efi swap troubles

[Ryan]

well i can, but nothing changes if i disconnect the egr system. i unplug the evp solinoid and it reacts the same. everyone says i don't need the egr for it to run right. so i geuss i'm saving my cash for if i figure out what the problem really is.

It's true you don't "need" the EGR, but it must be removed correctly to prevent problems.
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9

 

[EB Passed down]

i put the distibuter back in the way it came out. at first i had it in to where the distributer was turned too far one way when in time. i assumed i had it a tooth off so i adjusted it so the distributer had equal throw either way. when i changed the plug wires i didn't even pay attention to the fact that #1 wasn't on the #1 on the cap. i will fix my 34 this weekend. i have dual 2 1/4 exhaust. i don't think anything fell down the intake during the swap but anythings possible.

 

[73azbronco]

after fixing the 34 fault and checking compression, if it still doesn't run right, my money would be on a vacuum leak. Pull the intake off and inspect it for cracks, check for leaks at all boss fittings, use new gaskets.

TB is good? no problems with that? IAC good, no leaks there?

Dude, good luck, hope it's something easy...

 

[PsYcHoBrOnCo]

I can not wait to start on my EFI, My thread of questions is going to be 50 pages long...........

 

[scotts77]

Some good reading material here.
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,119.0.html

Anyone doing their first EFI swap (like myself) should read the entire thread above. It enlightened me on several points I had previously not read and I've read ALOT.

 

[73azbronco]

excellent article, and based on a quick look, and how you said the dizzy is not really on #1, you need to reset your dizzy, take a look...

 

[EB Passed down]

okay i reset the dizzy but it still isn't right. it might be better but i'm not sure. i could be hoping too much. could any of this be part of the re-learn procedure? i've read that you need to drive for 20 mins. or so under a variate of driving conditions but this thing has only been out twice and only for 3 or 4 miles tops. also i tried a new egr position sensor for my code 34. the sensor said it was good so i know it was just too easy to try it anyway. it didn't make the code go away. i'm starting to feel like a dumb a** trying to do brain surgery.

 

[Ryan]

Simply tossing new parts at it won't fix it. Code 34 means the EGR Position Sensor is telling the computer it's stuck open. Codes don't mean the electrical part is bad, it tells you to diagnosis that system on the engine. The EGR system needs to be fixed or correctly blocked off.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35
or
http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

You are working on a speed density setup. No learning curve. It should fire up first time everytime the same. From the description of your problems, I still think injectors need to be thoroughly soaked. I have pulled three efi motors from junkyards and all of them had restricted and varnished injectors. Replace orings, screens and pinacle caps. At the very least its one less thing in the equation. And you can eliminate any possible airleaks, which I dont think you have from the information posted so far. The injectors you have in that motor should be grey and rated at 14lbs. They dont usually go bad, just need some maintaince. Just hope its something simple. And not a gremlin sneaking around.

 

[EB Passed down]

i've pulled the plenum and checked my connections, new hoses everywhere, elimanated anything not needed. mentioned earlier was soaking the injectors in lacquer thinner, is that right? replacing the screens? i've never taking an injector apart. any advice or info on that. i do have another set of 14lbs. injectors i was going to try but they're from a 200k lincoln. it did run just fine. the guy removed them to go maf and 19lbs.

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

If they are out remove orings and pry the screens from top. The little pinicle caps are usually brittle, then will need replaced. Thow in lacquer thinner and let sit for a couple of hours. If its gets nasty dark brown, you may not be wasting your time. At least you can get one more thing crossed off the list of possibilities.

 

[73azbronco]

Any words? I feel for you man, but you just made my decision to rebuild and stay with a carb till I know it is running a sound decision. Good on you for keeping at it...

When I do mine, I'm throwing the towel in and going all new sensors and injectors, and Dizzy. The old TFI Dizzy I just got is rather shall we say, crap. I'm seeing to many problems from folks using old stuff. Hardware like intakes, TB's fittings, you bet, recycling is fun...

 

[EB Passed down]

i haven't had time to work on it again lately. i had another more pressing project to work on. i did have to pull it out of the garage and i don't know why but it seemed to be running fine. i am not saying it's fixed, cause i didn't do anything else to fix it, but i'm not complaining either.

 

[Skiddy]

Here's a good procedure for cleaning injectors http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=82

 

[fiscus]

Double check all your grounds, and maybe try putting a few extra grounds here and there in the wiring harness, ecm, to the firewall etc. I think the fuel injection system uses some kind of floating ground that can get messed up if there is a difference in voltage at different places.

How confident are you in the wiring job you did? Did you mess with the harness at all?

 

[EB Passed down]

i don't know if confidence entered into the process. i hate wiring and it hates me. i think i did ok. i down loaded lots of info off this site and others. i got a wiring diagrahm for the crown vic and the bronco. it didn't seem as bad as i thought it was going to be. i don't doubt that a few more grounds could help. the originals are propably not up to par.