My electrical system just stopped charging. There is a new alternator that I bench tested. It is hot. Not the problem. New battery. tested and okay. there is continuity between the alternator fuse and the key on wire that turns the alternator on. That wire is good. If it's not the alternator's ground, then does anybody have any ideas? The volts were 13.5 to 14 without charge when the alternator was working last week. It would drop to 12 under load. But now, it is 12 dropping below 10. New centech harness seems to be okay. I know this post might seem like a complete waste of time, but IF anybody has any notions, It would help and I'd try to chase it down. Thanks.
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electrical system not charging.
- Thread starter uncut
- Start date
the alternator is a g-3, 200 amp, with internal regulator. it has a harness with 3 wires- green key on, yellow and white, and the charge wire to the + battery terminal. (you knew that) I put it on the bench and it tested okay. I was told the regulator was ok.
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- Aug 23, 2007
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What's the voltage on the green wire? Also check all connections for looseness and corrosion especially ground cable on engine block.
RRRAAAYYY2
Bronco Guru
When you check, the green/red wire will/should have around 11-12volts on it with the key in the on position. The yellow wire should have exactly what is in the battery on it. The white wire will have nothing on it.
problem solved.
after pulling and testing the alternator, i found that the problem was my battery terminal. there was no lock nut on the bolt holding the charge wire and some corrosion had gotten into it when it slightly loosened. i didn't see it because it appeared tight from the top. thanks for helping.
after pulling and testing the alternator, i found that the problem was my battery terminal. there was no lock nut on the bolt holding the charge wire and some corrosion had gotten into it when it slightly loosened. i didn't see it because it appeared tight from the top. thanks for helping.
RRRAAAYYY2
Bronco Guru
Cool, got like the cheap fixes every now and then.
alternator decided not to charge
after about a week of good charging, it just stopped again. i don't think it's the alternator. the fuse is fine. the green is getting power. i think it is something in the wiring. when i load, the voltage drops at least 1-2 volts. Without tracing all of the wires, I'm not sure what can be done. Centec does not have a scematic for my generation harness. Having a pro look at it- any ideas or is this too vague. thanks.
ps. should have gone with ray's alternator. it would have been peace of mind. next time, for sure.
after about a week of good charging, it just stopped again. i don't think it's the alternator. the fuse is fine. the green is getting power. i think it is something in the wiring. when i load, the voltage drops at least 1-2 volts. Without tracing all of the wires, I'm not sure what can be done. Centec does not have a scematic for my generation harness. Having a pro look at it- any ideas or is this too vague. thanks.
ps. should have gone with ray's alternator. it would have been peace of mind. next time, for sure.
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- Nov 3, 2003
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How exactly do you have it wired? I see you have the main charge wire straight to the battery, as you should. Are you utilizing the Centech's large Yellow charge wires still anyway? Their large Red wire is to the battery's positive wire as well?
What voltage readings are you getting at the Green w/red and the Yellow wires at the alt? Where do you have the Yellow conncted? Is your White wire hooked to anything?
Could the corrosion on the output terminal of the alt have come back? That stuff has a way of doing just that. Also, could the reistance and erratic connection there have caused an internal problem with the regulator?
Ray might know if that could be a problem. I think he's said before that these things are semi-sensetive to this kind of thing.
Paul
What voltage readings are you getting at the Green w/red and the Yellow wires at the alt? Where do you have the Yellow conncted? Is your White wire hooked to anything?
Could the corrosion on the output terminal of the alt have come back? That stuff has a way of doing just that. Also, could the reistance and erratic connection there have caused an internal problem with the regulator?
Ray might know if that could be a problem. I think he's said before that these things are semi-sensetive to this kind of thing.
Paul
wiring
Thanks for taking an interest, Paul.
The yellow wire is taped off and not being used.
I got it charging by replacing the charge wire from the alt to the +. Apparently, it wasn't making good enough contact. I replaced it with a thick wire, but probably only 10 guage- hoping that is good enough- every one seems to go with the monster charge wires but i HAD to get this running today.
It charges like it should until I load it. I put the A/C on at 2200 rpm, no problem. I put the lights on on top of that, no problem. I drop below 1500 rpm and the volts drop from 14 to 11. I start it without A/C and lights, 14.5. I click on the A/C, it drops to 11.5 at idle. revving won't restore the Volts.
I hear a clicking behing the dash, like one of the relays is triggered at that level of voltage. It sounds like a short. But, I am not convinced that the G-3 is wired properly, or that the the alternator is somehow malfunctioning. I have had it on 2 benches that says it is ok. In my mind, it could be a wiring issue or a short. But I don't know jack.
Thanks for taking an interest, Paul.
The yellow wire is taped off and not being used.
I got it charging by replacing the charge wire from the alt to the +. Apparently, it wasn't making good enough contact. I replaced it with a thick wire, but probably only 10 guage- hoping that is good enough- every one seems to go with the monster charge wires but i HAD to get this running today.
It charges like it should until I load it. I put the A/C on at 2200 rpm, no problem. I put the lights on on top of that, no problem. I drop below 1500 rpm and the volts drop from 14 to 11. I start it without A/C and lights, 14.5. I click on the A/C, it drops to 11.5 at idle. revving won't restore the Volts.
I hear a clicking behing the dash, like one of the relays is triggered at that level of voltage. It sounds like a short. But, I am not convinced that the G-3 is wired properly, or that the the alternator is somehow malfunctioning. I have had it on 2 benches that says it is ok. In my mind, it could be a wiring issue or a short. But I don't know jack.
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Have you ever checked the voltage on the green, yellow and white wires? Do it with it charging at 14v, again when charging at 11v, and with key on engine off.
Ryan
Sr. Member
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You could also be introducing a little too much resistance under higher charge rates with that little charge wire. I don't know if that would freak out an alternator or not though. I would think it's more likely to just melt the wire if it gets too much resisitance. Not cause the alternator to give goofy readings.
But then again... It IS a Bronco after all. So you never know.
And yes, you're correct in thinking that 10 ga is good enough to get you by, for a short time at least, with that short of length. It wouldn't be near enough wire gauge to run a long distance, but for 2 feet or less it should get you home in a pinch. I wouldn't run it too long that way though.
The problem comes if your alt is trying to put out it's full potential amperage. That wire would get awful hot I would think. You might try feeling to see if it's hot while running a load.
The reason others use such a big wire is basically safety. It's overkill a lot of times, but it's easy, inexpensive and they can do it. So why not.
You should too at some point.
It just cheap insurance.
Paul
ps: Hey Ryan! Good to see you again. Thanks for posting the diagram too. Good way to double-check.
But then again... It IS a Bronco after all. So you never know.
And yes, you're correct in thinking that 10 ga is good enough to get you by, for a short time at least, with that short of length. It wouldn't be near enough wire gauge to run a long distance, but for 2 feet or less it should get you home in a pinch. I wouldn't run it too long that way though.
The problem comes if your alt is trying to put out it's full potential amperage. That wire would get awful hot I would think. You might try feeling to see if it's hot while running a load.
The reason others use such a big wire is basically safety. It's overkill a lot of times, but it's easy, inexpensive and they can do it. So why not.
You should too at some point.
It just cheap insurance.
Paul
ps: Hey Ryan! Good to see you again. Thanks for posting the diagram too. Good way to double-check.
update
first, wanted to thank everyone who tried to help out.
the status is that the long adjustment bracket clipped the g3 alternator enough to inhibit the full travel in the down position (a/c compressor takes the up position). I put 2 washers b/t the front of the alternator and the bracket and that is just enough to get full travel.
but, it only charges 14 w/o lights and a/c. if I put on the lights, its fine till I idle, then it goes to 12.5 and stays there till I put out the lights.
My next move is to make sure the red wire that goes through the ammeter ring is not connected. The ammeter is not working, but I have a suspicion about the wire.
my learning curve is too slow, and I don't have the equipment, to do this fast. But, I am trying to work it in and enjoying the process. Thanks again for your help.
first, wanted to thank everyone who tried to help out.
the status is that the long adjustment bracket clipped the g3 alternator enough to inhibit the full travel in the down position (a/c compressor takes the up position). I put 2 washers b/t the front of the alternator and the bracket and that is just enough to get full travel.
but, it only charges 14 w/o lights and a/c. if I put on the lights, its fine till I idle, then it goes to 12.5 and stays there till I put out the lights.
My next move is to make sure the red wire that goes through the ammeter ring is not connected. The ammeter is not working, but I have a suspicion about the wire.
my learning curve is too slow, and I don't have the equipment, to do this fast. But, I am trying to work it in and enjoying the process. Thanks again for your help.
RRRAAAYYY2
Bronco Guru
I think you are dropping off at idle because you have moved outside of the alternators operating range. That happens a lot when you get into the higher output units. As the bigger guage wires in the stator also move the operating range up (why we use double/triple wound stators, x2 the cost, but better at idle performance).
Might try a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed it up a bit. Or turn your idle up.
Might try a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed it up a bit. Or turn your idle up.
The Solution Was The Belt Set Up
PROBLEM FIXED-
THANK YOU ALL! THANK YOU AGAIN! I COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU.
the charge belt went from the crank to the alt to the a/c comp to the fan and this only wrapped the 200a alt 20%. it was slipping and i couldn't tell. no one believed that this was a problem. on a whim, i changed the belt config, dropping the a/c out of the loop and put the a/c on the other belt instead of the fan. i don't think the two belts on the fan made any diff, right? it is the fully wrapped alt pulley that will now spin through the resistance with my a/c and lights on.
what a pain. sure glad that's over. on to the radio install. "in my mind i've gone to carolina!"
PROBLEM FIXED-
THANK YOU ALL! THANK YOU AGAIN! I COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU.
the charge belt went from the crank to the alt to the a/c comp to the fan and this only wrapped the 200a alt 20%. it was slipping and i couldn't tell. no one believed that this was a problem. on a whim, i changed the belt config, dropping the a/c out of the loop and put the a/c on the other belt instead of the fan. i don't think the two belts on the fan made any diff, right? it is the fully wrapped alt pulley that will now spin through the resistance with my a/c and lights on.
what a pain. sure glad that's over. on to the radio install. "in my mind i've gone to carolina!"
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