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3 Arm Wiper Setup
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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electrical question from the guy who knows nothing about his electrical system
- Thread starter tabyers
- Start date
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- Nov 3, 2003
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As Skiddy said, you won't get a new one with your harness, but most harnesses come with the new wiring to replace the old for the regulator. Your new regulator could come from the local auto parts stores, or maybe even wherever you're getting your harness.
It'll look more like this (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Heavy_Duty_Voltage_Regulator/Bronco_Starters) than the one in your pic of course, but functionally it's the same.
But if you're upgrading your alternator to a newer style with an internal regulator, you won't need a new external one at all. So both ways are options.
The dimming lights with lower rpm, and the brightening with higher rpm "can" be the regulator, but it could also be a sign of an old tired or weak alternator, OR based on the looks of your wiring in the pic, some old tired wires and their connections.
Lots of reasons it would do this, but weak output of the alternator at idle is the reason. It's just up to you to find out why it's weak at idle.
Or, just to confuse things further, perhaps the other wires (unrelated to the charging system) are so old and tired, that even a good performing alternator isn't getting the power to the lights!
The new wire harness is going to help a LOT of this other stuff though.
Paul
It'll look more like this (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Heavy_Duty_Voltage_Regulator/Bronco_Starters) than the one in your pic of course, but functionally it's the same.
But if you're upgrading your alternator to a newer style with an internal regulator, you won't need a new external one at all. So both ways are options.
The dimming lights with lower rpm, and the brightening with higher rpm "can" be the regulator, but it could also be a sign of an old tired or weak alternator, OR based on the looks of your wiring in the pic, some old tired wires and their connections.
Lots of reasons it would do this, but weak output of the alternator at idle is the reason. It's just up to you to find out why it's weak at idle.
Or, just to confuse things further, perhaps the other wires (unrelated to the charging system) are so old and tired, that even a good performing alternator isn't getting the power to the lights!
The new wire harness is going to help a LOT of this other stuff though.
Paul
Yup, you pegged me on the ancient sinking ship wiring. I just have this one more summer in the sun to get the mechanicals just right and then frame off saving/spending spree begins so I guess I won't worry about it until I get a new harness and see what I need from there.
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Well if you still want to mess with it and try to at least make it better, you can still have the alternator tested if you happen to have it off for whatever reason. That way you can take it in to the parts store and see what it's putting out.
Then you can check the wiring there at the regulator. Pull the plug and measure the voltage on the wires:
1. Yellow wire should have the same voltage as the battery at all times (key on OR off)
2. Green w/red wire should have battery voltage with the key in RUN only.
3. Orange wire you won't measure voltage, but you want to make sure it's got a good clean connection between the regulator and the alternator.
On the first two, if there is more than a 1/2 volt less than you measure at the battery, your wiring is suspect.
Those are just the easy ones. Most other methods involve replacing the wires or connectors to get them up to snuff, or replacing the alternator or regulator if they're not up to snuff.
Without even looking like it, a regulator can be totally rusted out on the backside facing the sheet metal. Depending on the climate, this is actually fairly common. Less so in parts of the desert southwest of course, but still possible.
If it's rusty enough, it's not going to work properly. If it's not bolted solidly to the body at clean holes with clean screws, it might not be working properly.
Just don't unbolt it with the harness still connected, or at least with the battery disconnected first. You don't want power to either of those two wires unless it's fully grounded.
Good luck.
Paul
Then you can check the wiring there at the regulator. Pull the plug and measure the voltage on the wires:
1. Yellow wire should have the same voltage as the battery at all times (key on OR off)
2. Green w/red wire should have battery voltage with the key in RUN only.
3. Orange wire you won't measure voltage, but you want to make sure it's got a good clean connection between the regulator and the alternator.
On the first two, if there is more than a 1/2 volt less than you measure at the battery, your wiring is suspect.
Those are just the easy ones. Most other methods involve replacing the wires or connectors to get them up to snuff, or replacing the alternator or regulator if they're not up to snuff.
Without even looking like it, a regulator can be totally rusted out on the backside facing the sheet metal. Depending on the climate, this is actually fairly common. Less so in parts of the desert southwest of course, but still possible.
If it's rusty enough, it's not going to work properly. If it's not bolted solidly to the body at clean holes with clean screws, it might not be working properly.
Just don't unbolt it with the harness still connected, or at least with the battery disconnected first. You don't want power to either of those two wires unless it's fully grounded.
Good luck.
Paul
charlie6976
Sr. Member
...I think you're dealing with an old/out dated system like many from the older days that did not put out enough electrical power at idle to keep things going strong. My heater motor, head lights, etc. all dim at idle. My solution was/is to update. Look for an alternator that puts out more amps at idle (my new one is WH 90 amp at idle). Use accessories that draw less power. LED head lights are a way to go.
Like DirtDonk said, weak out put from your alternator. Check the out put at idle. A weak out put might be all your alternator ever had at idle (compare its stated output at idle).
...on a side note. Isn't there a procedure for setting the idle (head lights on, difference for standard vs automatic trans.)?
Like DirtDonk said, weak out put from your alternator. Check the out put at idle. A weak out put might be all your alternator ever had at idle (compare its stated output at idle).
...on a side note. Isn't there a procedure for setting the idle (head lights on, difference for standard vs automatic trans.)?
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There probably is that procedure, but I've never even bothered. Most of the Bronco service books lay out the basic idle settings without any extra load or taking into account the alternator's output. But in deeper procedures, probably included in the factory manuals, they likely talk about such stuff. Especially when setting up a commercially used vehicle.
Not a bad idea either, as long as it doesn't negative effect other things like run-on/dieseling and that kind of stuff.
But like you said, older stuff, including the wiring and connections with potentially more resistance than they left the factory with, might just be contributing to the weakness.
Paul
Not a bad idea either, as long as it doesn't negative effect other things like run-on/dieseling and that kind of stuff.
But like you said, older stuff, including the wiring and connections with potentially more resistance than they left the factory with, might just be contributing to the weakness.
Paul
