gremlins.

You made my point, a carb will run with a crap electric system, and therefore the electric system will need to be replaced to ensure the EFI is solid. Another $1,000.

For the OP, a carb makes the most sense. If he wants efi, and YOU want to help him on the forum, go for it, I will help as well. But he might as well put it up on blocks for months while all this is happening. He will be driving the carb in half a day all by himself. Then, he can start sourcing all the myriad of parts to get efi working.

 

[ssray]

Been following this, so may as well chip in with this link. Looks kind of impressive to me, but not available for Fords yet. A new Haltech offering with self learning capability aimed at the budget end of things. sounds like it comes with your choice of connectors and most everything that is needed to function. Gen 3/4 LS so far, but I wonder if they’ll come with a 5.0l Ford version for the Mustang crowd. $1495 is not bad for this package I think. Doesn’t leave you hanging either if you want to add boost and other add-ones as it has extra inputs and outputs. Can tune from your phone as well!

Haltech News

Hal tech Rebel Hot Rod Mag

 

[jamesroney]

Knock on wood...my Ford EFI has been rock solid since install. I had one issue, I swapped to a cam my ECM couldn't adjust for at idle. I added an adjustable idle air bypass (a ford part ) and it's been great since. I even run the stock fuel tank. It's SN95 off the 94/95 Mustang. Did the harness myself.

Always starts hot or cold and always runs like a scalded ape.

Earlier in this thread I suggested FiTech.......Since then I've moved to the Sniper camp and plan is still to install EFI on my 390 FE Mustang. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...per_4-barrel_systems/sniper_efi/parts/550-872 Reason to go T-body are not having to source parts. Plus Holley makes a 2bbl version which should drop in place of the old carb. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...on/sniper_efi/sniper_1-_and_2-barrel_systems/

The key IMO to EFI is a strong charging system which the stock Bronco does not have. EFI need amps and volts to run properly. Bad grounds and low voltage can have you chasing your tail and cause much frustration. Upgrade your charging system and ground the hell out of everything. A big battery helps too.....big as in lots of amps.....

F
Tim

I wasn't going to post on this thread, because you have basically said exactly what I would have said.

I've done a couple dozen EEC-4 conversions, and there are literally hundreds of thousands of them in service without drama in Fords from 1986-2002. The fine folks at RJM made a very nice stand alone harness, and the A9L ECM has proven to be quite robust, even after 30 years. There are exactly zero aftermarket solutions that are still being supported at Rev. 1. I have purchased nearly every aftermarket solution, and there are few things more frustrating than calling tech support, and learning that they are not interested in your problem. It is worth repeating (over and over) that if the Sniper 1 was good, there wouldn't be a Sniper 2. (you can replace "Sniper" with "pro-jection" or FiTech, or Proflow, or whatever name you want.)

The only other reasonable bolt on EFI solution is the 90's GM TBI, and that has proven to be quite a robust and durable system. Countless GM cars, trucks, and a whole bunch of Jeeps and boats are still running stand-alone TBI solutions. Affordable EFI has sold plenty of conversions, and Howell made a living tailoring TBI to various applications. But as you correctly hinted...all of the systems that endure are based on factory components.

Which brings me to my point. PLEASE do not put a Sniper on your FE. I spent a significant amount of time creating a EEC-4 solution for my 67 GT500. It is based on the Edelbrock Victor 427 single plane intake, with a milled plenum to keep it under the hood. I took a Mustang TFI distributor from a Fox, and machined a custom sleeve to adapt it into the FE. It has a MassFlo progressive Throttle body with Ford connectors. I was torn between adding a mass air meter in the air cleaner, or running a cold air pipe. Depending on your hood, you can decide.

If I were putting EFI on an FE with a 114 LSA cam...I would 100% go Ford SEFI. Maybe ProFlow 4 if you are going to sell within 2 years, or Terminator X if you like spending time on the phone with customer support. I'm sure that I have some prototype components in my storage. If you are interested, let me know.

For the OP, carburetors, Sniper / EZ EFI / FiTech are all objects that should be used in the next Olympics as a combination shot-put / discus event. Meaning that they should all be flung as far as possible from your Bronco.

 

[bigmuddy]

False argument sorry. I drive modern EFI because, it's modern, new, under warranty, replaceable,, etc.

If my 73 had factory EFI, it would still have factory efi.

I was not a fan of explorer efi swap because every one of 10-12 explorers I looked at, every efi wire harness was brittle cracked broken. Admittedly, all in a pick and pull in Phoenix living life at 120 degrees for decades.

As seen by the recent sniper fiasco, I again decided NOT to go efi. Maybe thats fixed, lets get some miles out of those who bought the sniper 2 before deciding.

Going proflow and such, I can handle it, the tuning, but the OP seemed unsure, hence my comments.

Adding EFI is a whole other ball of wax. You need someone who is skilled in EFI, tuner, etc. Buying a carb preset and run on a like motor, is by definition plug and play. EFI is not, alternator upgrade, wiring, fuel pump, tank, fuel line, etc. Thats assuming you buy a self tune sniper variant, which many here have found are not self tuning.

Not going to re-type to rebutt the argument here. Steve83 pretty well covered why you are wrong...

Ultimately, you are right however when speaking to what is likely best for a non-mechanical bronco owner.

 

[73azbronco]

Correct big muddy. Too many folks jump on here asking what efi, and have no mechanical ability. They need the carb.