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electric tank selector valve fuel swithc

boss

Full Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
177
Loc.
Pittsburgh
I have a 75 EB with an auxiliary fuel tank that was added,with a toggle switch to select between tanks. I would like to install the fuel switch that came from the factory used to change the fuel gauge when switching tanks and also connect the tank selector switch so when I change tanks it will change on the fuel gauge as well as the fuel tanks. Has anyone done this and is there any problem doing so. The switch has 5 or 6 connections.
 

Hozr

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Oly, WA
Were they still using the manual selector valves in 75?

Here's a quick sketch of how to wire a relay to switch between tanks with the valve. I'm assuming the valve is a stock ford electric valve that grounds through the body and uses a +12 to switch. If it's a negative switching valve (oddball) you would run the red to constant and the black to the toggle. Uses a standard DPDT auto relay
 

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boss

Full Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
177
Loc.
Pittsburgh
Yes. I have purchased the dash mount toggle switch and I want to control the tank and fuel gauge selection wit the one toggle.
 

Toddpole

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
832
I use one of these. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...837&categoryRedirect=N2000&pt=N2000&ppt=C0025
The stock dash switch should have 6 terminals (DPDT). One side controls the gauge. The other side does not have anything connected to it. Attach power to the empty center terminal and the valve wire to the correct terminal at one end. You will need to determine which port is normally open and which one opens with power.
 

adl3026

Jr. Member
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
103
Loc.
Orlando, Fl
I have a question concerning the same thing. What is the best place to pull the electric to operate the valve? Can I take it off the acc on the ignition switch?
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
I have a question concerning the same thing. What is the best place to pull the electric to operate the valve? Can I take it off the acc on the ignition switch?

Better to use the terminal on the ignition switch that is energized when the ignition is on.
 

Capertrj

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
115
I plan on adding the aux tank back to mine and was curious how the switches work. I was told by WH I need the manual switch under the seat and electronic in the dash. I thought there was a way to direct fuel and change the meter with one switch. Is this possible?

My 1976 is interesting. It only has one fuel door but there is the switch under the seat and old lines from the auxiliary tank. The dash doesn't have a hole in the bottom left and there is no sign the rear quarter has ever been replaced. I am going to add a second door and put a hole in the dash for the switch. Did Ford mock up some Broncos with the plumbing for an aux tank but only finish per the customer?

Either way I ordered everything to add the aux tank back. 13 gallons doesn't get you far.

Sorry for thread jack.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,335
I plan on adding the aux tank back to mine and was curious how the switches work. I was told by WH I need the manual switch under the seat and electronic in the dash. I thought there was a way to direct fuel and change the meter with one switch. Is this possible?

My 1976 is interesting. It only has one fuel door but there is the switch under the seat and old lines from the auxiliary tank. The dash doesn't have a hole in the bottom left and there is no sign the rear quarter has ever been replaced. I am going to add a second door and put a hole in the dash for the switch. Did Ford mock up some Broncos with the plumbing for an aux tank but only finish per the customer?

Either way I ordered everything to add the aux tank back. 13 gallons doesn't get you far.

Sorry for thread jack.

The stock sender switch is a double pole, double throw switch so it can do the job of switching both senders and controlling an electric 3 port valve. No need for a manual valve.

Your '76 has obviously been modified. Only '77 got the fuel doors. All of those got 2 fuel doors even if there was only a main tank installed. When there was only a main tank there was no aux tank fuel lines or valve installed. Dash got the fuel sender switch when there was an aux tank installed. Many Broncos have become mutts over the last 40 years.
 

Capertrj

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
115
The stock sender switch is a double pole, double throw switch so it can do the job of switching both senders and controlling an electric 3 port valve. No need for a manual valve.

Your '76 has obviously been modified. Only '77 got the fuel doors. All of those got 2 fuel doors even if there was only a main tank installed. When there was only a main tank there was no aux tank fuel lines or valve installed. Dash got the fuel sender switch when there was an aux tank installed. Many Broncos have become mutts over the last 40 years.

Sorry I meant fuel caps not doors. So I can place the electric switch from WH where the manual switch is at now under the seat?
 

.94 OR

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Messages
1,754
The stock sender switch is a double pole, double throw switch so it can do the job of switching both senders and controlling an electric 3 port valve. No need for a manual valve.

Your '76 has obviously been modified. Only '77 got the fuel doors. All of those got 2 fuel doors even if there was only a main tank installed. When there was only a main tank there was no aux tank fuel lines or valve installed. Dash got the fuel sender switch when there was an aux tank installed. Many Broncos have become mutts over the last 40 years.

I disagree with the switch being a double throw. It is a single throw as it only has one motion. A double throw switch has a detent or stop in the middle like an On-Off-On configuration.
 

Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,022
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
I disagree with the switch being a double throw. It is a single throw as it only has one motion. A double throw switch has a detent or stop in the middle like an On-Off-On configuration.
That's not what "throw" means in this context. It refers to the number of unique connections that can be made internally, per pole. What you're describing is detents (where the switch is designed to stop moving), and that can happen irrelevant of electrical connections.

The switch IS double-throw.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
On a semi-related thread-jack;

Will the original dash switch control a six port valve?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,056
How do you label an ON-Off-On switch then?

It is an on-off-on switch. By the description it is a double throw. But there is no reference to the number of poles.
Pole is the number of branches. A 3-phase motor uses a 3-pole contactor. Each pole is a separate switch isolated form the other pole(s) with only the mechanical lever connecting them all together. Double pole is very common, I've dealt with a few 3 and 4 pole switches.

Throw is the number of "on" positions the switch has. One or two "throws" is normal. There are a few 3-throw toggle switches (on-on-on) but they are very rare. Never seen one in person. A rotary switch has a "throw" for each detent in the switch.

The "off" in the center position is just that. Off. None of the contacts inside the switch are connected. Since nothing is connected, it isn't considered a "throw".

Most switches are "non-shorting" where a throw disconnects from one contact, passes through an "off" position (that may or may not have a detent to hold it there) before the other contact closes. There are a few rare (you have to really go looking for them) "shorting" switches where the second contact is connected before the first is released. This creates a moment where all 3 terminals (common each of the contacts) are all shorted together.
 
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