Electrical issues continued

[DevilDog]

The guy at the auto parts store gave me the idea to take of the positive cable with the negative still attached to the battery to see if the alternator was indeed working correctly. When I did so, a wire under the dash started burning and kicked off a ton of smoke. However, I could not find that specific wire.

Attached are some pics of some of the crazy wiring I have going on. The red wire in pic one goes through the firewall and is jammed in between the fuses in the glove compartment. The black wire and white wire in Pic 3 are from the back of an aftermarket 3-gauge set (temp,volt and oil pressure) and are connected to nothing. I am guessing at least one should be grounded.

Can I run the red wire into the positive battery cable? Any ideas on what might have started smoking?

 

[DevilDog]

So, how should I test to see if the black or white one should be grounded? Thanks.

 

[Viperwolf1]

So, how should I test to see if the black or white one should be grounded? Thanks.

You should never disconnect the battery with the engine running. It is very likely to cost you an alternator.

Best way to figure out what the white and black wires are is to follow them and see what they connect to.

The red wire looks like it powers your electric choke. It should be fused and connected to switched (key ON only) power. A better choice would be to connect it to the alternator STA terminal.

 

[ransil]

I have nothing positive to add here and no help to you problem.

Never listen to a part guy, if he knew what he was talking about he would be a mechanic.

never use wire nuts on automotive wiring and electrical tape, it will dry out and fall off at some time in the future.

 

[DevilDog]

You should never disconnect the battery with the engine running. It is very likely to cost you an alternator.

Best way to figure out what the white and black wires are is to follow them and see what they connect to.

The red wire looks like it powers your electric choke. It should be fused and connected to switched (key ON only) power. A better choice would be to connect it to the alternator STA terminal.

Hi Viper, I have followed the wires to the back of a Sunpro, 3 gauge cluster, however since I didn't install it it, that doesn't help me. Hopefully I can find an install guide for it online to find out what these wires do.

When you say alternator STA, do you mean attach is to the post where the power wire attaches? Or splice it into the power wire? Thanks again.

 

[DevilDog]

I have nothing positive to add here and no help to you problem.

Never listen to a part guy, if he knew what he was talking about he would be a mechanic.

never use wire nuts on automotive wiring and electrical tape, it will dry out and fall off at some time in the future.

Ransil,

Thanks for the help. I have been using the yellow plastic crimpable connectors. Should I replace those old wire nuts with these as well?

 

[Viperwolf1]

When you say alternator STA, do you mean attach is to the post where the power wire attaches? Or splice it into the power wire? Thanks again.

STA is the stator, not where the charge wire attaches (BAT). The stator only has power when the alternator is working (engine is running).

 

[DevilDog]

STA is the stator, not where the charge wire attaches (BAT). The stator only has power when the alternator is working (engine is running).

Viperwolf,

Thank you, I am following you know. Just need to find a pic referencing the STA so that I can attache the electric choke wire correctly. I appreciate the help.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Viperwolf,

Thank you, I am following you know. Just need to find a pic referencing the STA so that I can attache the electric choke wire correctly. I appreciate the help.

Here you go.

 

[DevilDog]

Viperwolf,

This may be a silly question, but can I run the power wires from the Sunpro gauges to the STA as well? Right now they are set up to be jammed into the fuse box, and I can't imagine this is a good idea. Thanks!

 

[DevilDog]

Or is there another wire that it would be better to splice into? Thanks

 

[70_Steve]

Ransil,

Thanks for the help. I have been using the yellow plastic crimpable connectors. Should I replace those old wire nuts with these as well?

Don't mean to step on Ransil's toes here, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

In my opinion, those crimp connectors are only marginally better that twisting wires together and covering with electrical tape, or using wire nuts. To that point, I just reloomed my taillight harness to eliminate a half a dozen butt splices, most of which were intermittant. Oh, and also had to repair a few wires damaged by those "viper" connectors left over from when someone decided to connect up a trailer.

The best way to splice wires is to solder them together, then cover with heat shrink tubing. I've done that on every connection I've made on the Bronco, or had to redo from the PO. Even when making up Weatherpak connectors, I chose to crimp the connection, then solder. I have not had a failure yet.

 

[DevilDog]

So, I re-grounded the wires for the sunpro gauge, the power lead comes out of the center volt meter, somehow this makes the temp gauge work as well. I started it up, and per the POs set up jammed the power lead into the fuse box. The power wire immediately started melting. Not good I know. Assuming the gauges themselves are wired correctly, i.e. grounded by linking them to a screw at the bottom of the dash. Where should this power wire be spliced into? Clearly it should be one that only works when the key is on, but not sure which wire to cut into? Same goes for the wiring to the little led lights that light the gauges.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Viperwolf,

This may be a silly question, but can I run the power wires from the Sunpro gauges to the STA as well? Right now they are set up to be jammed into the fuse box, and I can't imagine this is a good idea. Thanks!

No. The stator should only be used for the choke. It's not 12VDC.

Carefully remove the gauge cluster and wiring. Place it in front of your tire then drive forward. Get some decent gauges with some instructions.

 

[70_Steve]

Carefully remove the gauge cluster and wiring. Place it in front of your tire then drive forward. Get some decent gauges with some instructions.

Hahaha!!!!;D You always have the best advice!!!!

 

[DevilDog]

No. The stator should only be used for the choke. It's not 12VDC.

Carefully remove the gauge cluster and wiring. Place it in front of your tire then drive forward. Get some decent gauges with some instructions.

Sounds like a good idea, any recommendations on a gauge set? Also, is there any reason I shouldn't take out the original gauge cluster and try to make that work correctly? I assume there was something wrong with it, but I must be fixable based on other threads I have seen. Oh, and I found the directions in the glove compartment, however, the PO didn't seem to follow a single one.

Also, what should I do with the tubing for the for the temp and oil pressure gauges in the mean time? Thank you!

 

[ransil]

Don't mean to step on Ransil's toes here, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

In my opinion, those crimp connectors are only marginally better that twisting wires together and covering with electrical tape, or using wire nuts. To that point, I just reloomed my taillight harness to eliminate a half a dozen butt splices, most of which were intermittant. Oh, and also had to repair a few wires damaged by those "viper" connectors left over from when someone decided to connect up a trailer.

The best way to splice wires is to solder them together, then cover with heat shrink tubing. I've done that on every connection I've made on the Bronco, or had to redo from the PO. Even when making up Weatherpak connectors, I chose to crimp the connection, then solder. I have not had a failure yet.

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no toes stepped on here, you covered it, I would have said the same thing.