Electrical Junction block? And where did you mount it?

[kat]

So, my poor positive battery post is WAY crowded and trying to clean things up a bit. I already have a fuse block mounted on fender well to help. But I have auxiliary lights, winch, etc. all fastened to battery post. What have yall done to clean things up in the wiring department under the hood?? What did you use and where you mounted. I'm electrical challenged. Thanks in advance.

On a side note, I want to relocate my big solenoid block that is mounted on my winch also. So want to buy one thing if possible and be done with it.

 

[904Bronco]

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/47221/Cole-Hersee-880100-Stud-Busbar-/

One example, although this one is Pricey. Run same size (+) Batt cable to one of the posts, put your accessories on the remaining ones.

Every 12v wire(s) feeding something should have a boot on it and be fused.

There are other similar methods, even a block with fuses that feed the accessories... Depends on what you want to spend.

https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1437/Terminal-Blocks/

You can get a single post or power splitters

 

[Oldtimer]

West Marine has great options for electrical distribution.

High Amperage Distribution | West Marine

Shop the best selection of High Amperage Distribution from West Marine and satisfy all your High Amperage Distribution needs.

www.westmarine.com

 

[Jamoaus]

I'm using a blue sea split block.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_Blade_Split_Bus_Fuse_Block

I have one side hot and the other Acc. Mounted inside the glove compartment for easy access


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bmc69]

Another BlueSea product fan here. We wire boats too.

 

[pcf_mark]

I used this one mounted high on the firewall on the driver side. NEver gets wet but it is well sealed. I added EFI, trans controller, radio and I still have half the circuits available.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...TMRKdhzOTttk9z9dbmJxT1UKYJqDuhmBoC4dgQAvD_BwE

 

[ba123]

Looks like some good choices there...

For the Battery Terminal, if you will still have stuff and want to clean that up you could go with a multi terminal adapter. I'm going with one that doesn't have posts, so planning on using one like this:

XS Power Batteries TB-604V1 XS Power Battery Terminal Adapters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - XS Power Battery Terminal Adapters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Battery Terminals at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

But there are also regular ones for post batteries like this:

Moroso 74098 Moroso Multi-Power Battery Terminal Distribution Blocks | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Moroso Multi-Power Battery Terminal Distribution Blocks with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Battery Terminals at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

There are also a whole slew of them on Amazon like this:

 

[cldonley]

I'm a fan of the Waytek Busbar 904 mentioned above. Almost no limit on the load you can apply.

 

[njy229]

I used a Blue Sea Fuse block as a temporary way to expand my fuse block until I eventually rewire everything. The entire thing fit in the glovebox... although it is a bit smooshed.

 

[ba123]

I used a Blue Sea Fuse block as a temporary way to expand my fuse block until I eventually rewire everything. The entire thing fit in the glovebox... although it is a bit smooshed.

Wow, that’s serious! Nice idea for temp while planning a rewire!

Anyone have some good pics of nice clean setups? Might help me as well as Kat. For me, I’m trying to figure out the best way to wire and route everything in order to be the most visually pleasing since I’m starting from scratch. I keep hijacking threads, sorry, but this might help the OP too.

 

[kat]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I do have a Blue Sea fuse block under the hood I'm using for my ACC side of things (electric fuel pump) but don't think I have the one that is split that is ACC on one side and hot on the other like the one posted. I will be looking into it to see if I have that. My under the hood wiring is a nightmare at the time. I'm using a golf cart relay (was suggested to me years ago) that goes hot when I turn my key on. Then I have the wiring for my G4 (I believe that's what its called) alternator. It's a nightmare for someone like me that is electrical challenged.

 

[Steve83]

NOTHING should be attached at the battery posts, except the 2 main 4ga cables. Certainly not those giant, heavy terminals with a dozen setscrews. The posts are already the leakiest points on the battery case - they don't need all that weight & leverage ripping them out, causing even more corrosion on even more wires.

The factory (& best) junction post is the hot side of the starter relay. The stack order of the rings should always be: starter solenoid (if using a later solenoid-type starter), alternator (if the output cable has a ring), B+, main output to dash/ig.sw./fuse block, then any other accessories, and the nut. Each ring should be clean to shiny metal, flat, and coated with a thin layer of electrical grease (NOT dielectric, chassis, thermal, conductive, or anti-seize or battery snot). If you have too many to stack there, run a SHORT heavy cable from the relay to a dedicated isolated binding post. This is an example, but there are plenty of other shapes & sizes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SLKK3NM/?tag=classicbroncos-20

(click this text)

 

[ba123]

NOTHING should be attached at the battery posts, except the 2 main 4ga cables. Certainly not those giant, heavy terminals with a dozen setscrews. The posts are already the leakiest points on the battery case - they don't need all that weight & leverage ripping them out, causing even more corrosion on even more wires.

The factory (& best) junction post is the hot side of the starter relay. The stack order of the rings should always be: starter solenoid (if using a later solenoid-type starter), alternator (if the output cable has a ring), B+, main output to dash/ig.sw./fuse block, then any other accessories, and the nut. Each ring should be clean to shiny metal, flat, and coated with a thin layer of electrical grease (NOT dielectric, chassis, thermal, conductive, or anti-seize or battery snot). If you have too many to stack there, run a SHORT heavy cable from the relay to a dedicated isolated binding post. This is an example, but there are plenty of other shapes & sizes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SLKK3NM/?tag=classicbroncos-20

(click this text)

Yeah, I was just starting to rethink that…might not look good anyway. Not really worried about the posts, since the battery I’m going with doesn’t have them (those blocks bolt in), but still…

 

[Steve83]

Side-terminal batteries are even leakier than top-posts. And you should never use bolts on side-terminals; use a stud threaded all the way in, then run a nut down.

(click this text)

 

[ba123]

Nope, not side terminal either. Here’s the battery I’m going with. Same company makes the terminal block I was considering. They go together with their own bolts.